Freelander2 SD4 2014

fashratty said:

Hello and Good day to everyone,
I have a 2013 FL2 for about 18 months, which I purchased for my wife, however, I've been driving the FL2 because it's
such a great vehicle, I've now bought another FL2 SD4 2014 Metropolitan but with a major engine problem from a friend
in the car trade.
So I have been told that the 2.2 engine is basically a Ford Transit engine and the only item that is different on the engine is
the sump, everything else is the same?
Therefore, I will need the buy a new crankshaft, mains etc etc and it's this point that I need clarifying before I proceed to purchase
the correct parts, because I believe that to buy a new crankshaft for the FL2 will be more expensive from Land Rover than buying one for a transit
from a Ford main dealer. So, is my assumption correct or incorrect, please?

My next question is, I've removed quite a few engines and gearboxes over the years, but never on a transverse engine and gearbox
setup, so I'm looking for some help from you guys regarding the best way to remove the engine and any pointers to watch out for,
would be very much appreciated.

Kind regards

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Nodge68 said:

You're best off posting in the general Freelander section, rather than the engine forum, as the general Freelander forum gets much more traffic than this one.

As to the question of which Ford used this engine, I don't believe the transit does. It's not a Ford engine either, it's a PSA engine, a PSA DW12. It is used in a couple of Ford models, the 2.2 D Galaxy and MK V 2.2 D Mondeo.

It's also used in the Jaguar XF 2.2 D, 2.2 D RR Evoque, LR Discovery sport 2.2 D, and many Peugeot and Citroën models, including some vans.

Be aware that there are many vacancies between the different engine installations, far more differences than just the sump.

A new crankshaft will be seriously expensive regardless of where you buy it, I don't actually think LR sell it separately.

Your best bet is to simply get a replacement engine from a similar specification JLR vehicle, as those are pretty much all the same.

If you're leaving the tranny in place, the engine comes out the top. However if you're removing the tranny, the engine comes out the bottom, complete with subframe, suspension and drive shafts, but you will need to separate the propshaft from the PTU, and steering rack from the column. Obviously don't turn the column or move the rack once disconnected, or the steering calibration will be out, and possibly damage the clock spring.

Also many of the bolts used are single use bolts, so factor in the cost of these single use bolts before starting the job.

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fashratty said:

Hello Nodge68,
Thank you for the very useful information and looking at the options, I think I might take the engine only out which would seem the easier route.
Once I have the engine out I will check how good/bad the crank is and look for a new crankshaft or have my one re-grinded depending on how much scoring on the crank.

Thank you again for your help.

Kind Regards

Tony

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