Disco 2 Front Electric Sun Roof - Not Working - have tried!

@Vanmancan - yep, having another go following lots of encouragement. I'm going to check the power feed from the loom to the motor, and also the microswitch as advised above. When I took it apart initially by un-bolting the plastic bush / bearing end and gave it a clean, I couldn't get the shaft/rotor to come out of the casing - was this the case for you? Is it held in place with a captive bearing?

Feathers McGraw said:

Good job it arrived in a boring looking jiffy bag

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I'm slowly building up to the "big roof removal" project, so stockpiling likely parts and materials, I'll add Captain Tolley's to the inventory. Having already tackled the initial removal of the visors and front map trays , feeling less intimidated about the full removal. I'd settle for no leaks and confidence in the drains being attached etc... but equally to be 100% of that, the lining needs to be dropped.... so I'll have a bash at everything over a few weekends.

Get front sunroof working
Check both for drains operational on both roofs
Remove and reseal sunroof frames to body - Tigerseal
Check A-Pillar for leaks (Captain Tolly's Creaping Crack Cure)
Check body seam above rear door (Captain Tolley)
Check connections to GPS Antenna and get operational.
Check and clean connections to remote fob receiver for c-locking
Remove saggy cloth, clean liner and then return.

Hi @GJ1


Not sure of you have seen this? Although he does not go so far to remove the whole frame and reseal onto the outside of the roof, which I would suggest having gone this far and found that was the fault on mine.

Cheers

neilly said:

Hi @GJ1


Not sure of you have seen this? Although he does not go so far to remove the whole frame and reseal onto the outside of the roof, which I would suggest having gone this far and found that was the fault on mine.

Cheers

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Super helpful @neilly - seen a few of these walk-throughs and it strikes me that it's more about being methodical and applying care! Does anyone foresee any problems running the vehicle with the lining out? My only fear would be the volumetric alarm sensors and the range of "dangling" cables and trim etc setting the horn off...... Can get round that with key locking rather than alarming via the remote. Reason I ask is my usual optimistic timeline of "one good day" to do the job will inevitably reveal jobs and parts that were not planned and need to be sourced.

neilly said:

Hi @GJ1


Not sure of you have seen this? Although he does not go so far to remove the whole frame and reseal onto the outside of the roof, which I would suggest having gone this far and found that was the fault on mine.

Cheers

Click to expand...

@neilly - off thread but how's things with starting the D2 and the clutch on the 300tdi?

GJ1 said:

@neilly - off thread but how's things with starting the D2 and the clutch on the 300tdi?

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Thanks for asking, Well, I ran out of time with the 300tdi, and as I am away over the next few weeks, the Old Man is getting it in the Garage, they are going to let him know what the issue is. Unless the used MC I fitted off the old spare D1 was also knackered then I strongly suspect it is internal to the bellhousing. I will be getting the fuel filter housing today for rhe D2, but again will not get a chance to fit until Monday, so updates will be then I suppose.

But off to Billing this weekend in the 90, so am not going to worry about any of that....

Cheers

GJ1 said:

Super helpful @neilly - seen a few of these walk-throughs and it strikes me that it's more about being methodical and applying care! Does anyone foresee any problems running the vehicle with the lining out? My only fear would be the volumetric alarm sensors and the range of "dangling" cables and trim etc setting the horn off...... Can get round that with key locking rather than alarming via the remote. Reason I ask is my usual optimistic timeline of "one good day" to do the job will inevitably reveal jobs and parts that were not planned and need to be sourced.

Click to expand...

I ran mine for a few days with no lining, had no problems with it. Tbh, cannot remember what I did with the volumetrics, I may have left them disconnected.

Cheers

neilly said:

I ran mine for a few days with no lining, had no problems with it. Tbh, cannot remember what I did with the volumetrics, I may have left them disconnected.

Cheers

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Thanks for that... just about to order the replacement lining kit from Martrim...

GJ1 said:

@Vanmancan - yep, having another go following lots of encouragement. I'm going to check the power feed from the loom to the motor, and also the microswitch as advised above. When I took it apart initially by un-bolting the plastic bush / bearing end and gave it a clean, I couldn't get the shaft/rotor to come out of the casing - was this the case for you? Is it held in place with a captive bearing?

Click to expand...

Yes it just all pull apart , just keep a eye on the 2 little spring bushes as you remove it , im racking my brain trying to remember how i got it back in past the two bushes , think there was a way to remove springs and push the bushes back so you could push the motor shaft back in , but as i did this a few years ago now not 100% , but its still working today so worth a go .

GJ1 said:

but equally to be 100% of that, the lining needs to be dropped.... so I'll have a bash at everything over a few weekends.

Click to expand...

When you drop the headlining it's wider than the rear door and needs to go through at an angle. I found it easier with the rear seats folded flat and the fronts moved as far forward as possible and the backs dropped down as far as they will go.

Vanmancan said:

Yes it just all pull apart , just keep a eye on the 2 little spring bushes as you remove it , im racking my brain trying to remember how i got it back in past the two bushes , think there was a way to remove springs and push the bushes back so you could push the motor shaft back in , but as i did this a few years ago now not 100% , but its still working today so worth a go .

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Yep, got the white plastic end off the casing and shaft, but couldn't get the actual shaft out of the metal casing. When putting the white plastic bush housing back on, I found a really small lip in the plastic which could hold the springs back off the bush so they were not being pushed against the shaft, and just pulled the bushes back out of the way carefully using the branded connection.

Feathers McGraw said:

When you drop the headlining it's wider than the rear door and needs to go through at an angle. I found it easier with the rear seats folded flat and the fronts moved as far forward as possible and the backs dropped down as far as they will go.

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Good call thank you - however my plans for that this weekend have been scuppered by a massive alternator fail a few hours ago whilst down in Kent..... got to see all the dashboard lights come on in sequence, first the charge light, then the air suspension lights, then the Three Amigos, then the SRS Airbag, followed by S+M. Then for a moment I thought all was well as all the lights went off.... but then I realised that the fuel, temp, tachometer and speedo had all stopped working as well - that was around 30 seconds before the engine, brakes and steering all gave up...... Absolutely brilliant AA man out diagnosing a 95amp current to earth through the alternator..... anyway, I'm now back home in London, car in a garage in Canterbury so no roof fun for me this weekend!

Can never describe a Landy as being boring! Hope you get it sorted with minimum anguish.

Feathers McGraw said:

Can never describe a Landy as being boring! Hope you get it sorted with minimum anguish.

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Agreed! Who wants a boring car? Cheers for the good wishes... hope it's the cost of the new alternator and a couple of hours labour..... when the baby battery was dropped in to get me back, everything except the charge light went out, so maybe got off lightly!