Front Hub Nut Disco 1 TDi

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
S

Stottie

New Member
Posts
36
Can anyone help with the size of the front outer hub nut. the one that you need to remove to take the hub assembly and brake disc unit off.

I need to change my brake disc's and pads but not sure if I have a socket large enough for the job.

Cheers
Dave (Stottie)
 
I found it not necessary to torque Landrover hub nuts up to a specified torque, and got better results from 'feel'. Basically make sure all bearings are fully home before assembly, tighten up very tightly whilst turning the bearings/hub assembly, back off a full turn, then come in again until it bites fully again and back off about 1/8th of a turn ... ish .. :)

I know there are torques specified to tighten to, but Landrover themselves show this tool (well, very similar at least) in the workshop manual.
 
Paul D said:
I found it not necessary to torque Landrover hub nuts up to a specified torque, and got better results from 'feel'. Basically make sure all bearings are fully home before assembly, tighten up very tightly whilst turning the bearings/hub assembly, back off a full turn, then come in again until it bites fully again and back off about 1/8th of a turn ... ish .. :)

I know there are torques specified to tighten to, but Landrover themselves show this tool (well, very similar at least) in the workshop manual.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this advice too Paul - top bloke!
 
No worries.

Don't forget the tab washer, and to tighten the locknut up fully, and spin the wheel/hub to check it isn't binding before bending the tabs.
 
wished id have known this last week, changed the rear hub seals and the bearings while i was at it i screwed the nut on and checked for play and tightened the nut 2 faces of the nut and the washer lined up (if ya know what i mean) hope that'll be ok.... seems ok :(
 
Heheheh, might be OK Nathan .. First time you tighten the inner nut is really to make sure all bearing races are seated and square/perpendicular to shaft, hence why you also turn the hub assembly as you do it .. do it really tight (LR say 60+NM, but using a hubnut and tommy bar very tightly works out near enough this) then back off, tighten again and back off 1/8th, gives just enough float to the bearings without allowing wheel wobble.

After a run feel the wheel/hub area for heat .. if it's really hot you may have overtightened the bearing or not seated it correctly. I know there's always some heat there from brake discs, but you're feeling for excessive (very hot!!) heat ... ;)
 
Haynes offer 2 completely different procedures and specifications depending on chassis number.

Early: The first nut is done to endfloat rather than torque, the 2nd (locking) nut is 45 lbft.

Late, 45lbft, then loosen right off and then retighten to just 3lbft. 45 again for the locking nut.

For newmoney wrenches 45lbft is 61Nm and 3lbft is 4Nm.
 
Quick tip mate when you get the hub off instead of rolling around the yard trying to undo those disc bolts lay your wheel down on the yard and put your hub back onto the wheel dont need wheelnuts the wheels weight will allow you to undo and remove the old discs.Then fit your discs and retighten the new discs back up.
cheers wodge
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
Hub nut stuck
Replies
18
Views
993
tottot
tottot
G
Defender 110 brake callipers
Replies
5
Views
575
Groaning Hippo
G
cornish rattler
Half shaft nut retaining clips
Replies
8
Views
828
tottot
tottot
L
Parts recomendation for L320 brakes
Replies
0
Views
707
LemonRRS
L
hoopfish
Freelander 2 (LR2) Hub Bearing/upright assembly removal
Replies
1
Views
790
I like chips
I
Back
Top