Fuel consumption

I'm not getting good mileage from my 1.8 petreol freelander - it was suggested that I should use injection cleaner alternate months - is that a good idea or should I look for other issues?

Most of my driving is 'combined', should be good run but roadworks and traffic now mean stop start stuff for a few miles and that is where I'm really noticing the probs!

Hi Cathy,
How many miles to the gallon are you getting? Have you noticed it getting worse over time or have you recently brought the car and suffering shock from how thirsty they actually are?
I won't tell you how many miles my 2.5 litre gets to the gallon, you'd laugh and then think yours was great

Hi Mark - I'm only getting about 18 - 20 and it seems to have happened over the last couple of weeks. At first I put it down to the fact that I was thoroughtly cheesed off with the car after having IRD/VC/Diff replaced (cost was !!!), I think the problem with fuel must have come on over the past 3 weeks or so - it's nice to fill the FL up compared to the Disco, but I thinbk I get a lot better consumption whilst towing with the Disco!

Take your point about the V6 - I had a V6 'car' and that did for my bank balance like nothing else!!

That is bad. My V6 gives 19 mpg on average around town.
You could check tyre preasures as this can effect fuel consumption.
Is the Hippo performing any diferent to usual?

On short stop start runs that's about the same mpg we get from our 1.8. Only improves on steady long runs. Imagine it is more to do with strain on underpowered engine getting the lump of a thing going from stationary. I get better overall mpg from the V6 in my vauxhall than wife does is Freelander.

Having now owned a 1.8 Freelander for a couple of weeks now, it does seem to be a very thirsty car.

We "downsized" from a Jeep Cherokee 4.0ltr due to the cost of running a big block yank engine and used to get around 200-miles to a £55 fill-up.
The Landy only seems to be getting around 260 miles to £55 !?

I know measureing MPG based on how much a tank of fuel costs, but I'd expected to be getting in the region of £350. As it stands, the Freelander isn't much more economical than a 4.0ltr Jeep which surely can't be right?

90% of the driving is round town on short start-stop trips which I know doesn't help

The car's in the garage today having the VCU checked out - If this is shot would it increase fuel consumption?
Cheers

Simon G

I think because the 1.8 litre has to work harder it drinks more fuel.
The 4 litre big block is underworked drinking less fuel.

That's my theory anyway

marksurry said:

I think because the 1.8 litre has to work harder it drinks more fuel.
The 4 litre big block is underworked drinking less fuel.

That's my theory anyway

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Thanks for the reply Mark ... I guess the high consumption is normal and nothing to worry about then .

i get about 25/26 miles to the gallon around town and 34/35 on a run ,try this site and calculate it http://www.torquecars.co.uk/Tuning/uk-mpg-calculator.php it seems a bit high and i`m normally loaded up with copper and fittings and things,by the way avoid a/c as this makes things nearer the 20 miles to the gallon

Thanks Smythe

We only have a basic model, so no AC fitted.
I drive a 2.4ltr V6 Audi A6 with an auto box and easily get 33mpg combined (28 around town) - The Freelander feels like a much lighter car so I was surprised it was so thirsty.

As of yesterday my wife knocked her second driver's side door mirror off the flndr so I'm anticipating the mpg to improve as a result of reduced drag coefficient. Another £70 for a mirror unit down the drain!

I agree with Smythe Cathy, A/C is a big culprit for fuel consumption and that's on any make of vehicle. My son had a 1.8 and it was the mpg that made him change, it's not a good vehicle for around town or short runs if the ££'s have to watched.

hope the calulater helps make you know for sure what you are getting,remember also that the 1.8 petrol freelander as about 120 bhp which is good for almost most cars but in a 4x4 that power as to go through the gear box,ird(transfer),diff before it gets anywere near the wheels so power is lost on the way,i personally am happy with the mpg but drive very steady and aviod all this stop/start lark and just try to keep moving at what ever speed and antisipate whats going on ahead of me not around me(that sounds dangerous but you know what i mean )make the journey as smoothe as poss,as anyone tryed any of these fuel savers devisies like the magnets an oil addivties that give better bhp,mpg,etc

I have 2 of those magnet voodoo clamps on my fuel line. I must admit it did seem to make my diesel run a bit smoother although that may be my wishful thinking. I contacted the company that makes them after a month to tell them i had noticed no difference in my MPG and got a full refund and also got to keep the voodoo clamps. After that my MPG did seem to SLIGHTLY improve but nothing to write home about. My personal experience would say - don't bother with them. The 1.8 K does seem to be very thirsty when lugging a Freelander about. My personal approach to inprove the MPG would be to inprove the tune of the engine starting with the induction / exhaust. By gaining a few valuable HP here and there the engine will not need to try as hard and in turn will run more efficiently. If you do not use the Freelander off road have you considered removing the prop shaft? They do run quieter / smoother / faster and use A LOT less fuel when on front wheel drive only.

tinytdi said:

If you do not use the Freelander off road have you considered removing the prop shaft? They do run quieter / smoother / faster and use A LOT less fuel when on front wheel drive only.

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Interesting!
No plans to off-road the car ... Unless my wife get's lost in a field at a Steam Fair of course

What's involved in removing the rear-prop, and is this likely to cause any damage to the rear diff over an extended period?
Thanks

Hi Simon. Now some may disagree with doing this as obviously your are turning your Freelander into a standard front wheel drive setup but it does not cause any problems. On the plus side it will have LOTS more parking ability due to a MUCH IMPROVED full lock on the steering, it will be quieter due to not having a big prop whirring away beneath the car, the economy will be greatly improved due to the engine not having to provide power to the rear / vc etc and the performance will increase noticably. On the downside it will have no drive to the rear and will not handle quite the same. With no drive to the rear the Freelander does understeer a little which may take some getting used to - basically it will have the same handling charachteristics as a front wheel drive car as the rear will not "push" on cornering. There will be no damage to the diff's. To remove its best to first mark the prop's position on each flange at the front and rear so if you put it back it goes back in the same place. Remove bolts at the front into the IRD and the rear into the diff then undo the bolts holding the carrier bearings to the floorpan. Be careful - the VC unit weighs a ton!!! Stick the entire assembly in the garage until needed and off you go. It should take you 20 mins to remove and is easily done with the vehicle parked with one side on the kerb to gain clearence underneath. Give it a go and if its not to your liking "refitting is the reverse of removal". Just remember to line the marks up you made earlier on the flanges.

Thanks for the advice!
So the only component that is removed is the VCU itself?

We're still getting used to the car, so I'll keep it 4x4 for now, but may well do this if the rear clunk gets any worse etc.

No. Personally I would remove the lot. You can just remove the front section but I find it best to take the lot off in one go. regarding the cluinks though - would it not be best to find out what is causing it?

Before taking any of the drive bits off I would check with the insurance company, as you may find you are making the vehicle totally illegal to be on the road. eg, switchable 4WD vehicles are designed to operate safely in 2WD or 4WD, but the Freelander is designed to be in permanent 4WD ( I know 75% of the drive is to the front ) and by removing the drive to the rear could make the vehicle in terms of the law dangerous, as you have altered the handling set up, it's a bit like having the wrong size wheels or tyres, so have a check before making any changes.

Is it not beyond the wit of man to make a 'switchable' system???

I really dont know what is involved in doing this so feel free to flame me / call a spanner etc. (like anybody on here ever need an invite )

Just wondered how easy it would be??