Fuse 15 failed

hey gents;
this fooker keeps on blowing,sometimes every day,sometimes once per month,i keep on replacing it,now fuse 15 controls the following:

Courtesy lights, handset receiver, loadspace
light, rear wiper, sub-woofer, rear audio system​

amplifiers

it is either my courtesy lights doing it or the sub-woofer as they r suspects although nothing is visibile from the sub woofer except one orange and black wire going from the radio unit that is for the subwoofer.
if i replace this fuse with a 25 amps fuse or 30 amps fuse,am i risking anything?the fuse is 20 amps,and the new fuse inserted won't fail upon insertion so it isn't a severe short somewhere right?i don't want to strip the rear doors nor the rear wiper nor the loadspace,coz they r time consuming and i am impatient for these stuff as i hate electrics.should i replace it with a 25 amps one?

If I'm correct fuse 15 also is the one you remove to lock the gearbox in N for towing? Assuming yours is auto that is? So something else to look at as cause?

ROBV8 said:

If I'm correct fuse 15 also is the one you remove to lock the gearbox in N for towing? Assuming yours is auto that is? So something else to look at as cause?

Click to expand...

NO sir it is fuse 11 to neutralize the transfer box.

RIGHT HAND SEAT FUSE BOX
Fuse number Rating (AMPS) Circuit protected
1 10A Instrument pack, clock, radio, centre console
2 30A RH rear window, seat heaters
3 5A Automatic gearbox ECU
4 30A Transfer box ECU
5 - Not used
6 10A Rear view mirror dip, automatic gearbox ECU,
sun visor illumination, transfer box ECU
7 10A Airbag SRS
8 30A Car phone, aerial amplifier, cigar lighter, radio,
heating, ventilation and air-conditioning
9 20A Front audio system amplifiers, front doors
10 30A RH seat
11 - Not used (insert fuse - 5 amp or more - to
select transfer neutral)
12 30A Heated rear screen and LH rear window
13 20A Shift interlock solenoid, key inhibit solenoid,
sunroof
14 20A Rear central door locking, fuel flap solenoid,
trailer socket, tailgate central door locking
15 20A Courtesy lights, handset receiver, loadspace
light, rear wiper, sub-woofer, rear audio system
amplifiers
16 - Not used
17 10A Brake switch, heating, ventilation and
air-conditioning, air suspension switches
18 - Not used
19 - Not used
20 30A LH seat
21 - Not used
22 30A LH and RH front doors (windows only)
This fuse box contains five spare fuses, one each of 5A, 10A, 20A and two 30A.

Could you disconnect sub wire from stereo to rule that out? Then if still blows disconnect lights one at a time and so on? Time consuming I know if it takes a while to blow. IMO I wouldn't stick a bigger fuse in really as it's not actually fixing it and could course more permanent damage to something.

ROBV8 said:

Could you disconnect sub wire from stereo to rule that out? Then if still blows disconnect lights one at a time and so on? Time consuming I know if it takes a while to blow. IMO I wouldn't stick a bigger fuse in really as it's not actually fixing it and could course more permanent damage to something.

Click to expand...

sub wire from radio can't be disconnected coz it is on a plug with amps wires,it can be cut though but i wouldn't do that.

Well on mine I put the gear selector into the middle of high and low boxes and removed fuse 15 and it locks it there?? That's how I towed mine to workshop when it wouldn't go?? But I could have been wrong it seems? Oopps.

The wrong size fuse could cause wires to burn out but it will keep you warm whilst your waiting for the fire brigade.

no doubt about that wammers,i want an escape route,i know that it is wrong to do that.man if i want to trace it i will need all day long,i have to strip everything up.i have an extinguisher by the way lol,don't think one will be enough for p38 though.

jorjio_k said:

sub wire from radio can't be disconnected coz it is on a plug with amps wires,it can be cut though but i wouldn't do that.

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Well disconnecting the plug would rule out the sub and amps or it would point blame at them? Put a meter on wires check for any resistance? Could show up a fault to either of them? I hate electrics too but it's not that hard really.

jorjio_k said:

hey gents;
this fooker keeps on blowing,sometimes every day,sometimes once per month,i keep on replacing it,now fuse 15 controls the following:

Courtesy lights, handset receiver, loadspace
light, rear wiper, sub-woofer, rear audio system​

amplifiers

it is either my courtesy lights doing it or the sub-woofer as they r suspects although nothing is visibile from the sub woofer except one orange and black wire going from the radio unit that is for the subwoofer.
if i replace this fuse with a 25 amps fuse or 30 amps fuse,am i risking anything?the fuse is 20 amps,and the new fuse inserted won't fail upon insertion so it isn't a severe short somewhere right?i don't want to strip the rear doors nor the rear wiper nor the loadspace,coz they r time consuming and i am impatient for these stuff as i hate electrics.should i replace it with a 25 amps one?

Click to expand...

yes don't go to a higher rating,you will do more harm than good,go through a process of elimination,and identify the fault,otherwise you could have a bigger problem than what you started with.

bump