Freelander 1 front dics and pads

hi all done rear brakes and drums a few weeks ago did front pads and discs today bit of a pain well rusted up but got job done one and a half hours not bad price of flee bay

Excellent
This thread;
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...freelander-today.199594/page-356#post-3902342
Was set up so we could all blow our trumpet about how absolutely fantastically brilliant we are.

We also sometimes admit to catastrophic failures as well

Mike

beno1 said:

hi all done rear brakes and drums a few weeks ago did front pads and discs today bit of a pain well rusted up but got job done one and a half hours not bad price of flee bay

Click to expand...

Skinny Mike said:

Excellent
This thread;
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...freelander-today.199594/page-356#post-3902342
Was set up so we could all blow our trumpet about how absolutely fantastically brilliant we are.

We also sometimes admit to catastrophic failures as well

Mike

Click to expand...

Whilst I have your attention on this issue. I recently tried to remove the rear hubs off my '55' plate Freelander TD4.
Took the wheels off and removed the two screws that hold hubs on. The hub didn't budge. Am I right in thinking that I need to smack it with a hammer to get them off. Please advise.

Yes, use a rubber mallet if possible and whack the cr@p out of the hub
If you only have a metal hammer, put an old bit of wood on the hub.
Mike

Colonial said:

Whilst I have your attention on this issue. I recently tried to remove the rear hubs off my '55' plate Freelander TD4.
Took the wheels off and removed the two screws that hold hubs on. The hub didn't budge. Am I right in thinking that I need to smack it with a hammer to get them off. Please advise.

Click to expand...

Skinny Mike said:

Yes, use a rubber mallet if possible and whack the cr@p out of the hub
If you only have a metal hammer, put an old bit of wood on the hub.
Mike

Click to expand...

We are talking drum here right?

Mine were a pain, it is perseverance till they shift. The wheels are difficult to budge as well sometimes!

yes back drums were a pain brought shoes of with them

It's easier to remove the drum of the MY01 onwards, if the adjuster is backed off first. This is done by flicking the adjuster cam round, though the hole in the back plate.

Has anyone got photos? my MY2004 FL1 has started having the rear brakes sieze in the morning - it used to only be if I left the handbrake on overnight, but now it happens even if I leave the car in gear over night with the handbrake off. I'm guessing there is a massive lip on the brake surface that the shoes are sticking to, which means removal is going to be 'interesting'. Should I buy drums and shoes only or will I need adjusters and fitting kit too?

Skinny Mike said:

Yes, use a rubber mallet if possible and whack the cr@p out of the hub
If you only have a metal hammer, put an old bit of wood on the hub.
Mike

Click to expand...

GrumpyGel said:

We are talking drum here right?

Mine were a pain, it is perseverance till they shift. The wheels are difficult to budge as well sometimes!

Click to expand...

beno1 said:

yes back drums were a pain brought shoes of with them

Click to expand...

Nodge68 said:

It's easier to remove the drum of the MY01 onwards, if the adjuster is backed off first. This is done by flicking the adjuster cam round, though the hole in the back plate.

Click to expand...

Yes, I meant drums. So, I should undo the two screws and give them a whack with the rubber mallet? They need to come off so that I can clean them and paint them.

Nodge68 said:

It's easier to remove the drum of the MY01 onwards, if the adjuster is backed off first. This is done by flicking the adjuster cam round, though the hole in the back plate.

Click to expand...

Nodge68.
I'll get back to you on this advice soon.

Also on topic, I was replacing the disks on a 02 Freelander last year and couldn't get the old ones off. No matter how hard I hit them with a mallet they weren't for shifting so instead of just hitting them harder I did this.


I cut the outer part of the disk with an angle grinder, then put a chisel in the slot and bashed it. It only took a couple of thumps before the disk split right down the middle and was then easy to take off.
Turned out they were so corroded on the inside they had swollen to the point were they had no intention of shifting so without my method I suspect I would have done harm getting them off.

strange things happen bought this td4 2001 with a bad propshaft bearing will do this tomorrow as said in first thred did all braks and egr valve when I was bringing her home from Scotland had bit of a hard time getting it in gear after doing these miner repares gear box now sound ? was told new cluch 2012 new new master cylinder and new concentric cylinder all bills so should be good for another 50.000 I hope

after all this work to get it ready for mot 3 omegoes are on and speedo not working properly ?

Get the codes read!

The drum will almost certainly have a lip on it where the shoes have worn the metal.

I took some advice from the Haynes manual: it the brim still had plenty of meat in it, I removed the lip with a half-round metal file, which should make pad renewal that little bit easier

beno1 said:

after all this work to get it ready for mot 3 omegoes are on and speedo not working properly ?

Click to expand...

Probably a wheel sensor. Get the codes read to see which one it is.

thanks will do