Front Near Side Light

Evening.

Just been trying to sort out my Dipped Beam, thought bulb went.

Replaced it with a new one to no avail. The red cap seems to connect ok

onto the bulb fine, but still does not work. Did the obvious and swapped

bulb over to the other side and it worked fine.

So it has to be the power coming down the wire to the red cap.

Bulb using is ds2 d2s HID's.

Looked in the book and didn't mention fuse for Near Side left, but if it was a fuse Offside would not work ?

• Is it safe to whack a Volt tester in the cap to test for current, or we talking high voltage and do not do it. I heard some stories of people frying a finger or two.

• Where does the wire come from if I have to chase it. Maybe its split fractured or something I could chase and poke the Voltage pointers in the wire. So I suppose I am asking for a Diagram location, I did have a look, to no avail.

Any pointers would be great

Ta

Rich

DO NUT USE A VOLT METER ANYWHERE NEAR THE HID SYSTEM.....

Swap the ballast units over and see if the fault follows....

No fuses for the lamps as they are switched via the LCM.

What's 28,000 volts among friends?

holidaychicken said:

What's 28,000 volts among friends?

View attachment 71548

Click to expand...

Toasty ...

28,000 volts that will make your hair stand on end.

brianp38dse said:

28,000 volts that will make your hair stand on end.

Click to expand...

3036 fuse and a kettle lead won't give you a massive erection-however flash burns and smell of pork cooking is a risk.

Had a few 240v shocks with work, livens you up abit gives a nice tingle

I thought so... I had an idea it would cook me. 28,000 hmm if it did give me an erection it would poke my eye out lol.


Ok I wont ask the obvious, like what's the BALLAST. I will google it lol.

Feel free to tell me lol

~Cheers for that JPEG, cant open it IE11 crap I will use FireFox

Ta


Rich

The ballast unit is what strikes the arc in the lamp using 28,000V....

It is mounted on the back of the headlamp unit.

Swap them from one side to the other and see if the fault follows the ballast swap...if it does, it is the ballast unit if the fault remains on the original side it is the wiring to the ballast from the LCM or from the ballast to HID bulb.

Just got educated. The Ballast is the Black cap with the Volt Z on it with the red part of the cap with slots for the bayonet to connect to the light.

The Ballast is wired straight into the head light, not from what I have been told an after market. So not sure how/if I can remove them, as the wire goes into the Ballast. I will go check. Doesn't look like I can switch

See Attached

Just been told by some bloke that I would have to go to main dealer and pay 400-500 for whole new unit

Bloody hope not

Ta

Rich

You can switch them, the control unit and ballast unit is the silver box bolted on the back of the headlamp unit and the black box is the ballast unit.

As photo...

Thanks Saint that looks self explanatory.

Would I be able to remove and swap, In-place with cap removed or would I have to take the whole light out as in picture.

AND.... as per you first notes..... AT WHAT POINT DO I GET FRIED"""

Can you buy these Boxes, without having to purchase the entire Head Lamp

Ta again

Rich

In that picture you added is it

headlight control ECU

AS I was looking at a headlight price and they said it comes without the headlight control ECU

Ta

Rich

All done

Ballast pack or Control box replaced and because of the wires and Ballast black pack I had to unclip the lens and put all that in too. Bit fiddly mind, got there in the end. Only did it for completeness as just the Ballast Control box did the job on its own.

All pretty easy.

All working now.

Cheers all