Grease on ABS sensor

adam koronka · Jul 5, 2021

Hi, please forgive my ignorance. I am here to share all that I don't know! When you remove the ABS sensor should there be grease on the end of it or down the aperture ?

Thanks

Adam

lynall · Jul 5, 2021

A little grease applied to the outside when fititing will prevent it siezing solid in the aperture, if the grease is all over the area then you have another issue, wheel seal/brakes etc.

adam koronka · Jul 5, 2021

lynall said:
A little grease applied to the outside when fititing will prevent it siezing solid in the aperture, if the grease is all over the area then you have another issue, wheel seal/brakes etc.

Thanks for your reply. It is a new hub but I have been having problems since fitting it. The traction control binds the brake on that wheel. No faults shown with the Hawkeye. But in the hole where the sensor sits there is a lot of new looking grease, so I am wondering if it is bleeding in from somewhere (faulty hub) and it is this that is confusing my traction control's brain ( and my brain too)

sierrafery · Jul 6, 2021

adam koronka said:
Thanks for your reply. It is a new hub but I have been having problems since fitting it. The traction control binds the brake on that wheel. No faults shown with the Hawkeye. But in the hole where the sensor sits there is a lot of new looking grease, so I am wondering if it is bleeding in from somewhere (faulty hub) and it is this that is confusing my traction control's brain ( and my brain too)

It happens with cheap hubs also they used to have the wrong number of teeth on the reluctor ring that's why they trigger the TC as the input is different than the others at the same wheel speed while it passes the stationary system self test so no codes.

Stanleysteamer · Jul 6, 2021

sierrafery said:
It happens with cheap hubs also they used to have the wrong number of teeth on the reluctor ring that's why they trigger the TC as the input is different than the others at the same wheel speed while it passes the stationary system self test so no codes.

you'd think by now these cheap hubs would all have been sussed and they'd be off the market.

Stanleysteamer · Jul 6, 2021

Well, just been out, (in the drizzle) and jacked both rear wheels up, offside span just fine so dropped it down but totherun had a bit of friction, so tooked the wheel off and, sho nuff, one pad looks pristine and tother, typically the ione you can't see without doing this, ain't there! Well more or less.
So I have either a sticky caliper or a sticky piston.
So I fink I might try an order some new pads on line.

Or else go to Leclerc Auto, who won't have them on the shelf and see how quick they can get em.
Else it's a 40 mile round trip to Rob the specialist who'll have em in stock.
Typical this happens when Wifey wants to do a big shop on Thursday and yes tis the only day she can do it as it is "market day" in the local Ville.
Last time we come with only one car! GRRRRR!

Trouble is both of drive so lightly on our brakes. This tends to happen to us. Need to hammer em a bit more to keep pistons and slider moving!

Oh, and while under there discovered the rear axle, nearside has started to leak oil.
Never thort I'd be doing this much mechanicing so close to arriving here!!

lynall · Jul 6, 2021

Stanleysteamer said:
Well, just been out, (in the drizzle) and jacked both rear wheels up, offside span just fine so dropped it down but totherun had a bit of friction, so tooked the wheel off and, sho nuff, one pad looks pristine and tother, typically the ione you can't see without doing this, ain't there! Well more or less.
So I have either a sticky caliper or a sticky piston.
So I fink I might try an order some new pads on line.
Or else go to Leclerc Auto, who won't have them on the shelf and see how quick they can get em.
Else it's a 40 mile round trip to Rob the specialist who'll have em in stock.
Typical this happens when Wifey wants to do a big shop on Thursday and yes tis the only day she can do it as it is "market day" in the local Ville.
Last time we come with only one car! GRRRRR!
Trouble is both of drive so lightly on our brakes. This tends to happen to us. Need to hammer em a bit more to keep pistons and slider moving!

What I do with my lightly used defender, is once a year jack wheel, remove wheel and pads push pictons back in, grease pad contact points and refit pads and wheels.
Early land rover calipers are crap as the pistons have no dust boots.

adam koronka · Jul 6, 2021

Stanleysteamer said:
Well, just been out, (in the drizzle) and jacked both rear wheels up, offside span just fine so dropped it down but totherun had a bit of friction, so tooked the wheel off and, sho nuff, one pad looks pristine and tother, typically the ione you can't see without doing this, ain't there! Well more or less.
So I have either a sticky caliper or a sticky piston.
So I fink I might try an order some new pads on line.
Or else go to Leclerc Auto, who won't have them on the shelf and see how quick they can get em.
Else it's a 40 mile round trip to Rob the specialist who'll have em in stock.
Typical this happens when Wifey wants to do a big shop on Thursday and yes tis the only day she can do it as it is "market day" in the local Ville.
Last time we come with only one car! GRRRRR!
Trouble is both of drive so lightly on our brakes. This tends to happen to us. Need to hammer em a bit more to keep pistons and slider moving!

Oh, and while under there discovered the rear axle, nearside has started to leak oil.
Never thort I'd be doing this much mechanicing so close to arriving here!!

Good luck !

adam koronka · Jul 6, 2021

Stanleysteamer said:
you'd think by now these cheap hubs would all have been sussed and they'd be off the market.

You would have thought so, yes. I am having to now replace both hubs (which I have already changed) to ensure they match !

Stanleysteamer · Jul 6, 2021

adam koronka said:
You would have thought so, yes. I am having to now replace both hubs (which I have already changed) to ensure they match !

I wouldn't go that far, I'd count the teeth on the reluctor ring(s) and just replace the one with the wrong number on.
If you find they both have the right number on and that they match the number of teeth on the rear ones then that isn't the problem.
You haven't said whether or not you get the "3 amigo" lights on.
It isn't recommended to remove the sensor from its hole when you get a hub, as the distance between the tip of it and the reluctor ring is really critical. And you can change a hub without removing the sensor, even on the front, I have done both ends of the vehicle, following this advice on here, and it is possible, and I have had no more trouble with sensors etc.
Also "grease", from where? As all lubrication to do with the axle is axle oil unless someone else knows different. So any you find must have been used by someone mucking around with the sensor. Unless someone has used a ton of grease on the callipers or something.
i may be confused and maybe you are just asking if some should be used as you have taken yours off.
Best of luck with it all anyway!

adam koronka · Jul 7, 2021

Stanleysteamer said:
I wouldn't go that far, I'd count the teeth on the reluctor ring(s) and just replace the one with the wrong number on.
If you find they both have the right number on and that they match the number of teeth on the rear ones then that isn't the problem.
You haven't said whether or not you get the "3 amigo" lights on.
It isn't recommended to remove the sensor from its hole when you get a hub, as the distance between the tip of it and the reluctor ring is really critical. And you can change a hub without removing the sensor, even on the front, I have done both ends of the vehicle, following this advice on here, and it is possible, and I have had no more trouble with sensors etc.
Also "grease", from where? As all lubrication to do with the axle is axle oil unless someone else knows different. So any you find must have been used by someone mucking around with the sensor. Unless someone has used a ton of grease on the callipers or something.
i may be confused and maybe you are just asking if some should be used as you have taken yours off.
Best of luck with it all anyway!

Thank you very much for taking the time for your reply - you are right - it is essential that the sensors aren't removed during fitting. I had to as the new sensor was duff, but the replacement wasn't being read for one reason or another. With the bearing replaced and the new sensor left well alone the system worked without even needing to be dialled in with the Hawkeye. I will feed back on my original thread just in case anyone else finds themselves in the same situation, but thanks again all of you for your input.

Cheers

Adam

Grease on ABS sensor

adam koronka

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lynall

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adam koronka

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sierrafery

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Stanleysteamer

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Stanleysteamer

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lynall

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adam koronka

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adam koronka

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Stanleysteamer

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adam koronka

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