Got myself a 110,

chris123321 said:

Yes, the brakes did require a rather large amount of fluid to breath!

So I've only got the rest of it to fix now.

Considering a 200tdi conversion, but I can't do it myself. Can anyone recommend a garage in Inverness area that could supply/fit

Cheers

Click to expand...

any reason why you can't do it yourself?

It's beyond me mechanically (I believe weldings also involved for the radiator frame?), I don't have a place to take apart a disco, quite a few reasons.

It'd really just be a better idea to get someone else to do it!

chris123321 said:

It's beyond me mechanically (I believe weldings also involved for the radiator frame?), I don't have a place to take apart a disco, quite a few reasons.

It'd really just be a better idea to get someone else to do it!

Click to expand...

ah rightio. has the rad not been welded already or is the 200 setup sifferent. i thought they were roughly the same dimensions.

just swapping the engine out is easy. sounds daunting, but it's really not bad at all.

you'd need a crane though

I was reading a guide where the radiator mounts needed to be cut off and lowered, not sure if thats 100% though?

It is daunting! I'm more concerned with not having all the bits, I am trying to find a breakers that'll do the whole lot on a pallet, every last bit I'd need.

Cheers for the help,

Chris

chris123321 said:

It's beyond me mechanically (I believe weldings also involved for the radiator frame?), I don't have a place to take apart a disco, quite a few reasons.

It'd really just be a better idea to get someone else to do it!

Click to expand...

Plenty of threads on doing this conversion - I even had a go myself a couple of years back. Yes, a donor vehicle makes life a little easier, when you discover you forgot to remove a part that you later need, but if space is a problem it is possible to buy just the 200tdi and then order the various other aspects as you go. The rad mounts do need lowering, and welding is involved, but there is probably someone in the IV area that could help you out. Otherwise it is just blood sweat and tears!
Failing all that... there is a garage down the lane opposite Wine World in Harbour Road that might be able to assist you.....

Have fun!!

May have found myself a decent 200tdi locally actually!

Spoke to soon on the brakes, they have gone spongy again. I've been using the sequence in the Haynes manual of left rear, right rear, right front, left front. Is this whats cocking it up?

Gonna have to buy some more brake fluid now this has taken so much!

Heres an odd question; my landy has a hand throttle, was this only fitted to MOD chonkers? Vehicle shows no other signs of being an ex mod wagon!

chris123321 said:

Heres an odd question; my landy has a hand throttle, was this only fitted to MOD chonkers? Vehicle shows no other signs of being an ex mod wagon!

Click to expand...

No jate rings? Or convoy lights?

Hand throttles tend to be a sign of a military background, but not exclusively. I'm told it was so you could leave the engine running at a particular speed so it could push out enough alternator power to drive the radio transmitter.

Re: the brakes. A lot of air can hide in a Land Rover's pipework so be prepared to do them a few times. Maybe let it settle overnight and bleed again the following day too. I'm glad I have a pressure bleeder.

don't some people hand throttle for the winch too?

Nope, nothing but a hand throttle. Sanded back the bonnet and that was matt sand colour underneath but I'm putting that down to a second hand bonnet.

Yeh seems to be a small airlock still floating around, rears its head after a drive of 10 minutes or so without touching the brakes.

cheers for the help.

Heres something boggling me,

With the brake bleeding, it's beyond a "theres still air in the system" problem now.

The brakes will bleed fine with a firm pedal, then after a 20 or so minute drive without braking, the pedal will go straight to the floor. it will then pump up just fine after that.

Is this a dodgy master cylinder or have I possibly damaged it when installing it by having the pedal all the way to the floor during bleeding?

Or is there really somehow...by some amazement...air in the system?

chris123321 said:

Heres something boggling me,

With the brake bleeding, it's beyond a "theres still air in the system" problem now.

The brakes will bleed fine with a firm pedal, then after a 20 or so minute drive without braking, the pedal will go straight to the floor. it will then pump up just fine after that.

Is this a dodgy master cylinder or have I possibly damaged it when installing it by having the pedal all the way to the floor during bleeding?

Or is there really somehow...by some amazement...air in the system?

Click to expand...

Is the fluid blackish in colour?

Is there a 'splashback' in the master cylinder when the pedal is pressed and released ?

Fluid isn't blackish at all,

There is some splashback when pedal is released though? Can see it on top of the master cylinder.

chris123321 said:

Fluid isn't blackish at all,

There is some splashback when pedal is released though? Can see it on top of the master cylinder.

Click to expand...

Probably master cylinder seals then ...

Well that's just dandy. Brand new master cylinder....

Rebuild kits arn't too expensive, might have a crack at fixing the old one that came off.

chris123321 said:

Well that's just dandy. Brand new master cylinder....

Rebuild kits arn't too expensive, might have a crack at fixing the old one that came off.

Click to expand...

Not unheard of for a new one to be pants, remember to push pedal slowly, fast pedal feck seals ...

Any chance of blagging a known good one for a test ?

Unfortunately no, I've emailed the guys I bought it from asking if I can send it back as defective, as it is apparently under a 12 month warranty.

So if fluid is splashing back into the master cylinder, thats the seals knackered?

cheers for the help.

New master cylinder ordered, lets see how this goes then

cheers for the advice.

This gets stranger each day,

So today, I took it for a 100 mile drive, When your up to 50mph, you hit the brake, feel nothing but the secondary servo at the bottom of the pedal as if the master cylinder is knackered. Then you can pump up the pedal to get full braking force as if there is an airlock.

it is as if the problem only occurs after getting up to a reasonable speed and even then its as if it's air in the system combined with a master cylinder that doesn't like going at speed!

Bloody thing.