Gearbox fault?

I'm back at it again My range rover just wanted to throw me a **** pass. Again

(p38 2.5dse 97 for thoose who dont remember )

Whenever i take ignition on or off, dashboard gives me a "Gearbox Fault"
No codes logged in nanocom, neither EDC, or gearbox ECU has logged any faults..
Neither any warnings lamps in dashboard, the only one coming on is the handbrake symbol at startup even tho i dont have the handbrake on. Goes away after a few seconds

The car drives and shifts (sometimes harsh) as should. Sport mode works.

I googled, but couldn't find any similar cases.
Im yet again dumbfounded

Note, i've swapped my transfer box ecu before (burnt out apparently), it cured my issues with non existent low gear. (this is months ago)

Am i perhaps in due for a gearbox, and transfer box fluid change? Previous owner apparently "partially" drained and filled the gearbox. Did not re-new the gearbox filter apparently.

This all just happend today after driving home from work (startup and shutdown)
cheers !

Battery low ?

Change fluids and filter this time.
Check battery and all the leads condition.

J

The battery is a new one. A solid battery. 110AH 1000CCA

I have not changed my voltage regulator on my alternator, i was recommended this to up the voltage but idk??

Battery leads should be fine, i re-did the terminal connectors to fit the new battery (worked toppers for over a month)

new battery is great, but is it fully charged? dont assume it is if you've not checked

kermit_rr said:

new battery is great, but is it fully charged? dont assume it is if you've not checked

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As Kermit said, it might be a new battery but is it fully charged, unless you fully charged it before fitting, with a low regulator set point it will never fully charge, just slowly die. Gearbox Fault is most often due to a low battery.

so my alternator is poo poo then, i believe this was changed back in 2018, perhaps a used part who knows.

You need to test it before you write it off

synchro said:

so my alternator is poo poo then, i believe this was changed back in 2018, perhaps a used part who knows.

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The age of the alternator is immaterial as the regulator can be changed to provide the correct charging voltage for modern lead calcium batteries.

I am going to check the voltage tomorow- What would be expected voltage at battery before i start it up and whilst running? I think its approx 13.6 at idle if im not unsure. Was 13.6 when i fitted it atleast

A new battery should be around 12.7 depending on construction.
If it's on the car then if the cpu is awake, it will show a slightly lower voltage
My car starts charging at 14.7 (at idle with no accessories or lights turned on) then drops slowly to around 13.8 as the battery becomes fully charged again

I believe an old voltage set regulator will slowly kill a new modern battery. IE 13.6v not enough for new batteries

As above check battery voltage engine off, then engine at 2000rpm with lights heater etc all on and not voltage.

As all above ...there is also the possibility the xyz switch is worn ,,,,If it doint light the gear selected ie d ,and 1 flashes on then off the ,dash will say fault,....

cheers for all the replies, i will check tomorow. Probably due to swap out the regulator, heck maybe even the brushes??

I mounted a quite decently sized subwoofer in the back with amp... 700watt amplifier... (at max volume obv) back 4 months ago.

I believe my alternator has run abit harder after i installed this one... perhaps i need higher amp alternator. Stock one does right above 100amps ay? I think i can get a 120-140 for 200€ tops

Will check the voltages tmw tho

The snowing has settled for a week and melted away, but apparently its getting real cold next week, brrrr Ain't no fear with my fresh, new Hakkapelita 10 suv tires

You should be fine with that amp it's not 'huge'

synchro said:

cheers for all the replies, i will check tomorow. Probably due to swap out the regulator, heck maybe even the brushes??

I mounted a quite decently sized subwoofer in the back with amp... 700watt amplifier... (at max volume obv) back 4 months ago.

I believe my alternator has run abit harder after i installed this one... perhaps i need higher amp alternator. Stock one does right above 100amps ay? I think i can get a 120-140 for 200€ tops

Will check the voltages tmw tho

The snowing has settled for a week and melted away, but apparently its getting real cold next week, brrrr Ain't no fear with my fresh, new Hakkapelita 10 suv tires

Click to expand...

The new 14.7 regulator has new brushes.

Does any one know which i should buy?
Its easy to replace the regulator rigth?
Heard its just 2-3 screws at the back of the unit? Anything to take care off?

Whilst im doing this, should i perhaps renew my electrical cables? ( - and + from battery?) Any ready cuts available?

im about to go out and be sherlock holmes, its just raining some

synchro said:

Does any one know which i should buy?
Its easy to replace the regulator rigth?
Heard its just 2-3 screws at the back of the unit? Anything to take care off?

Whilst im doing this, should i perhaps renew my electrical cables? ( - and + from battery?) Any ready cuts available?

im about to go out and be sherlock holmes, its just raining some

Click to expand...

Enter 14.7voltage regulator in the search box plenty of information there including which one you need.

The regulator you want is Mobiltron, unfortunately I have lost the var number after my computer crashed but it begins with VR- I think.