Getting hot when towing

The aircon has never worked and the pressure is at 0 so it's definitely gonna be knackered and I really cannot be bothered to spend ages getting air con to work for the three days we'll need it!!!
So I've never seen the fans work, but I used your advice in a bother post about earthing the blue black lead to ground. Relays clicked but only the left fan came to life. Tested power supply to the other fan and 12v we're present but not working. It spins but catches when forced manually. It's just dead.
How do I run a definitive test of the viscous fan?

customknight said:

The aircon has never worked and the pressure is at 0 so it's definitely gonna be knackered and I really cannot be bothered to spend ages getting air con to work for the three days we'll need it!!!
So I've never seen the fans work, but I used your advice in a bother post about earthing the blue black lead to ground. Relays clicked but only the left fan came to life. Tested power supply to the other fan and 12v we're present but not working. It spins but catches when forced manually. It's just dead.
How do I run a definitive test of the viscous fan?

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I've read that some peeps have stuck a rolled up newspaper in the fan when running, and if it stops the fan you need a new coupling. If it destroys the newspaper, rips your fingers off and breaks the blades off the fan, then the coupling is good.
Never really fancied this test so I replaced mine when I fitted a new water pump.
Check that it hasn't got 'Britpart' stamped on it. If it has, change it for a decent quality one.

kevwill said:

I've read that some peeps have stuck a rolled up newspaper in the fan when running, and if it stops the fan you need a new coupling. If it destroys the newspaper, rips your fingers off and breaks the blades off the fan, then the coupling is good.
Never really fancied this test so I replaced mine when I fitted a new water pump.
Check that it hasn't got 'Britpart' stamped on it. If it has, change it for a decent quality one.

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Less dangerous method by Wammers in the how to section.

I've done the news paper test quite a few times and with care/attention it's good.

customknight said:

The aircon has never worked and the pressure is at 0 so it's definitely gonna be knackered and I really cannot be bothered to spend ages getting air con to work for the three days we'll need it!!!
So I've never seen the fans work, but I used your advice in a bother post about earthing the blue black lead to ground. Relays clicked but only the left fan came to life. Tested power supply to the other fan and 12v we're present but not working. It spins but catches when forced manually. It's just dead.
How do I run a definitive test of the viscous fan?

Click to expand...

Left condensor fan motor has a permanent 12 volts, the other a permanent ground, relay 13 operates the left fan motor either direct to earth if operated or via relay 18 if not operated when it will also go via relay 14 not operated and the right fan motor to give half speed. Relay 14 operated runs the right fan motor by applying 12 volts direct to it. See section K4 pages 11 and 12 of RAVE.
Air con is useful all year round as it keep the interior dry and the windows free of mist in almost all weathers which helps protect the BECM and various connectors from corrosion.

kevwill said:

When you press the AIR CON OFF button (light on) the air con is off. Does exactly what it says on the tin.
So when the engine overheats, your not losing any coolant from the expansion tank overflow, and the system isn't overpressurising??

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I think the P38 is the only car in the world that has a button that lights up when it's turned off and not on!

I used to fire up the twin fans on my old p38 using a kenlowe fan controller about £40

stjohnsmythe said:

I think the P38 is the only car in the world that has a button that lights up when it's turned off and not on!

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latest Renault Scenic (and so I assume other new renaults) also do this

Is there any way to test the thermostat. I mean other than the put in a pan test. It's obviously working in that regard as it's opening and all the pipes are getting hot.
With regard to the rad; new one or attempt to de scum the old one?

customknight said:

Is there any way to test the thermostat. I mean other than the put in a pan test. It's obviously working in that regard as it's opening and all the pipes are getting hot.
With regard to the rad; new one or attempt to de scum the old one?

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New RAD is best, it's impossible to fully clean out the fine tubes on the LR RAD's.

wil2813 said:

I used to fire up the twin fans on my old p38 using a kenlowe fan controller about £40

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You can buy the same thing for £16 without the Kenlowe brand on it.

customknight said:

Is there any way to test the thermostat. I mean other than the put in a pan test. It's obviously working in that regard as it's opening and all the pipes are getting hot.
With regard to the rad; new one or attempt to de scum the old one?

Click to expand...

Unless you know the history age new rad as said always better I had same problem I don't mess about new water pump rad viscous thermostate two years later