Classic Fuel pump relay question

The car died a couple of days ago and I was towed home by a Chevy pickup. Eek!
Presently I am of meager funds and without many of my tools due to them being lost in a drive over a cliff my wife took in the other car. The car and tools are gone but the Doris is well.
So, here's what's not happening. I am not getting any fuel. Relay clicks, a slight and very short whir can be heard from the pump.
I have no volt meter to check the relay. I am wondering if a weak battery may cause the relay to function improperly.
Oh, and how many of you have destroyed a fuel filter trying to get it out? Arrgh!!

absolutely a weak battery may cause the relay to function improperly, and I haven't destroyed a filter yet, come close with the oil filters (well the casing) but not a fuel filter.

That filter needs to be fanesed
Out...haven’t torn one up... but have walked away to get my thoughts....
just for kicks
Spray starter fluid into the plenum
To make sure it will start....

mikieman said:

That filter needs to be fanesed
Out...haven’t torn one up... but have walked away to get my thoughts....
just for kicks
Spray starter fluid into the plenum
To make sure it will start....

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It starts with fuel. I pulled the relay from the '93 and plugged it in. It may be bad, but I doubt it.

To be a bit more clear I did not destroy the filter but rather the threaded compression doodad that is attached to the fuel line and screws into the filter. It was fossilized.

Got the fuel pump removed and put power to it and not a thing moved or made noise. I think the pump is shot. Now to find one. Unfortunately the fuel pumps in my other RRCs don't fit the '95.

Can you put a fly lead from battery to pump and try and power it direct see if it has enough oomph in it?

RangeRoller dt said:

Can you put a fly lead from battery to pump and try and power it direct see if it has enough oomph in it?

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I did and no oomph.
You just don't go a buy one at the auto parts store here in the Merkin Zone. Since the crash of the Nissan we're down to one car so I guess getting to work is off for a bit.

F@@king 2020.

Western Slope Rover said:

I did and no oomph.
You just don't go a buy one at the auto parts store here in the Merkin Zone. Since the crash of the Nissan we're down to one car so I guess getting to work is off for a bit.

F@@king 2020.

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pump produces 34 psi iirc can you get an inline pump and remove the intank pump

jamesmartin said:

pump produces 34 psi iirc can you get an inline pump and remove the intank pump

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Possibly. Right now I am investigating a unit from Rovers North, one of the two major Land Rover parts distributors here. $99.00 dollars and in stock. Others I've looked at were up to $500 bucks! Some are sold as kits and others are bare bones, like the one I'm looking at. The specs say I will need a link lead RNE808, 2 olives RNF136 and two union nuts RNF140.
I can't find reference for those those bits.
Do you know what the are, James, and why I would need them?

British Atlantic has the 95 fuel kit
But I looked closer and it’s out of stock at this time... lol
Bummer

Western Slope Rover said:

Possibly. Right now I am investigating a unit from Rovers North, one of the two major Land Rover parts distributors here. $99.00 dollars and in stock. Others I've looked at were up to $500 bucks! Some are sold as kits and others are bare bones, like the one I'm looking at. The specs say I will need a link lead RNE808, 2 olives RNF136 and two union nuts RNF140.
I can't find reference for those those bits.
Do you know what the are, James, and why I would need them?

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if you can get a proper unit so much the better
you need the 2 nuts and olives nrc9770 and nrc9771 to secure the fuel pipes to the sender/pump unit,rovers north have their own made up numbers instead of using the lr number, i do know of rovers north as the most knowledgeable person on lr parts went to work there in the 90-s from here we used to work together at the reconditioners

mikieman said:

British Atlantic has the 95 fuel kit
But I looked closer and it’s out of stock at this time... lol
Bummer

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Yeah, I started with them.

I don't understand what other parts I need. The pump I removed has the connecting nut to the fuel line attached to it. I am assuming that the described "union nut".

jamesmartin said:

if you can get a proper unit so much the better
you need the 2 nuts and olives nrc9770 and nrc9771 to secure the fuel pipes to the sender/pump unit,rovers north have their own made up numbers instead of using the lr number, i do know of rovers north as the most knowledgeable person on lr parts went to work there in the 90-s from here we used to work together at the reconditioners

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I just got off the phone with them. Now I understand why I couldn't reference the parts.

Western Slope Rover said:

Yeah, I started with them.

I don't understand what other parts I need. The pump I removed has the connecting nut to the fuel line attached to it. I am assuming that the described "union nut".

I just got off the phone with them. Now I understand why I couldn't reference the parts.

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many pumps dont come with the olives or nuts to connect the fuel pipes that have male threaded fittings
steve parker was the guys name it was some time ago so maybe hes long gone

Take a pic so James can see.

P38s should also have the olives changed with new pump but mine had HD flex pipes & jubilee clips already fitted by PO that should outlast the vehicle so didn’t need the connectors.

The gentleman I spoke with also said it needs an adaptive electrical connection RNF133, as well.

The fuel pump and fuel filter finally arrived and I just drove to town and bought some beer. Thanks for the help!

Western Slope Rover said:

. Since the crash of the Nissan we're down to one car so I guess getting to work is off for a bit. F@@king 2020.

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Could have been worse, Doris could have been driving the Classic