Galvanized spray paint

Afternoon all.

I'm in the process of rebuilding my s3 and all the cappings and window frame need freshening up.
Any recommendations for a galvanized spray paint that will look similar to the original hot dipped finish?

Many thanks, Shirl.

Don't think there is any that will give it the same look, all the ones I've used at work end up looking like normal silver spray paint.

Get them re-galvanised, it's not stupidly expensive, and since it's priced by weight you'll probably be down at their minimum charge and around the same cost as a few rattle cans. Google found this one. https://www.josephash.co.uk/locations/joseph-ash-medway/

Wurth galv spray then matt laquer gives a decent finish...

+1 on getting them re-galvanised.. I'm sure you can find some other bits to get re-galve'd to get beyond the minimum spend


I've used Bilt Hambers Electrox:-


Mainly for touching up zintec sheet after welderizing on our D1's... So, I've used quite a lot of it

Seems very good so far.

We used to use Galvafroid. It came in spray cans or brush on. Because it’s zinc rich, the tins were quite heavy. It’s good stuff.

meego said:

We used to use Galvafroid. It came in spray cans or brush on. Because it’s zinc rich, the tins were quite heavy. It’s good stuff.

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Yep, use that too ... mainly on farm gates where the galv gets knocked off when some fool hits them with a tractor or somesuch..

Works well IME.

meego said:

We used to use Galvafroid. It came in spray cans or brush on. Because it’s zinc rich, the tins were quite heavy. It’s good stuff.

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Teamac Zinc Rich Primer is similar to Galvafroid. As you say, the tins are heavy due to the high metal content.

I have used brush on, no idea if it comes in spray or not.

It isn't inexpensive, think it was 65 quid a litre last time I bought some.

These paints are all fine for some rust prevention (and my preference is Zinga) but I don't think any look remotely like galvanising?

boguing said:

These paints are all fine for some rust prevention (and my preference is Zinga) but I don't think any look remotely like galvanising?

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Teamac looks pretty much the same as new galv. Most galv that you see is well weathered.

boguing said:

These paints are all fine for some rust prevention (and my preference is Zinga) but I don't think any look remotely like galvanising?

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Agreed. But their main purpose is to touch up where galv has been compromised. Where welded or scratched through to the base metal for example. Nothing is as good as the actual galvi.

I should have expanded a little. If you were restoring a Series LR, would you paint the cappings when you could get them and half your garden tools done properly for £50?

boguing said:

I should have expanded a little. If you were restoring a Series LR, would you paint the cappings when you could get them and half your garden tools done properly for £50?

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Probably not.

In fact, what I did on my Series 2a when the galv began to go off a bit was paint over it with some old white gloss paint that I had left over.
I was pretty pleased with the results, gave the windscreen surrounds an interesting appearance, stayed on, and lasted until I sold it 10 years later.

When I have more time, I will tell you all about the Wilko Exterior Gloss I am about to paint on the hull of my boat.
Only 20 quid a tin, high VOCs, what's not to like!

I visited the Threlkeld Mining Museum a few years ago which has a huge collection of vintage cable operated excavators. On looking at the area where people were working on the machines I was expecting to see all kinds of fancy protectants being used, but no, it was Wickes own brand gloss paint. Oh, and the lubricant of choice was WD40, judging by the build up of empty cans under the workbenches. You can get some surprisingly good adhesion and durability out of cheap paint.

Brown said:

I visited the Threlkeld Mining Museum a few years ago which has a huge collection of vintage cable operated excavators. On looking at the area where people were working on the machines I was expecting to see all kinds of fancy protectants being used, but no, it was Wickes own brand gloss paint. Oh, and the lubricant of choice was WD40, judging by the build up of empty cans under the workbenches. You can get some surprisingly good adhesion and durability out of cheap paint.

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The Marlin Roadster build manual suggests you paint the chassis with oil based exteriro gloss, cos that will allow a bit of flex without chipping or cracking off. So when I did my last kit chassis I used etch primer then exterior gloss. Biggest problem was getting it to stick to the etch primer which I had put on too thick.

Up here we have a galvanising plant in Elgin, been going for years so clearly they've not lost any of their marbles.

Brown said:

I visited the Threlkeld Mining Museum a few years ago which has a huge collection of vintage cable operated excavators. On looking at the area where people were working on the machines I was expecting to see all kinds of fancy protectants being used, but no, it was Wickes own brand gloss paint. Oh, and the lubricant of choice was WD40, judging by the build up of empty cans under the workbenches. You can get some surprisingly good adhesion and durability out of cheap paint.

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And some surprisingly poor durability and adhesion out of expensive stuff.

International, which was considered the leading marine paint for years, is now soft as you like, and easily lifted by bird poo and other contaminants.

Turboman said:

And some surprisingly poor durability and adhesion out of expensive stuff.

International, which was considered the leading marine paint for years, is now soft as you like, and easily lifted by bird poo and other contaminants.

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Up here we have Norland paint, who eternally apologise that the best they can offer is the MAX permissible VOC's in their products, which is less than half what it was pre-Brussels meddling.

They stop short of assailing tw@ts who ask for water based sh!te... but only just !

myfirstl322 said:

They stop short of assailing tw@ts who ask for water based sh!te... but only just !

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Why ?