Getting ****ed off

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Ah right.. doh, i see what you are doing now.. you are disconning every pos you can think of and then your shouldn't get any voltage at the battery.
 
Try this: set your multimeter to Mohms setting then measure from the battery negative terminal to a good clean connection point on your engine - let us know what reading you get ;)
 
Last edited:
gil said:
All fuses back in and have a reading of 0.05 (alarm system), so I take it its not a parasitic load
Click to expand...

doesn't sound like it.. assuming that nothing comes on later. I'm guessing it also starts up fine right now?
 
Last edited:
Right, what I'd do is.. with the battery still connected go and measure the volts, record the number. It should be around 12.06ish.. leave it overnight. Before you start it or anything else in the morning, go and measure it again in volts. Record the number.

In the morning. Leave the multi on. Turn all leccy stuff off, crank it and watch the multi. Record the number it dropped to. Don't keep cranking and cranking.

Also, do this

DEFENDER90-DAZ said:
Try this: set your multimeter to Mohms setting then measure from the battery negative terminal to a good clean connection point on your engine - let us know what reading you get ;)
Click to expand...

Give us all those numbers :)
 
Right, just check the voltage, 12.23. Dropped to 11.46 on cranking, rose to 14.19 when started.

The reading from the neg terminal to the engine is 0.03
 
Those numbers look ok to me - so you have a decent earth path from your battery to the engine - battery looks ok as it only dropped to 11.46 on cranking the starter - starter looks ok as its not dragging too much from the battery - the battery has dropped from 12.43 to 12.23 over night it will tend to stabilise after charging anyway.

Next test i'd do is turn everything off including ignition - remove the positive lead from the battery - select AMPS on your multimeter and the go from your positive terminal on the battery to the positive lead and tell us what reading you get ;)
 
Of course yu will still get 12V'ish if measuring between + and ground, irrespective of any fuses - you are measuring the VOLTAGE - ie the potential DIFFERENCE between + and ground, which will always be about that :doh:
 
Thats a bit of a drain that mate with everything switched off!

What i would do next: keep the multimeter connected between the positive terminal and positive lead and start pulling fuses - pull a fuse then check to see if the current draw lessens on the multimeter - if not replace the fuse and pull the next one - you are trying to find which circuit/circuits drawing the current ;)

Let us know how you get on ;)
 
Hold on, I got him to do a parasitic load test yesterday..

gil said:
All fuses back in and have a reading of 0.05 (alarm system), so I take it its not a parasitic load
Click to expand...

Make sure you haven't got an interior light on or something when you did the test this morning :)
 
So, to be clear, you left the battery connected last night and you used the same battery to start it up this morning, and it started fine?

If so then I'm thinking it is a loose connection or a bare wire somewhere that is shorting whenever it moves.

If that's correct, then you need to wait till it stops working again and then do the load test/ pull fuses, etc to identify the wire.
 
Read the batt drain thread in the FAQ section.

If yu had a drain of 0.05Amp, that equates to 0.6watts. Certainly not a 5W light!
More likely to be Electronics related.(BCU etc)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
P38 Alternator Fault
Replies
2
Views
466
Datatek
Datatek
dag019
Alternator failed - how to safely continue driving
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
tottot
tottot
U
Battery health testing
Replies
8
Views
1K
kermit_rr
kermit_rr
L
Disco 4 (LR4) battery light on
Replies
9
Views
1K
Graculus
Graculus
P7XES
Discovery 4 wont start click
Replies
9
Views
1K
yfo866
yfo866
Back
Top