Front Crank Seal

Hi everyone, hope you all had a nice Christmas, despite of any car problems.

I am going to change the front crank seal this week, has anyone got any tips for this job, I have read the instructions on the Rave Cd and on Range Rover net but just wanted to know any tips for getting the pulley off.

Many thanks

Put it in low gear, get the missus (Or someone elses) to stand on the footbrake pedal and HEAVE on the pulley bolt. The bolt will come out, the pulley should slide off by hand. prise the seal out and fit the new one using a suitable socket to drive it in square. TIP-give the seal lip a good smear of oil first.
Refit the bolt/washer and tighten up to correct torque.

Thanks very much for the advice, I'll give it a go and ask the missus for her help

Matt

Hi

Tried it today and unfortunately the pulley still kept spinning when I was trying to undo the bolt, are there any other ways or do you know if you can hire the tool for holding the pulley?

Many thanks

you may have to make or buy the appropiate tool,i call it a hocky stick it,s a big flat piece of steel with a hole big enough to fit the socket through and there are 2 pins one either side of the hole,the pins fit into 2 locating holes on the pully,that way you can lock the pully while you remove the bolt.
or failing that remove the starter motor,and wedge a big flathead screwdriver or prybar in the flywheel,i personaly don,t like to do that incase the flywheel gets damaged,i do know landrover charge around £140 to do the front crank seal !

Hi Andy

Many thanks I'll start hunting for a strong piece of steel and make a tool to do the job.

Try putting the car in low range, first gear with the handbrake on-engine switched off of course!!

Auto or Manual Transmission???

Hi

Managed to do it thankfully, I also read that some people wrap their serpentine belt and double it up and then undo it, so tried it that way with an old belt though thankfully that worked.

Its weird but you get a sense of satisfaction when you know you have cracked it and it starts to turn without anything snapping or rounding off the bolt etc

Replaced the seal and have checked it and taken it for a small run without any leaks thankfully.

What do you reckon as it seemed to of started when a couple of weeks ago driving to work it started to overheat, stopped imediately and waited to cool down checked water etc started again but it was getting hot again so called the breakdown recovery, he checked it and said either I had an air lock (I did change the thermostat recently too so it possible) or the water pump. He did check if the pressure was their as I was thinking Head Gasket immediately but he said seemed good. I have changed the water pump just in case anyway but due to it getting hot do you reckon thats why the crank seal started leaking?

Hi ZZR

Its an auto

Thanks to everyone for their advice

Engine overheating without water loss can be caused by radiator problems (Common).
Severe overheating could cause seal failure, but more than likely it's coincidence-P38's are like that. Bit like buses really-none for ages then one after the other as far as faults are concerned!

iv seen a clip on you tube where they use the starter motor to undo the bolt the wrench must be straped to something strong!! and the stop solinoid desingaged as to not let the motor run it worked well

Hi Defender

Yes I saw that, but I didn't want to risk that incase anything screwed up :fighting:

And knowing my luck it would