front axle Q

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
kyotekid67

kyotekid67

New Member
Posts
117
Location
Weston-Super-Mud, North Somerset
while stripping the n/s front axle down to replace the swivel seal on my classic R/R, I have almost got it stripped, and have noticed the hub rocks from top to bottom on the swivel pins:confused: do I need to replace any bits while I have it apart ???
 
How far have you got it stripped down? Are the top swivel pin retaining bolts loose? Once you start stripping everything gets loose quickly until it's all back together again.

Was it loose before you started? If not then it's probably ok.

As for replacing anything, while you're down there as it were!, you could replace all the bearings, depends how far you want to go, and how worn anything is. Up to you really! I'd do the swivel bearings if you're doing the seals.

Check the wheel bearings but should be ok. Put it all back together and get the swivel preload set right and all should be fine...
 
blackvoguebeauty said:
How far have you got it stripped down? Are the top swivel pin retaining bolts loose? Once you start stripping everything gets loose quickly until it's all back together again.

Was it loose before you started? If not then it's probably ok.

As for replacing anything, while you're down there as it were!, you could replace all the bearings, depends how far you want to go, and how worn anything is. Up to you really! I'd do the swivel bearings if you're doing the seals.

Check the wheel bearings but should be ok. Put it all back together and get the swivel preload set right and all should be fine...
Click to expand...

I just need to remove the bottom 2 swivel pin bolts to remove the hub, yes the top 2 bolts are loose as i removed these to release the brake pipe bracket, it just seems the bottom pin feels worn/wobbly even though i haven't removed the 2 lower bolts yet.
 
kyotekid67 said:
I just need to remove the bottom 2 swivel pin bolts to remove the hub, yes the top 2 bolts are loose as i removed these to release the brake pipe bracket, it just seems the bottom pin feels worn/wobbly even though i haven't removed the 2 lower bolts yet.
Click to expand...

Ah I see. Yes mate, as soon as you loosen those top bolts the whole lot feels loose, even if the bottom ones are still tight, nothing to worry about. Like Irishrover said, you may as well replace the bearings while you're there. Places like Paddocks etc. sell kits with all the bits you need.

Good luck with it.
 
If the bolts are loosened on one of the spigot brackets this will release the compression on the taper roller bearings and make the chrome ball seem sloppy. I take it you are going to replace the chrome ball (If pitted) and large wiper seal being as you are taking the trouble to strip it down.
 
Did you know that if you don't want to use oil because of the possibility of leaks, that you can get a measured sachet of special grease from both main stealers or independant parts suppliers to put in instead. This mod has been available for a few years now and days of leaking swivels have gone.:):):):)
 
When you reassemble the swivel bearings and shims for the bearing preload make sure that you do not have the bearings preloaded too tight. Check with a spring balance if you have, or can borrow one as per the instructions in RAVE. If you do not have the info. to hand, PM me and I will let you have it.
 
Right, I have come to the bit where I refit the shims, and noticed when I stripped it down that there were no shims on the bottom swivel pin, is this correct, or do I need to fit 1, if so what thickness???
Also I have read in the R/R purchase and restoration guide that preload should be 12lbs :eek: is this correct :confused: :confused: I read/heard elsewhere it should be 2-3lbs.
Can anyone supply me with the correct figure ????
 
Right.... The shims fit on to the top swivel pin only. There is a joint washer (Paper gasket) fitted to the bottom swivel pin. There is no joint washer on the top swivel pin. Both RAVE and Haynes give the preload as 2.5-3lbs pull (1.16-1.46Kgs). If you intend filling the swivel with oil, I suggest you give the lower swivel pin bolts a dab of either Loctite 242 or Lock & Seal to prevent oil seeping past the threads...we don't want a Rangie that drips oil do we???????????
Any more queries just shout.
 
The sachet of grease is the correct amount for one swivel assembly. Smear the chrome ball and taper roller bearings and liberally lash it on to the joint etc. inside the ball ensuring that it's all used. When you drive the car, it will get flung around the moving parts.
 
Bit slow in doing the job, been busy elsewhere.

I have put the swivel ball back onto the front axle, and assembled everything else, but wondered how I can manage to torque up the six bolts holding the ball onto the axle, as there is no room to get a socket and torque wrench onto the bolts.
Any suggestions???
 
kyotekid67 said:
Bit slow in doing the job, been busy elsewhere.

I have put the swivel ball back onto the front axle, and assembled everything else, but wondered how I can manage to torque up the six bolts holding the ball onto the axle, as there is no room to get a socket and torque wrench onto the bolts.
Any suggestions???
Click to expand...
Use a spanner and some thread lock then tighten them up;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
P38 NSR wheel bearing help needed
Replies
5
Views
514
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
Officerdibble
Swivel housing inner gasket
Replies
7
Views
447
Def90man
Def90man
C
P38 Rear N/S wheel bearing replacement
Replies
1
Views
380
RangeRoller dt
RangeRoller dt
A
Disco 1 swivel pin
Replies
6
Views
984
Anaconda
A
D
L322 Front Suspension Arms
Replies
10
Views
760
kermit_rr
kermit_rr
Back
Top