Freelander Tailgate Regulator

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Optimus Prime

Well-Known Member
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5,988
Location
Garden of England
Having suffered a failure of the regulator at the worst time, in the cold and snow, I now have to replace it.

It seems there are two types of oem regulator, the main difference being the clamping arrangement for the glass.

Are the two types interchangeable, or do I have to make sure I get the right one ?

(I have also seen some cheap herbie versions on fleabay, but not going to use one of those as they look too far removed from what I have taken out)

I did attempt the repair using brake cables, but didn't have a lot of success, how many times do you have to wrap the cable around the spool drum before closing it up ? Every time I did it, it seemed to generate too much tension on the cable, pulling the nipple off the end.

Your help would be appreciated, as I can't leave the vehicle anywhere at the moment.
 
They are pretty taut OP, almost nail breakingly ;)

There should be no spare runners/tracks on the spindle. Once wound each cable is counter rotating.

There was a thread on this with piccies and all, it was a Netherlander Michiel van de ven.

Didn't know about the x2 OEM, any part numbers,
 
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Here's one of many threads.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/repair-tail-door-window-regulator-67657.html#post650227

There is a spring tensioner in the set up which needs setting and releasing after you've wound the cable onto the drum. For some temporary security and seeing as you are having to take the trim off anyway, you can raise the glass and put a jubilee clip around each track to hold the glass up to just below the lip on the roof.
Worked for me although you can't operate the wiper or the heater element.

Allan
 
cheers for that. I've got the glass wedged up with 2 bits of mini trunking cable tied into the guide rails, just an emergency get you home situation.

The fitting guide in your link is top dollar, think I might have another go, armed with that information. I guessed that there were two turns on the drum as that seemed about what the damaged cable would be, but seems I should have put another turn on it.

Thanks for your help. Watch this space.

NI, there seems to be some moody ones on ebay, which are made out of a bright metal, whereas the genuine ones seem to have black runners. Amongst the genuine ones on ebay, some seem to have quite a big bulky alloy glass clamp, with white plastic clamps within (as I have on mine). Some of the others have a smaller simpler black clamp. Not sure if there is a difference, which may explain why there is only one part number, (CVH101150).
 
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