Gearbox help please - this is driving me mental!

The hub itself feels tight in terms of its own clutch mechanism and yup it feels tight in the springs - but I can move the whole unit up and down the mainshaft which concerns me slightly.

it does ,which doent matter as long as it goes completely in to gear when selected,you have got shim on inputshaft bearing not been fuuny its easy to miss stuff

Right, so thats normal then for that to have play! Yeah it does seem to fully engage but dont know really how more I can test that other than just that it seems to!

Yup deffo have a shim on the input shaft - went outside and checked just incase!

i would still fit new rtc956 springs then box it up and set selector

Cheers I think you are right it does make sense to do it regardless as the box is out - RTC1956 added to the list!

Infact...I did change the detent springs before in January on the old syncro before I replaced the whole when I suspected that might be the problem (didnt cure it obviously) But still going to put new springs on this new syncro.

Well, changed those bits and it now seems to be fine - drove 40 miles and did not pop out of gear at all (it would normally do it every 5/10 miles)

It now a seems a bit difficult to get into first for some reason, but oh well!

sorry might be too late but did you put the 3/4 hub in the correct way. It does have a front and back.

Already resolved but thanks anyway

rebuilt my own gearbox and its a pain in the ass to do.

It is a bit But I reckon when you have done it once, next time becomes much easier! I had my box out 4 times, lol!

And genuine parts...get them if you can afford them!

rustyrhinos said:

It is a bit But I reckon when you have done it once, next time becomes much easier! I had my box out 4 times, lol!

And genuine parts...get them if you can afford them!

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I just did my series 3 box up and used gen 1st/2nd gears but used a non gen 3/4 hub. Used a new genuine mainshaft and SKF bearings. All forward gears work well but she jumps out in reverse occasionally. Bugger! Put in a stiffer detent spring but it didn't make much difference. i think ill just live with it for a while.

is reverse lever set on shaft properly allowing full selection ,is it a new reverse ,originally reverse idler needle bearing had a slight twist this helped hold into gear new ones are often straight

jamesmartin said:

is reverse lever set on shaft properly allowing full selection ,is it a new reverse ,originally reverse idler needle bearing had a slight twist this helped hold into gear new ones are often straight

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its an old reverse gear. Ive built a few series gearboxes and have been lucky with reverse as I never changed them out. but I did fit a new needle roller bearing on this one. I thought the fork setup was correct but not sure. i havent pulled the top off again. the strange thing is it didn't do that before.

It feels like its getting full selection but it sometimes dosent. Sometimes i select the gear and when i pull the clutch up slowly its not meshing properly and gives that token grinding noise. do you think its prob the fork setup?

Would just like to say the gearbox is still going well and thanks to all the people who have helped in the topics

jamesmartin said:

is reverse lever set on shaft properly allowing full selection ,is it a new reverse ,originally reverse idler needle bearing had a slight twist this helped hold into gear new ones are often straight

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Hi James I have been reading what you have been saying about the ser 3 gear box , I need some more on setting up the fork on the reverse gear .

I rebuilt mine with the help of a land rover mac , but I only got some of his time ( paid for) . I have replaced everything all bearings sincro , and new reverse ( it had been jumping out a lot before i bought ) gear and needle bearing , New springs detent .I have the suf D box with the coffin sincro ( new now ).

The problem i have is, on over run , 1 and 2 jumps out , and revers always jumps out . I was wondering can you go into more detail of setting up the forks , as i replace everything , what are the measurements , how far back should my shifting fork be in the selector shaft for reverse , based on where ? ( Castle nut tight )

The mac looked at my forks and said they were fine , did not need replacing ? He went threw all parts and told me what to replace . He had been working on landys for 30 years and still dose ,so I felt good about what he said .But the dam thing still jumps out , I live far out of town so cant run back to him easily .

I dont no what way to go as I thought by replacing everything , that needed it , this would fix it jumping out gear . When I bought the landy it jumped out , but then my layshaft bearing went , so thats when the rebuild started . Thanks

too much end float on gears will cause them to jump out ,the bush on 2nd and 3rd is sized to suit between 2 thou and 8 thou at the most, nut on rear of mainshaft not tight will effect 1st , did you fit new balls and springs in synchro unit and are slipper pads right way round,1st/2nd selector shaft is set by leaving hub in neutral and pushing shaft back till the free play in hub goes mark shaft on rear edge of detent drilling,then do the same forwards but mark in line with front edge of drilling,the notch in shaft for detent should be center of those 2 marks adjust to suit same with 3rd /4th, with reverse you ensure idlers fully forward when shaft neutral detent positions align, and again that its fully meshed when notch for rev is aligned with detent

jamesmartin said:

too much end float on gears will cause them to jump out ,the bush on 2nd and 3rd is sized to suit between 2 thou and 8 thou at the most, nut on rear of mainshaft not tight will effect 1st , did you fit new balls and springs in synchro unit and are slipper pads right way round,1st/2nd selector shaft is set by leaving hub in neutral and pushing shaft back till the free play in hub goes mark shaft on rear edge of detent drilling,then do the same forwards but mark in line with front edge of drilling,the notch in shaft for detent should be center of those 2 marks adjust to suit same with 3rd /4th, with reverse you ensure idlers fully forward when shaft neutral detent positions align, and again that its fully meshed when notch for rev is aligned with detent

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Thanks very Much will try do that again !