P38A Glow plug connector corroded

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EntropyUK

Well-Known Member
Posts
467
Location
Hemel Hempsted
Today has become a real PITA. As the starter was playing up and starting was difficult I decided to change the glow plugs and starter. I think I found why is was difficult to start (starter issue aside) as the wiring for connector of the most forward glow plug had completely corroded away i.e. no power to the plug.

How do fix this? There's no play in the wiring so it looks like fitting a new connector is nigh on impossible. Any ideas?
 
EntropyUK said:
Today has become a real PITA. As the starter was playing up and starting was difficult I decided to change the glow plugs and starter. I think I found why is was difficult to start (starter issue aside) as the wiring for connector of the most forward glow plug had completely corroded away i.e. no power to the plug.

How do fix this? There's no play in the wiring so it looks like fitting a new connector is nigh on impossible. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Extend the wire and fit a new connector or get a new loom.
 
Thanks Tomcat. Thinking that I can crimp a new connector into the existing wire, however its going to be a pig to do given the lack of extra wire available. I think I will almost need to clamp it so I can work on it. Doable but difficult.
 
If there isn't enough wire to join to then you'll need to remove the intake manifold and injector lines to get to the harness trunking which runs along the block under the glow plugs. Remove the cover to access the loom (or jumble of wires in mine).

Given the current and the season I would solder whatever connector I used. These are handy if you need to extend a wire, saves some of the faff:
Heat Shrink Solder Connectors
 
Rave refers to the use of an anti seize compound when replacing the glow plugs. Any recommendations? Also where can I get a hooped crimp connector that can manage the current used? I only have a Draper crimping set and think the current will melt the connectors supplied in the kit.
 
I've done a couple of these for the same reason. I inherited a dodgy one with the car that came off first time I checked the plugs. I've done a second since as the guys above suggest - a crimp and solder - it is very tight with only about an inch of reluctant cable accessible outside the trunking. I used an ordinary round crimp terminal and it seems to have survived. The dipstick is handy for a drop of oil on the new glow plug thread.
 
Speedex750 said:
I've done a couple of these for the same reason. I inherited a dodgy one with the car that came off first time I checked the plugs. I've done a second since as the guys above suggest - a crimp and solder - it is very tight with only about an inch of reluctant cable accessible outside the trunking. I used an ordinary round crimp terminal and it seems to have survived. The dipstick is handy for a drop of oil on the new glow plug thread.
Click to expand...

Engine oil can hardly be regarded as anti seize compound.
 
No; it's not sold as such - but better than putting them in dry if you've nothing else to hand. I suspect Copaslip etc is more angled towards steel on steel threads, nuts and bolts etc. With the aluminium head its as much to deter corrosion as it is for long life lubrication.
 
Speedex750 said:
No; it's not sold as such - but better than putting them in dry if you've nothing else to hand. I suspect Copaslip etc is more angled towards steel on steel threads, nuts and bolts etc. With the aluminium head its as much to deter corrosion as it is for long life lubrication.
Click to expand...

Copaslip is high temperature anti seize compound and is usable on all metals.
 
Not a fan of copaslip. Before I started working on my own cars, I would send my MX5 to the garage for brake pads... They kept greasing the sliders with Copaslip despite me telling them to use red grease. Every time after 6 months I have had to free the sliders as they were gummed up and seizing on the sliders.
 
EntropyUK said:
Not a fan of copaslip. Before I started working on my own cars, I would send my MX5 to the garage for brake pads... They kept greasing the sliders with Copaslip despite me telling them to use red grease. Every time after 6 months I have had to free the sliders as they were gummed up and seizing on the sliders.
Click to expand...

Red grease is for rubber seals not for lubricating metal parts. Copaslip is the correct grease for the sliders and metal to metal contact parts. It is seriously heat resistant and water proof.
 
Cera-tec should be used on brakes.

Copper grease will do in practice, as you say Wammers, but isn't compatible with ABS components, brake fluid, rubber seals and some wear indicators. It can often, as you rightly said Entropy, create a sticky mess that inhibits pad movement.

I think red grease is based on lithium grease.
 
RubyRR said:
Cera-tec should be used on brakes.

Copper grease will do in practice, as you say Wammers, but isn't compatible with ABS components, brake fluid, rubber seals and some wear indicators. It can often, as you rightly said Entropy, create a sticky mess that inhibits pad movement.

I think red grease is based on lithium grease.
Click to expand...

Please read what is written and not what you think is written. No one is suggesting using Copaslip on rubber seals or in contact with brake fluid. Cera-tec is ceramic based grease so is Copaslip. Copaslip is the standard grease used on metal to metal surfaces of brake components and has been for very many years. I think you maybe getting mixed up with the cheap and cheerful crap copper grease available everywhere. Copaslip is not cheap and does a specific job.
 
I have reconnected the battery after replacing the plugs... However forgot to tighten the negative terminal... Started engine with a click and a set of errors flashed up. Tightened terminal and all starting OK but now have 'rear L/H win ow not set' and a 'sunroof not set' error. How do I deal with these errors as all was working fine beforehand.
 
run the Windows and sunroof through there full movement or open window hold down switch then close and hold , you should then get window set.
 
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