Fuel line replacement on RRC - hints please

Richard · Jan 24, 2005

Total humour failure now. No sooner do I replace the rear diff than a
leak appears in the fuel line(s) where the chassis passes over the rear
axle. I think someone is trying to tell me something.

In the meantime I'm going to replace the steel pipe(s) with rubber fuel
hose, in a suitable protective sheath, working forward from the tank
until I reach non-rusty steel.

Can anyone add any tips or hints to that approach?

BTW I'm going to start this in about an hour from now (18:30)

The good thing is that the sleet has stopped. The bad thing is that it
has been replaced by drizzle. Still I suppose there's less chance of
the vapour exploding.

Richard :-<

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Lee_D · Jan 24, 2005

"Richard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Total humour failure now. No sooner do I replace the rear diff than a
> leak appears in the fuel line(s) where the chassis passes over the rear
> axle. I think someone is trying to tell me something.
>
> In the meantime I'm going to replace the steel pipe(s) with rubber fuel
> hose, in a suitable protective sheath, working forward from the tank until
> I reach non-rusty steel.
>
> Can anyone add any tips or hints to that approach?
>
> BTW I'm going to start this in about an hour from now (18:30)
>
> The good thing is that the sleet has stopped. The bad thing is that it
> has been replaced by drizzle. Still I suppose there's less chance of the
> vapour exploding.
>
> Richard :-<

Rich.

On ours its a plastic nylon sort of pipe (1990 Diesel) .. Unless you've a
really old Rangie I think yours should be similar. I was told that Rubber is
a no no although I currently have rubber fitted since my rebuild I'm going
to fit the plastic stuff before the MOT. The plastic is also much much
cheaper, not that I'm tight, just an observation.

The plastic also clips nicely back into the pipe carrier.

Of course if yours is a EFI then this may all be totally useless... just my
experience with a diesel for info only.

Lee D

Richard · Jan 24, 2005

Lee_D wrote:

>
>
>
> Rich.
>
> On ours its a plastic nylon sort of pipe (1990 Diesel) .. Unless you've a
> really old Rangie I think yours should be similar. I was told that Rubber is
> a no no although I currently have rubber fitted since my rebuild I'm going
> to fit the plastic stuff before the MOT. The plastic is also much much
> cheaper, not that I'm tight, just an observation.
>
> The plastic also clips nicely back into the pipe carrier.
>
> Of course if yours is a EFI then this may all be totally useless... just my
> experience with a diesel for info only.
>
> Lee D
>
>

Hi Lee,

Sorry I should have said - 88 EFi. steel pipes clipped to chassis, then
rubber pipe between fixed pipework and tank/engine. I spoke to my
normal spanner wielder who said just replace the steel with FI grade
rubber at the breaks. Because of the location of the break(s) I'm
replacing right from the tank forwards to a point roughly under the 'B'
pillar

Where did you source the plastic stuff? And/or what do you ask for? My
MOT is not due until December. Also the rubber hose is the same stuff
used to link the steel to the engine and tank. I am going to put it in
plastic conduit - which is all that is protecting it in the engine bay.

Cheers

Richard

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Lee_D · Jan 24, 2005

"Richard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

> Where did you source the plastic stuff? And/or what do you ask for? My
> MOT is not due until December. Also the rubber hose is the same stuff
> used to link the steel to the engine and tank. I am going to put it in
> plastic conduit - which is all that is protecting it in the engine bay.

I got mine at L & H Brakes and Hoses in Lichfield Street Hanley, Stoke on
Trent. I don't know if they do mail order.

Always good for advice. Initially made the mistake of getting Rubber from
someone who knew no better than me but was happy as usually to take my hard
earned. You live and learn!

Lee D

Tom Woods · Jan 24, 2005

On Mon, 24 Jan 2005 19:45:33 GMT, "Lee_D" <[email protected]> wrote:

>"Richard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>
>> Where did you source the plastic stuff? And/or what do you ask for? My
>> MOT is not due until December. Also the rubber hose is the same stuff
>> used to link the steel to the engine and tank. I am going to put it in
>> plastic conduit - which is all that is protecting it in the engine bay.
>
>I got mine at L & H Brakes and Hoses in Lichfield Street Hanley, Stoke on
>Trent. I don't know if they do mail order.
>
>Always good for advice. Initially made the mistake of getting Rubber from
>someone who knew no better than me but was happy as usually to take my hard
>earned. You live and learn!
>
>Lee D
>
I had to do the fuel lines on my car recently. I went to the local FWB
(engineering/connectors/etc place - www.fwb.co.uk/) and just bought
plastic fuel pipe by the metre. They had a few different sizes
including the 8mm that i needed.
I did the whole lot of my pipe, and reused the old connectors. After
warming the pipe and pushing the connectors in I also crimped them
using some little round things that you clamp on (was told they were
better than little jubilee clips).

If you are not doing all your pipe you can buy all sorts of joinery
bits. The ones that screw together and have olives in are the easiest
in my experience.

Richard · Jan 24, 2005

Thanks Lee and Tom,

I've just finished fitting the rubber fuel lines. The state of the
steel lines as they passed over the axle was shocking - really only the
rust was holding the fuel in. I'll review your suggested sources of
polythene pipe when the weather gets warmer - it did start snowing
halfway through the job. I think that the rubber hoses will do for now.

Does either of you know how the steel hose attaches to the rubber hoses
in the engine compartment on the RR? There's a silvered heat resistant
blanket wrapped round the hoses on my RR so I can't see the junction.

I used fuel pipe clips in place of Jubilee clips. Much better on small
pipes as they are not cursed with the bulky worm drive mechanism.

Cheers

Richard
--
Real email address is RJSavage at BIGFOOT dot COM

The information contained in this post
may not be published in, or used by

http://www.diyprojects.info

Dougal · Jan 25, 2005

> I've just finished fitting the rubber fuel lines. The state of the
> steel lines as they passed over the axle was shocking - really only the
> rust was holding the fuel in. I'll review your suggested sources of
> polythene pipe when the weather gets warmer - it did start snowing
> halfway through the job. I think that the rubber hoses will do for now.
>
> Does either of you know how the steel hose attaches to the rubber hoses
> in the engine compartment on the RR? There's a silvered heat resistant
> blanket wrapped round the hoses on my RR so I can't see the junction.
>
> I used fuel pipe clips in place of Jubilee clips. Much better on small
> pipes as they are not cursed with the bulky worm drive mechanism.
>
> Cheers
>
> Richard

Don't let the 'you can't do this brigade' frighten you off 'rubber' hose
for this application. It has many advantages.

Natural rubber is not a good idea but fuel resistant (usually nitrile)
'rubber' and viton-lined hose is readily available. Gates do a good range:
http://www.gates.com/europe/index.cfm?location_id=2958

Here is one potential UK source - I have no experience of them.
http://www.nfauto.co.uk/gates.htm

Several plastics are not petrol-resistant (particularly to un-leaded).
Nylon is OK but not easy to terminate unless you shrink it onto a metal
tube or join with a short push-on hose connection.

Having once replaced the same pipes that you're working on I appreciate
what a pig of a job it is. At the front end I think it was just a
push-on hose and 'Jubilee' clip.

Tom Woods · Jan 25, 2005

On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 00:16:05 +0000, Dougal
<DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote:

>
>Don't let the 'you can't do this brigade' frighten you off 'rubber' hose
>for this application. It has many advantages.
>
>Natural rubber is not a good idea but fuel resistant (usually nitrile)
>'rubber' and viton-lined hose is readily available. Gates do a good range:
>http://www.gates.com/europe/index.cfm?location_id=2958
>
>Here is one potential UK source - I have no experience of them.
>http://www.nfauto.co.uk/gates.htm

If you use non fuel resitant hose only takes a day or two for it to
fall apart on a range rover. A mate did his with what he was sold as
fuel hose. We went to shift a landy on a trailer and had to stop about
5 times on the way home to bodge bits of pipe up. I dont go to that
shop anymore!

>Having once replaced the same pipes that you're working on I appreciate
>what a pig of a job it is. At the front end I think it was just a
>push-on hose and 'Jubilee' clip.

I think that fuel pipes are a pig to do on most vehicles.

Austin Shackles · Jan 25, 2005

On or around Tue, 25 Jan 2005 09:06:41 +0000, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>On Tue, 25 Jan 2005 00:16:05 +0000, Dougal
><DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>
>>Don't let the 'you can't do this brigade' frighten you off 'rubber' hose
>>for this application. It has many advantages.
>>
>>Natural rubber is not a good idea but fuel resistant (usually nitrile)
>>'rubber' and viton-lined hose is readily available. Gates do a good range:
>>http://www.gates.com/europe/index.cfm?location_id=2958
>>
>>Here is one potential UK source - I have no experience of them.
>>http://www.nfauto.co.uk/gates.htm
>
>If you use non fuel resitant hose only takes a day or two for it to
>fall apart on a range rover. A mate did his with what he was sold as
>fuel hose. We went to shift a landy on a trailer and had to stop about
>5 times on the way home to bodge bits of pipe up. I dont go to that
>shop anymore!
>
>>Having once replaced the same pipes that you're working on I appreciate
>>what a pig of a job it is. At the front end I think it was just a
>>push-on hose and 'Jubilee' clip.
>
>I think that fuel pipes are a pig to do on most vehicles.

copper 8mm microbore heating pipe would make neat rigid fuel pipes - make
sure it's properly clipped on so it can't vibrate, though, or it could
work-harden and crack. You can also, at the ends, use a pipe-flaring tool
to make a bulge in it so that your rubber fuel hose fits nice and tight -
did this on the transmission oil cooler I made for the 110, for where the
flexi oil pipes join on.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Nessun maggior dolore che ricordarsi del tempo felice nella miseria"
- Dante Alighieri (1265 - 1321) from Divina Commedia 'Inferno'

Steve · Jan 25, 2005

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> copper 8mm microbore heating pipe would make neat rigid fuel pipes - make
> sure it's properly clipped on so it can't vibrate, though, or it could
> work-harden and crack. You can also, at the ends, use a pipe-flaring tool
> to make a bulge in it so that your rubber fuel hose fits nice and tight -
> did this on the transmission oil cooler I made for the 110, for where the
> flexi oil pipes join on.
>

Almost exactly what I did, except I used 1/4" copper brake pipe. I got it
from Vehicle Wiring Products who do a range of copper pipe sizes other than
standard 3/16" which is the only size that you normally find at your local
bits shop. The1/4" stuff is a nice snug fit in standard 1/4" id reinforced
nylon fuel hose - the sort you *do* find at Halfords et al. No piddling
about trying to warm it to get the right bends either. You just glare
menacingly at it and it adopts the correct shape.

Steve

Fuel line replacement on RRC - hints please

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