The brake pipe job had to go on hold as I needed to get the winter log cutting under way
View attachment 161521
That's trailer load #5, 5 or 6 more to go. Log stores one & two are full
View attachment 161522
It became clear that the brake pipes are fitted to the body shell before the shell is dropped onto the chassis, I could find no way of getting the pipe out without cutting it
View attachment 161523
As you can see, the pipe was almost rusted through at the bend above the right hand chassis leg
View attachment 161524
As far as I'm concerned, it is impossible to replicate the pipe run exactly without lifting the body off, so I modified the run. It passes over the cross member in the original clips, note the rust on the welded seem on the cross member.
View attachment 161527
The pipe then follows the chassis legs which negates the intermediate flexible hoses which allow for movement between the body and chassis, so the run was done in a way which I think will allow for the movement without unduly stressing the pipe. I have covered both ends of the pipe above the chassis legs in nylon airline, picture below is before the pipe was pushed into position. care had to be taken to avoid interfering with the EAS pipes.
View attachment 161529
Job done, brakes bled and all seems to be OK. I used Cuppro Nickel pipe which proved to be a real bugger to flare, it kept splitting. I thought it must be me or the flaring tool but all was fine on copper and steel. I got there in the end.
Whilst under the car, I treated the worst of the rust, but the underside really needs pressure washing there is an amazing amount of mud under there.
I was pleased to see the Arnott Gen II's still look like new after 8 years.
View attachment 161530
Just got to replace the corroded trailer socket and do an oil change and it will be back on the road.
I'll try the tractor repair shops over here first
