Gearbox Crossmember replacement

Hi,
The gearbox crossmember on my 1989 Land Rover 90 needs replacing. I had assumed that it would be a simple job to remove it and bolt in a new one, but reading about it I get the impression that getting the old one out can be a major headache.
Before I start I wondered if anyone had done this and can suggest anyway to make the job as easy as possible.
Many thanks
On a different note. I tried to upload a picture of the crossmember, but got a message
You do not have permission to view this page or perform this action
Is there a way around this?

Yes you can copy paste.

J

Thank you!

I have never had to do it, but have seen some here struggle a bit as the chassis closes up a bit, so you need to jack it open to get replacement in. Having just taken 1 out of a range rover it needed a good hammer so was a very good interference fit.

If everything else is still in place that could be difficult to get a straight push.

Wait for others to chime in cos its bound to have been done the "easy way" by someone.

J

Yep its knackered.
What about the chassis that dont look good either.

J

I am getting the chassis looked at next week. There is the area in this picture plus rear drivers side outrigger needs replacing and surrounding area needs patching.
Am told by the welder that it is not structural and is an "easy" fix for an expert (it did pass its last MOT with an advisory). Hopefully this turns out to be true!

The issue with the X-member is that it rusts between the chassis and expands making it very tight.
As yours is completely knacked i'd suggest undoing the bolts and cutting it out with a grinder. The chassis is liable to be pretty weak so smacking it with a lump hammer may not be the best of ideas.

That area above the chassis rail isn't structural but does have cables running through the chassis section below so be carefull.

Also to bear in mind................with the chassis being in the state it is in I can pretty well quarantee that when the cross member comes out there will be a hole in the chassis where it is hidden by the ends of the cross member. So not going to be just a bolt out---bolt in job.

I would normally suggest two blocks of wood and a bottle jack to open the chassis rails enough for the crossmember to drop out (same goes for putting the new one in) but I am not sure how your chassis would take that looking at the pictures you would have to be carful if you went down this route.

Thanks for the reply’s, sounds like I may have more problems than I hoped I would!

GaryW said:

Thanks for the reply’s, sounds like I may have more problems than I hoped I would!

Click to expand...

Yes, perfectly normal state of affairs that is

Not structural?

That bit of the chassis with the holes in is the end of the rear A-frame crossmember. It sees quite big loads under acceleration and braking and is definitely structural! Not an easy job to fix, the rear body usually has to come off to do it unless the rot is only in the outside end plate - very rare as the mud collects on the insides and rusts it out from there.

Yes, it has to push the car along, or pull it to a stop under braking. Also, the upper link provides the lateral location for the rear axle (there's no separate Panhard rod as there is on the front) so it pushes the car round corners as well. All these forces will fatigue the remaining filaments and something will come apart. It's more of a doily than a chassis. I'd be hesitant to drive the car in that condition. Even if I tried to be very gentle with it, sooner or later there'd be a situation that needed hard braking, for example if someone pulls out in front of you. Sorry, that sounds rather negative. But it really does need to be solid!