I found this on another site hope it helps.
A number of people have reported this problem on this forum with various explanations. I thought it may be worth sharing my experiences. My problems started with losing coolant at an increasing rate, and not finding any external leaks I guessed the head gasket had gone (this cars engine has already been replaced but I wasn't sure if the new engine gasket had been upgraded). Once I had completed the first stage of the strip down I noticed signs of water leaking from the water pump and this was replaced. Since I had already bought the new head gasket and bolts I also continued and fitted it. The existing one was metal but had no head saver shim. My problems really started after I put the thing back together.
Ran like a dog and oil light came on after a few miles. Turned out the rubber coating on the old rocker cover gasket had perished, fallen off and ended up blocking the oil pump strainer - whoever selected the gaskets for this engine has a lot to answer for. I had also managed to put the spark plugs leads back on in the wrong order hence the poor running, the car now ran amazing well, but sounded like a formula 1, but the first time I went further than 10 miles died on me. No warning lights, temperature normal and so suddenly I had barely time to get it onto a verge. Car restarts within a few minites and will drive a few miles and then dies again in the same manner.
I searched this forum for possible reasons. It seems that a few people have reported this problem, and all have different diagnosis. At least one other has experienced the problem after fitting a new head gasket/ head saver shim. Explanations include a blocked fuel filter (although the detail suggested it was the fuel pump strainer that was cleaned), and a blocked exhaust system.
Blocked Exhaust - Not very probable, the back firing from the short time it had been running rough, had blown a large hole in the rear box hence the sporty sound but I patched it, car much quieter and performance dropped back to normal. Still cutting out.
Blocked fuel filter, took the pump out (what idiot thought this was a good place to put a service replacement part?). Some carbon deposit on pump strainer but hardly enough to effect the flow of petrol, the filter was amazingly clean BUT one of the o ring seals to filter appeared to be pushed into a hole too small for it and was folded up. The freelander manual is not clear how this o ring fits. I couldn't work out how to position this o ring to seal the filter and the bore of the spacer, and my first attempt quickly failed, leading to difficult starting and running the engine. I then sealed the inner bore of the spacer with loctite and positioned the o ring on the shoulder of the spacer so that its pushed against the bottom of the filter rather that being pushed up inside the filter, and this seems to work.
Packed up completely yesterday, cough & splutters, and just about ticks over, but no forward umph. I immediately guessed my fix to the filter hadn't worked. As luck would have I was only a couple hundred yards from the local Land Rover Approver Repairer. I explained what the problem, and what I thought was wrong and left it with them. They being approved Land Rover Repairers would know how to fit the fuel filter, yes???
Got a phone call "fuel pressure low, you need a new fuel pump, £279"
Me "thats no good the car is only worth £900, Did you check the fuel filter is fitted properly as I had suggested?"
"No, it isn't a servicable part, you have to replace the whole pump"
me
"but its listed on the service schedule, and the instructions to do it are in the Workshop Manual both published by Land Rover"
them "It isn't seperately replaceable" and on and on
I am going back today with copies of the service schedule, workshop manual, a listing off the web offering the filter for £17, and if they still insist they can't open the pump housing, their copy of a pre-prepared a letter to Land Rover Customer Care and a tow rope.
Went back in the garage asked to speak to the manager and there was an immediate change in attitude when he saw the copies of the service manual. I again explained where I thought the problem was and made it clear I wasn't going to cough for a new pump. The mechanic was apparently at lunch and the manager rang me back later stating it was a all misunderstanding and they would check and change the O rings for £100 including the tme they had already spent on the job. This I agreed to (I'm just a big softy really), and I got a call back asking me to collect the car. They stated that they still thought there may be a problem with the pressure regulator in the pump but it was now running. It drove home perfectly and they included the old oversized o ring in a bag!
I wonder how many Freelander Fuel Pumps are replaced for £200-300 plus labour when all they needed was a 10p O ring?
I am now pretty certain that the original engine cut outs were due to a low (marginal) fuel pressure simply starving the engine of fuel. In my case I suspect this was due to the wrong sized o ring being fitted and causing a leak inside the pump housing, (although it could have been the pressure regulator, clogged filters, splits in the plumbing or the pump failing itself, any of which could give the same symptom). I hope this will help any others who experience this problem.
I intend to check the fuel pressure myself, repair or replace, if I need to and then flog the Freelander with some regrets as it was lovely to drive and actually very well made.
