Glowplugs wired in parallel

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westone

Active Member
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415
Location
West country
Still working through my Series 3 with its 200tdi engine.
I am looking at replacing the glow plugs with new ones and have read its best change them to the newer types this correct please?

all i have is the wires on the plugs,no switch,no relay,no ballast resistor,the wiring is very messy.

I have tried to find a kit of plugs but they seem elusive for the 200tdi,I assume they would be metric. Bearmach do one called DA1057 for the 2.25 engine, but assume that would be imperial thread.

Has anyone done this please and can recommend a kit? THANKS.
 
You need to be looking in the disco or defender section of websites to find 200tdi glow plugs. Are you sure you even need to replace them? Its unusual for a 200tdi to need them to start, even below zero. A lot of conversions don't even bother hooking them up.
 
I'm sure the tdi experts will have all the answers, but a quick look at the Defender parts book shows the glow plugs as ETC8847. They're wired in parallel and powered via the glow plug timer PRC6913. There are some wiring instructions on the Glencoyne website:
http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di2.htm
The ballast resistor isn't used with the parallel-wired glow plugs. Ideally you would use the timer and the wiring from the donor Disco but shouldn't be too complex to make a replacement harness if needed.
 
The glow plug system on my 2.5n/a series 3 used the relay and all the associated wiring straight from an old disco. Just wire it all up to a toggle switch and roberts yer muthas brother.
 
Thanks very much gents,I have been told you do not need them and it will start, but as they were on the engine and am working through the wires i thought i would do it.
I will check out the Disco ones...big thank you all for your help again.
 
If the plugs work then leave them be do not change them. They may have been in the engine a long time and can become stuck. Removing them can result in the tip snapping off. [ there are some fun ways of getting them out ] I recommend they be left until the time the head needs to come off for something else . Test in place and even if one is dead the others can still work. [ even with a 200 you get better starting in the freezing weather ]
 
If you're converting a diesel, the easiest way is use the original key-operated glow plug control. Discard the ballast resistor and wire them directly to the wire from the key. Alternatively use a 70A relay to take the load off the switch itself.
 
Thanks i just have a standard ignition switch, its not for a diesel I do not think.I have a 70 amp relay and thought could just operate it from a toggle switch.
Any suggestions on how to wire it up please?
 
Put a discovery timer relay on mine powered from ignition live then turns off after time.
 

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Thank you I will go this way,I took my lower dash out today in preparation and was shocked its just a sheet of rust with tons of fillers will have to hunt for another, its virtually filler and fibreglass and the heater controls are all corroded....keep me busy!
 
I have ordered my relay a genuine Land rover one and I understand the glow plugs need to be wired in parallel?,But looking at my engine i think they are in series at the moment which is wrong or am i wrong.

I thought parallel meant wire direct to each, so if one plug breaks it will still work.

Should it be wired like this picture please? or do i need to change it.
 

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Thanks for the information.

I have a pile of pattern parts and so now avoid them as many are rubbish, my latest was vent rubbers made by Britpart which are 15mm.. bigger than the opening.!
Although more expensive,I am going to stick to Land Rover bits if I can get them and afford them
 
Hello,
can i ask what size cable and fuse i use? please.
The glow plugs have 3.5mm cable on them and i thought if i used 50amp,4.1mm did meter it would be okay.
I saw on the diagram an inline fuse which i missed originally.
thank you
 
According to Blackburn's diagram, each glowplug draws about 6 Amps, so 24 Amps for all 4. So your 50A cable would be fine. The fuse rating isn't shown on the diagram, but something rated about 40A should be ok to protect the cable and the plugs if there was a short.
It might seem like a good idea to use a 25A fuse, but the plugs may well draw more than 6A each when they're cold, so there could be a brief surge of more than 24A while they heat up - I'm sure the tdi drivers will know more.
 
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