Freelander 1 freelander td4 crud on inlet ports

Ok, test1 passed there is no crankcase high pressure. There is oil everywhere on the post-turbo hoses which I replaced with silicone ones days ago.
It is almost certain the turbo is sending too much oil. I purchased a ref one right now, if it proves that the change is not actually needed I will resell it with some loss and call it a day.

Can somebody confirm please these hoses go to ird? If not what are these for? they look quite dodgy I would like to replace them.

websun said:

It is almost certain the turbo is sending too much oil.

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Sounds like to compressor housing oil seal is leaking too much.

websun said:

Can somebody confirm please these hoses go to ird? If not what are these for? they look quite dodgy I would like to replace them.
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Those are the fuel cooler feed and return pipes.

Thank you Nodge68, seems like they only sell the fuel cooler as assembly. And it's very expensive...

websun said:

I'm afraid I do not understand... you said disconnect the breather hose but then be sure you connect it. Is that temporary until I clean stuff out? Or these are two different hoses.

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If you pull the breather return hose off you'll be left with a hole in the turbo intake pipe. The one that goes from the air filter/MAF sensor to the turbo inlet. You'll need to plug it to maintain measured air intake.

Thanks weemac,
I ordered a reconditioned turbo among with oil pipes, filters, oil etc. I will replace the whole thing and clean the intercooler with some brush cleaner.
Will clean ALL hoses as well. In regards to the fuel cooler feeds pipes, will measure them and get some silicone ones, even if in different shape.

You're welcome. Follow this post and you'll be fine.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-change-turbo-on-a-td4.221780/#post-2510752

Having done the job recently, it isn't as daunting as it seems. Just make sure you've loads of ratchet extension bars on hand for the hard-to-reach exhaust nuts Turbo bolts that are accessible from the air filter housing need a 12 point socket. Nothing more specialist required but patience is your friend

Yep been reading that guide already, now I need some extensions, it's all that is missing. I have a few but will visit halford these days. Should 3/4 ones suffice? or I need some real torque there.

Half inch is best. It's a long way. Or match your biggest ratchet size if you want ter do it cheap.
Things are also a lot easier with the wheel off.

Question how on earth do I gain access to check the turbo for play, seems very hard... removed air filter housing and all but I cannot see how to access it there am I missing something?

Nope. It's all accessed from underneath. Only the bolts that connect the turbo to the exhaust manifold are accessible through the air box (3 x rubber bungs nearest the MAF sensor) .

If you want to check play, you have to reach up and pinch yer fingers into the turbo intake. I took the solenoid and mounting bracket off to make room.

A mirror on a stick will give you a good visual inspection. If you can't reach, perhaps you could gently manipulate the spinnymathing with a tool whilst looking in the mirror?

I believe 'the book' says one needs to remove the IRD to remove/replace the turbo.

You can see why a garage would want you to sell a kidney to carry out the work

Cannot do much even from underneath. The front subframe is in the way. Perhaps if I jack it up tomorrow in light conditions...

LE: there is light but is raining like in England. I will remove the wheel and arch on passenger side and try to address the issue from there.

meanwhile took off the intercooler and all hoses, gave it a good clean. However, now the car for some reasons smoke very very bad, all blueish towards white smoke and I did not even drive it, just rev on idle. Beside the cleanup of the air hoses and intercooler I only changed the vortex crankcase breather with a normal fluffy one.
I really hope this crap rain would stop for at least a few hours, today it didn't. And it's called summer here.

Keep your chin up and stay positive. The weather will pass
If you feel it's safe, I'd suggest a good drive is what it needs. In my experience of stripping and cleaning formerly oily parts, a bit of smoke is normal for the first few miles. It's also symptomatic of your description in the first post. You're loosening oil and carbon deposits that are now going through the cylinders, etc.

See how a fast, high revs run works out.

Meanwhile, I keep discovering things. There are these two pipes/hoses, for which I have two questions if anybody knows.

What are these pipes for? my suspicion is a/c
Is it normal for the left one to be in this shape, looks like it's been voided somehow.

websun said:

What are these pipes for? my suspicion is a/c

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Power steering pipes. The high pressure feed is on the right, the low pressure return is on the left.

websun said:

Is it normal for the left one to be in this shape, looks like it's been voided somehow

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Perfectly normal. The low pressure return pipe is made flat.

websun said:

Meanwhile, I keep discovering things.

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Stop looking for things. You could let your imagination run away with you. It's an old Freelander. Assembled in Solihull, England. It has plenty of idenified problems.

Alright, spent hours and got some muscle soreness getting the cat out because of a rusty old screw which I eventually had to cut. The catalyst indeed got blocked but not much I would say 30% of the surface, changing it anyway.
Did not finish removing the turbo but on 1st check it seems fine, no oil leak as I believed and no play on any of the axes. Will return the refurb one, as I am only going to change the gaskets, clean it up etc. Changing the solenoid as well for no reason. And some hoses.
TBH seems like a nice engine, considering is a diesel. No leaks anywhere, looks clean etc. The blue smoke may be from injectors, which I will test this weekend.

Alright, after my adventure I changed the whole exhaust, mid + cat + end. Seems legit and alright.
However, today I've replaced injector 4 and on top of the leaking I did notice alot of crud on the end. Which means that some of that stuff is still there, persisting.
Question is if there is any way of cleaning that part without removing the head? I can't think of any, perhaps some mannol intake and throttle body cleaner which I have around but I think that's a bit like snake oil in this case. I might pop out all injectors to clean and replace them seals. Some piston soak perhaps but the hole is too tiny to remove it after using some pump etc.