Freelander 1 Gearbox advice

Well I had a nice 8am slave explosion yesterday in busy traffic, the clutch just before was flat on the floor and the car was moving forward, rammed it in second and the clutch dropped to the floor, limped it to the hard shoulder and was lucky I had a spare master/slave in the boot!

I did notice when changing the clutch release arm was very stiff, a bit of back and forth seemed to free it back up anyway. Switched the master/slave in a bout 10 minutes (got it down to a fine art) and when I started back up it seemed like it was nice and smooth again, it usually takes hours so I'm inclined to believe it's the arm seizing, maybe due to the bearings or the housing for them at least.

I'm going to try a lube and grease to see if that helps on the base of the arm, if it does I'll probably try to replace that before going mad and getting the gearbox/clutch changed out.

MGF uses a hydraulic slave too - and suffers with a seizing clutch release arm. I haven't looked to see whether the FL uses the same arm or not, but MG specialists sell a version that has a lubrication nipple.

I've not used one on mine: they usually free up as you describe - but it might be worth seeing whether you can get some light machine oil in there...

Oiling the clutch arm should be done as often as pulling the dipstick, perhaps two drops off the dipstick before its wiped will suffice !

rob_bell said:

MGF uses a hydraulic slave too - and suffers with a seizing clutch release arm. I haven't looked to see whether the FL uses the same arm or not, but MG specialists sell a version that has a lubrication nipple.

I've not used one on mine: they usually free up as you describe - but it might be worth seeing whether you can get some light machine oil in there...

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FL uses a different arm to the F. The F uses a proper clevis pin arrangement. The FL uses a ball and cup arrangement.

freelance said:

Oiling the clutch arm should be done as often as pulling the dipstick, perhaps two drops off the dipstick before its wiped will suffice !

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I've been suggesting that method of years

Nodge68 said:

FL uses a different arm to the F. The F uses a proper clevis pin arrangement. The FL uses a ball and cup arrangement

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Yes, I had a look at mine this evening. Why on earth did Rover keep reinventing the wheel?!?

rob_bell said:

Yes, I had a look at mine this evening. Why on earth did Rover keep reinventing the wheel?!?

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Cost cutting
I bet the hydraulic system used on the Freelander cost 25% of that used on the F.

You'd think using the same parts for more vehicles would actually save money? But I know nothing...

rob_bell said:

Why on earth did Rover keep reinventing the wheel?!?

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It must be their favorite past-time. Today I've been working out the model of the Wabco ABS ECU in my early (pre MY01) Freelander. It turns out that there were 4 different ECUs used - SRD100240, SRD100410, SRD100480 and SRD100481. However, it turns out they are all the same Wabco 446 044 070 0 part. So it appears they reinvent the wheel, even when its the same wheel! Go figure!

The part numbers changed more then likely for software changes as its not an updatable unit where the hardware has stayed the same