Fuse Failures and Anti-freeze disappearing!

Right i have just check my anti freeze after filling it up 2 days ago and the bottle was completely empty. I have been driving around in the snow quite a bit but nothing extreme or stupid. Is it a leak or over heating.

Also i was out driving last night when suddenly fuses 12, 13, 14 and 15 came up on the dashboard as blown. This cause the right side of my car to loase all lights the boot wouldn't open and the interior lights wouldn't work. Then after unloading the shopping with the car still running all of a sudden everythink worked again. Now this morning the car says the fuses have blown when their fine and i can't start the car the pressurize the antifreeze because it says the engine is disables. Please i need lots of help on this one.

welcome
you have multiple problems between ur hands;
1.fuses failing messages normaly can be tracked down to burned fuse box,dirty/loose fuse box connectors,or BECM reltated.mine did that and i cured it by replacing the burned fuse box.
2.engine disabled is related to alarm system,it takes a long time to tell u the whole story about the engine immobilization,the best way to fully understand this particular fault is to search the forum,it is well discussed,it will give u the general idea.
3.about loosing water,first thing to do is checking for leaks from all of the hoses and bleed pipes in the engine bay,as well as leaks from the heater matrix or o rings (that can be easily identified by damp carpets in the cabin). Remember though that sometimes damp carpets can be caused by rain water and a/c drainage blocked,the best way to identify if coolant or water is by smelling coolant traces or sweet taste.
good luck,u will need it.keep us posted.

Do you think that the engine being disabled could be down to the fuse of the remote being 'blown' even tho its not. I was thinking if i could get the car to stop reading fuses as blown then it would allow me to start the engine.

Might pay to remove offending fuses, check & clean contacts - careful not to short anything though!!

Ridesafe said:

Might pay to remove offending fuses, check & clean contacts - careful not to short anything though!!

Click to expand...

Uhuh removing and cleaning them won't cure it.the pro is not from the fuses.it is from current not reaching becm coz of faulty fuse box or bad main connectors under it.
Could be also the power surge is wht caused the immobilizer to activate.put ur eka code to remove the immobilizer.then sniff the fuse box 4 any burning smell,remove also the relay of the blowers and check 4 burns and cracks on the fuse box board,it is a common pro.

Well bad news for the range, checked all conectors, earthings, relays and wiring and then were ll fine. Took the car to a land rover guy who told me that the BeCM has gone and so i need a new 1. Also the leak of anti freeze could be down to somethink more serious than a leak as when the engine was warm water was dripping out of the overfill tube on the bottle cap.

that what they said to me when i had the same problem.they wanted to replace the becm then i insisted on replacing my burnt cracked fuse box,and told them not to touch the becm,i have replaced the fuse box and problem went.u didn't mention the fuse box,did u sniff it as i suggested?or at least did u remove the blowers relays and looked under them?
about coolant being thrown from the expansion tank,it could be a faulty cap with a stuck opened valve,or presurizing coz of a coolant circulation problem.sniff the coolant for exhaust gazes,and check the oil filler cap for milky stuff contamination.

Poor old BECM always gets the blame, as said, check the fuse box for signs/smells of burning first.

Have a read at this. Corroded fuse box is not uncommon and often caused by spillage (or leaks) when topping up the header tank.

Range Rover P38/4.0/4.6 Common Problems and Fixes