Freelander td4 air inlet manifold

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Pringy

Member
Posts
19
Location
West Midlands
Hi all
First ever post has I've only owned a freelander for a few month's I've just taken the air inlet manifold off and given it a good clean out and taken the the egr valve off and blanket it off I've put everything back on car minus one bolt off the bottom left hand side of the manifold everything has all titened down and car seems to be running fine just wondering if it will be ok long term
Thanks
P.S great site got some real good tips off herep
 
Thanks for your reply pal ive got a boat load of nuts and bolts but struggling to find one that fits do you know if they are a special type or not mate
 
Sorry to be a pain and really appreciate your help so far its been a great help but do you know what the torque settings are for the air inlet manifold
Thanks
 
As above nip up then a 1/4 turn and tighten them up by jump each one starting from the end, I just finished changing one over for a R40 member, then the heavens have opened up.

iGNza5nl.jpg
 
blodge said:
OOH - you nip tight!
With an M6 thread I wouldn't take it past 10Nm unless you have hardened bolts (10.9 or 12.9).
Click to expand...
Thanks for your advice pal I've stripped a few threads in my time got me in an hole lot of bother ive borrowed a torque wrench from work think I'll get myself one so I've always got one to hand
 
Lol
They're 7mm bolt/studs. I got the torque figures from the first set I removed a manifold, which hadn't been removed since it was built. I don't actually use a torque wrench for most fixings, except wheels and torque essential bolts and nuts. After many years, you can tell when the fixing is tight enough.
 
Pringy said:
Thanks for your advice pal I've stripped a few threads in my time got me in an hole lot of bother ive borrowed a torque wrench from work think I'll get myself one so I've always got one to hand
Click to expand...
I agree with Nodge and I rarely use a torque wrench for smaller fasteners (M8 and smaller) unless it is something critical like a cylinder head bolt. After you have snapped a few steel bolts inside an aluminium casting you develop a feel for what is about right - also known as paranoia.

If you are getting yourself a torque wrench it is a good idea to think about where you are going to be using it. For this sort of fastener I would be using one with a 1/4" drive and a maximum torque of about 50 Nm. The larger ones are too unwieldy and not very accurate at low torque settings when you are working on piddlin little screws. On the other hand if you are worried about the torque on your hub nut you need something a bit more macho. On the other, other hand, the little ones tend to be more expensive.

There are plenty of tables around on the internet showing the standard tightening torques for all sorts of threads - like this one http://www.norbar.com/Portals/0/downloads/TorqueValueGuide.pdf.
 
blodge said:
I agree with Nodge and I rarely use a torque wrench for smaller fasteners (M8 and smaller) unless it is something critical like a cylinder head bolt. After you have snapped a few steel bolts inside an aluminium casting you develop a feel for what is about right - also known as paranoia.

If you are getting yourself a torque wrench it is a good idea to think about where you are going to be using it. For this sort of fastener I would be using one with a 1/4" drive and a maximum torque of about 50 Nm. The larger ones are too unwieldy and not very accurate at low torque settings when you are working on piddlin little screws. On the other hand if you are worried about the torque on your hub nut you need something a bit more macho. On the other, other hand, the little ones tend to be more expensive.

There are plenty of tables around on the internet showing the standard tightening torques for all sorts of threads - like this one http://www.norbar.com/Portals/0/downloads/TorqueValueGuide.pdf.
Click to expand...
Nodge68 and Blodge thank you very much for your advice most appreciated
It's a cracking motor to be onist it had been in the same family since brand new the history with the car is amazing the only little problem with the car is the valve stem seals it puffs out a bit of blue smoke on first start up but soon clears i can live with that
 
Pringy said:
the only little problem with the car is the valve stem seals it puffs out a bit of blue smoke on first start up but soon clears i can live with that
Click to expand...

Has the breather filter been changed every couple of years, with the PCV valve being changed at the same time?
 
Yes it's been changed every service and just to make sure i changed it myself last week pal but not sure about pcv valve ive never heard of it where would that be please
 
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