Front end knocking

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currymunster

currymunster

Well-Known Member
Posts
803
Location
Folkestone, Kent.
300Tdi 1995 110 CSW

Noticed a knocking at car park speeds earlier today. Got progressively worse through out the day.

Had a look underneath and nothing obvious. Happened to rock front wheels while on the deck and noticed some play (wheel bearing?) on both sides.

Did fit new calipers and discs 2 months ago for MOT. Even bought new lock taps and new bearing lock nuts!

Jacked up when home and sure play on both wheels but a clonking when rotating at about the same place I thinks.

Could the bearings have come loose ?
I'm sure I did them right????

Help It sounds like the axle is gonna fall off when driving!!
 
You might have a worn c v joint they can get real noisy usually worse when wheels are locked to one side !! Jack op the front and turn wheel to check diff etc and you should find your culprit !! Worth pulling off the propshaft to properly check your uj joints these can sound very bad but seem ok on vehicle !!! Good luck
 
ferretboy said:
You might have a worn c v joint they can get real noisy usually worse when wheels are locked to one side !! Jack op the front and turn wheel to check diff etc and you should find your culprit !! Worth pulling off the propshaft to properly check your uj joints these can sound very bad but seem ok on vehicle !!! Good luck
Click to expand...

Funnily enough I've been running with no front prop due to a knackered U/J.
Just refitted it about 8 days ago with two brand spanking new U/j's all greased up with my new grease gun :D

Don't think it will be them but you could be right about C/V's or diff. No idea how to check diff but C/v is hard turn to see if clicks ??

Pretty sure the clonking I'm hearing is the same clonk as when turning the wheel so that cold point to bearing or C/v I suppose.
 
lazydog said:
Check your wheel nuts I had the same noise yesterday got the jack out to check and 4 wheel nuts where loose---
Click to expand...

You had me worried then so I just checked them and they are all tight to 100nm
Pretty sure the play is worse when on deck - Confused why both sides have play - Would both bearings go at same time - Chance in how many to 1??
 
Did you tighten the wheel bearings up tight, then back off a 1/4 turn ?

Not unusual for wheel bearings to "bed in" or if the locking washer not properly holding nut's come slightley loose and need nipping up again.

Knocking could be so many things, Radius arm, panhard,trailing arm bushes, A frame ball joint.

Mine was making a slight knock last week so I got one of me sprogs to rock her while i was underneath to trace the noise. Turned out to be the bolts that had come loose on one side of the A Frame where it bolts to the chassis.Nylon locking nuts were knackered !
 
When I did calipers and discs I did not replace bearings with new. I just cleaned up old ones and greased them up.

I did make the mistake of removing the free play without the wheel fitted.

When I fitted the wheel I noticed more play so I had to undo it all and re-tighten the bearing with the wheel fitted.

How do I rule out the diff? - When I refitted the prop shaft I noticed about an inch and a half rotational ply on front diff flange but thought that was normal?
 
currymunster said:
When I did calipers and discs I did not replace bearings with new. I just cleaned up old ones and greased them up.

I did make the mistake of removing the free play without the wheel fitted.

When I fitted the wheel I noticed more play so I had to undo it all and re-tighten the bearing with the wheel fitted.

How do I rule out the diff? - When I refitted the prop shaft I noticed about an inch and a half rotational ply on front diff flange but thought that was normal?
Click to expand...
you should be able to remove free play with wheel off ,seal with having a dirt lip can maqke it feel like youve removed free play but havent ,diff normally gives whine on overrun first unless diff pin uis wearing through carrier you can check by looking through filler hole with a torch and wheel up so you can rotate diff to right position
 
jamesmartin said:
you should be able to remove free play with wheel off ,seal with having a dirt lip can maqke it feel like youve removed free play but havent ,diff normally gives whine on overrun first unless diff pin uis wearing through carrier you can check by looking through filler hole with a torch and wheel up so you can rotate diff to right position
Click to expand...

Can't say I've noticed a whine. What is "Overrun"? When you say a dirty seal do you mean the oil seal on back of hub/disc?
Clonks from inside hub somewhere I think when jacked up and spinning wheel.

Did take it down a narrow green lane yesterday which had a few roots to step over???
 
Just got in from checking and it was the bearings.
All tightened up now with no free play.

Used to taper bearings and think I was a bit scared of doing them to tight.

Is there a torque for the bearing hub nut as I did have to give it a bit of welly.

Seems to be a clicking noise still from inside hub on N/S/F - could that be an early indication of C/V wear??

Thanks for your help Everyone
 
Mine is the type with 2 nuts and the washer you have to bend. Hand tighten the first nut, spin wheel to settle grease, hand tighten, spin, rinse and repeat until no play. Once happy, stick the washer on and tighten the second nut up tight. A good two grunts tight. Then do the tab bit. Then in a week or so jack it up and check for play just incase the grease has 'settled' more.
 
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