Gearbox fault?

Datatek said:

I have one from a 95 that I think is OK, I'll have a look tomorrow if it helps. No relays or fuses though.

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cheers, but you don't need to. I'll just buy some extra stuff from Craddocks to help me justify the delivery cost

I have some locals i could've asked but eh, new is better ay
Many thanks tho @Datatek .

I can almost bet i need something in the future tho

synchro said:

This is the correct fusebox right?
https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/amr6477-box-assy-fuse.html


do i just get the box?? Weird titlename, box assembly. Kinda makes me think its just the box

or is this the shait i need?

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Oh I definitely think you need the shait. Make sure you make the toilet.

tomcat59alan said:

Oh I definitely think you need the shait. Make sure you make the toilet.

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on the toilet ordering straigth up

That GST tax better pay for toll customs and all that.... And i was shocked on delivery at first!

Purchased it tho.
Cheaper than dealer ay. They prob charge the whole amount for just a fusebox... If not more...

Hopefully the pump will aid me in the gear and transfer oil change I doubt Lucas trans fix would work in it tho?? I saw on youtube, a "lifehack" that you just pour the lucas oil in the sump when you drop it, as your changing filter! Not bad!!
I managed to change the diff fluid with a larger suction typo large thingy pump, but as its plastic and like 50-60cm long its not everywere it fits.. (barely got my diff with it, as it needs to be leveled on flat surface...) i fit nice under the engine when suspension is on normal, but i ain't fitting under the sides on normal, well i am, but then i am scraping the frame..


I honestly dont complain that much on prices, as my previous relationship with a car (i took to dealer for everything almost) was a hefty cost.
Spent 1900GBP just on a MOT with 2 wheel bearings and some sensors... I guess im weak for cars, i can't just wreck a car if i want it to live on...

But as i live in Norway, i am quite known to taxes.... And god, i hate it. Atleast when the government just blows it away on something so stupid it shouldnt even be allowed

Oh and did i say 1kw/h of electricity costs 0.6GBP without fees

Anyhow, merry christmas (if its not 25th in england?)

That gearbox filler is no more than a garden sprayer which can be found for about €9 here in France

Datatek said:

That gearbox filler is no more than a garden sprayer which can be found for about €9 here in France

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the garden sprayers i found at retail just have tiny, tiny nozzles so i just opted for that one. Small enough to fit under the car, large enough for a 1l bottle of oil.
Need tools anyways.
Saving money fixing the car myself aswell

Does anyone know where the ECT sensor connects to? What i mean is, does it get its power from the fusebox, or the becm? I know the ect is only connected to the gauge now, as output wise, but were does it take the power from?

Still awaiting my fusebox.
I've heard about dry solders, is that something typical in a p38 fusebox?
I do know it smells badly, as previously stated. Very electrical, yes.

Also heard that if the fusebox is abit dull, it perhaps draws more current than it should? as my battery not getting charged up... my voltage regulator is closing in atleast.
But what i have in theory now is that when engine gets warm, fuse box gets warm (assumably a quite worn fusebox smelling electricity), solders go wiho and sensor goes peepoo ???

synchro said:

Does anyone know where the ECT sensor connects to? What i mean is, does it get its power from the fusebox, or the becm? I know the ect is only connected to the gauge now, as output wise, but were does it take the power from?

Still awaiting my fusebox.
I've heard about dry solders, is that something typical in a p38 fusebox?
I do know it smells badly, as previously stated. Very electrical, yes.

Also heard that if the fusebox is abit dull, it perhaps draws more current than it should? as my battery not getting charged up... my voltage regulator is closing in atleast.
But what i have in theory now is that when engine gets warm, fuse box gets warm (assumably a quite worn fusebox smelling electricity), solders go wiho and sensor goes peepoo ???

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ECT sensor, I don't recognise that??????
If the fuse box is getting hot, it is definitely knackered, power is tracking across the PCB so could drain your battery and cause all manner of other problems.

Datatek said:

ECT sensor, I don't recognise that??????
If the fuse box is getting hot, it is definitely knackered, power is tracking across the PCB so could drain your battery and cause all manner of other problems.

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engine coolant temperature sensor

synchro said:

engine coolant temperature sensor

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synchro said:

engine coolant temperature sensor

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Connects to the EDC on the diesel. Gauge sensor I think is from the BECM.

Had 12.2volts today morning, -3c.
Still managed to start with some air in the diesel (im on it, just need a hoseclamp)

How could one know if the brushes on the alternator is bad?

synchro said:

Had 12.2volts today morning, -3c.
Still managed to start with some air in the diesel (im on it, just need a hoseclamp)

How could one know if the brushes on the alternator is bad?

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If a brush is bad, the alternator will not charge and the indicator light will not extinguish when the engine is running, this can be intermittent.
Poor charging can be caused by a bad connection or failed engine to chassis earth strap, a bad battery to chassis connection, corrosion inside the plastic of the cable from alternator to battery and even a slipping serpentine belt, although you should hear that.
The brushes wore out on both mine at around the 130K miles point.

I put the instant shudder fix oily thing in my gearbox, apparently if it makes the car shift good and not being a t*at as it was before, then its fluid related and not mechanical (at this point)

so atleast i know the lucas transmission fix has a good standpoint in making the box gear better!

perhaps i have enough transmission oil left so i can also do the transfer box! Dont think the old owner did that one. Dunno, better change

Also, i still have the issue regarding my battery voltage. Seems like when i come in the mornings its at 12.4x volts.

i will try to get ahold on some new earth cables, as ive seen their abit green inside the plastic. But copper turns green ay?

might need to clean the earth.. i remember having it off when doing the return coolant pipe o ring, so perhaps a bad connection yes, some oil residue inbetween perhaps.

my fusebox hasnt even been sent yet
Craddocks slow? Purchased it on saturday. everything was in stock.

My volt regulator stuck in latvia since the weekend My lucas trans oil was the last i ordered, and im getting it tomorrow…. Its already came to Norway. From ebay!!! 3 days shipping UK-Nor.

I feel shipping from uk is not bad now!


Anyhow, yes the transmission is a whole nother level now due to a magically desiliter of shudder fix.. Cant wait to fill with fresh gear oil and lucas!

anyhow, talking about gear oil, i purchased the kit on british parts, clearly pictures Ravenol oil.
I got Granville ATF-MV. Is that a good brand?

synchro said:

I put the instant shudder fix oily thing in my gearbox, apparently if it makes the car shift good and not being a t*at as it was before, then its fluid related and not mechanical (at this point)

so atleast i know the lucas transmission fix has a good standpoint in making the box gear better!

perhaps i have enough transmission oil left so i can also do the transfer box! Dont think the old owner did that one. Dunno, better change

Also, i still have the issue regarding my battery voltage. Seems like when i come in the mornings its at 12.4x volts.

i will try to get ahold on some new earth cables, as ive seen their abit green inside the plastic. But copper turns green ay?

might need to clean the earth.. i remember having it off when doing the return coolant pipe o ring, so perhaps a bad connection yes, some oil residue inbetween perhaps.

my fusebox hasnt even been sent yet
Craddocks slow? Purchased it on saturday. everything was in stock.

My volt regulator stuck in latvia since the weekend My lucas trans oil was the last i ordered, and im getting it tomorrow…. Its already came to Norway. From ebay!!! 3 days shipping UK-Nor.

I feel shipping from uk is not bad now!


Anyhow, yes the transmission is a whole nother level now due to a magically desiliter of shudder fix.. Cant wait to fill with fresh gear oil and lucas!

anyhow, talking about gear oil, i purchased the kit on british parts, clearly pictures Ravenol oil.
I got Granville ATF-MV. Is that a good brand?

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Some batteries will settle at 12.4 volts, don't forget on the P38 there is a constant drain on the battery from the BECM. You may find that if you disconnect the battery the voltage will rise to 12.6 after an hour or so with no load.
Do make sure the BECM is going to sleep as it should.

Datatek said:

Some batteries will settle at 12.4 volts, don't forget on the P38 there is a constant drain on the battery from the BECM. You may find that if you disconnect the battery the voltage will rise to 12.6 after an hour or so with no load.
Do make sure the BECM is going to sleep as it should.

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i think my becm sleeps as it should, i dont have a rf reciever in the car so the signals and 5gs wont disrupt it from zzzzz i guess.

just odd it happends out off the blue ay? Owned the car for over half a year now, even with the old, 50/50 retired battery it didnt have such low voltage, neither any codes (apart from them all when battery was under 10volt) Voltage regulator still stuck in latvia, for almost a week now

But as you said, if brushes were bad the battery light would’ve been lit.

i am going to try around today to perhaps buy some earth cables. Sadly out of stock on the largest and easiest warehouse to go to… What diameter is it btw? I suppose it wont matter if i go to big, but if i go to small.. (earth cables).

My earth cable from battery goes to rockercover, where the bracket who holds the coolant return pipe in place. Thats the only earth cable i’ve fiddled with, so gonna haf to check that up!

a bad earth cable could actually be a power drainage aswell u said earlier?


Again, a big thanks for holding on with me, i know im a little pest
Very thankfull for all of the responses

synchro said:

i think my becm sleeps as it should, i dont have a rf reciever in the car so the signals and 5gs wont disrupt it from zzzzz i guess.

just odd it happends out off the blue ay? Owned the car for over half a year now, even with the old, 50/50 retired battery it didnt have such low voltage, neither any codes (apart from them all when battery was under 10volt) Voltage regulator still stuck in latvia, for almost a week now

But as you said, if brushes were bad the battery light would’ve been lit.

i am going to try around today to perhaps buy some earth cables. Sadly out of stock on the largest and easiest warehouse to go to… What diameter is it btw? I suppose it wont matter if i go to big, but if i go to small.. (earth cables).

My earth cable from battery goes to rockercover, where the bracket who holds the coolant return pipe in place. Thats the only earth cable i’ve fiddled with, so gonna haf to check that up!

a bad earth cable could actually be a power drainage aswell u said earlier?


Again, a big thanks for holding on with me, i know im a little pest
Very thankfull for all of the responses

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The earth cable from the battery should go to the chassis NOT the rocker cover. Underneath, there should be a braided earth strap from engine to chassis.
There are several variations on Lead Calcium battery chemistry, some showing lower voltages at rest than others.
Have you done the BECM sleep test?

Datatek said:

The earth cable from the battery should go to the chassis NOT the rocker cover. Underneath, there should be a braided earth strap from engine to chassis.
There are several variations on Lead Calcium battery chemistry, some showing lower voltages at rest than others.
Have you done the BECM sleep test?

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not done the test no, will do.

im gonna take a peek after work and actually check all the cables.

Datatek said:

The earth cable from the battery should go to the chassis NOT the rocker cover. Underneath, there should be a braided earth strap from engine to chassis.
There are several variations on Lead Calcium battery chemistry, some showing lower voltages at rest than others.
Have you done the BECM sleep test?

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I think he meant it heads off towards the rocker cover and bolts to the bracket just before the rocker which is as mine. Also @synchro the earth bolts to the inner wing just under the fusebox area, mine was a bit manky there.

Flossie said:

I think he meant it heads off towards the rocker cover and bolts to the bracket just before the rocker which is as mine. Also @synchro the earth bolts to the inner wing just under the fusebox area, mine was a bit manky there.

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exactly this

will check the earth under the fuse area. I’ve spilled tons of coolant there when re filling so

Im ready for gear oil change, with lucas trans fix in, and swapping the voltage regulator. Just have a question about this piece?? is that circular thingy just a protective cap? i Took it off, (had 2) 1 were hollow (which was loose in the package) and the other one seemed to hold the 2 bronze/copper contacts retained in.

i did some tests today, and it seems like my earth cable is indeed OK, no voltage drops Guess its just my fusy boxs, which i ain't getting before next year... duh

Any tips and tricks about changing the regulator or is it just straight forward, take off the minus cable on the battery, and then just take out the old regulator, and in with the new? No need for any torque specs or shait? just mount it like it is mounted as before...