Freelander tail door windown on armored cars

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bmoraes

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I have an armored Freelander (2004). Due to the thick armored glass the tail window window only moves about 1-1 1/2 inch (it has a telescopic cylinder to help the motor raise the window). Whenever I have to disconnect the battery the tail window looses it calibration.



The usual calibration procedures do not work, I guess because the window only travels a very short distance, and probably the control unit thinks there is an error. To get it calibrated it is necessary to remove the glass, put a "normal" glass, calibrate it and refit the armored glass. Quite a lot of trouble and work, and sometimes difficult to get it right.



Questions:

1) Is there a way to get the tail window calibrate if it only has 1 inch to move?

2) Is there a way not to loose the calibration when removing the battery?



I thought about something like a modified "control unit" or a "backup" battery for keeping the memory but I don't know where to start.



Any ideas are welcome. Thanks, Bruno
 
Hi,

I'm assuming export model and refer to appropriate wiring diagrams:

The CCU memory power is via fuse 14 -5A & fuse 15 -20A in under dash fusebox. A 12v rechargeable battery pack could be switched in here during main battery removal. If welding were being carried out on the vehicle then this standby power option probably could not be used.

Another option is to operate the tail door window independently of the control unit. The two window motor relays can be found above the right rear wheel arch behind interior trim. Two wires (red/blue & red/green) carry 12v up/down signals from the CCU. These signals could be switched independently.
 
Thank you Dann,

good answer! I'll see if I can both control it "manually" but also use the delay to bring it down when I open the tail door.

Is there a way to "fool" the CCU so that my tail door wiper will work? I guess the same approach could work if I wire the wiper directly to the button on the fascia, right? There is no risk of operating it with the tail window down, since it never gets down!!

Thanks, Bruno
 
bmoraes said:
Thank you Dann,

good answer! I'll see if I can both control it "manually" but also use the delay to bring it down when I open the tail door.

Is there a way to "fool" the CCU so that my tail door wiper will work? I guess the same approach could work if I wire the wiper directly to the button on the fascia, right? There is no risk of operating it with the tail window down, since it never gets down!!

Thanks, Bruno
Click to expand...

Hi Bruno,

My approach would be to disconnect the CCU outputs to tail door window motor relays and tail door wiper relays this would allow the CCU to think it had disabled those functions. A simple micro switch operated by the tail door handle could be wired to the window relays to 'drop' the glass as the door is opened. The existing console rocker switch could be used to raise/lower the glass manually. The tail door wiper could be made to operate from a dash mounted switch.

If you go to 'Greenoval' website you can download the wiring diagrams etc which you will need. D..
 
OMG an amoured freelander, built by the A-team

We wanna see some pics,

If it has a telescopic mech then you will have to bypass the Control unit.

There was pllenty of room for thickened glass within the door keeping the old pulley system, who did the refit and why change the mech!??
 
Bit fooking pointless having bulletproof glass if the fookers wound down int it? sort of renders the bulletproofing ineffective doesn't it??

Can't be much of a drug dealer if ya can't afford a bulletproof rangie though?? :D :D
 
Hi,

sure there is plenty of space for the thickened (21mm) glass + the bulletproof kevlar in the door.

The issue is the glass is way to heavy for the mechanism, so it uses a telescopic hydraulic cylinder bellow the glass to help the motor. So there is no space for the glass to move all the way down.

The mechanism is original, no changes.

thanks for all replies.
 
let mi get this right yer got an armoured gaylander just in case irrate slitty drivers/parents whos kids yeve dealt drugs to shoot at you

now ive just looked at armoured land rovers fer our company directors if we start to work in some of the less lawful parts o the world due to lack of major construction projects in britain


and we reckoned lightly armoured disco 2 ex mod 27000
new disco 3 full spec 165000
new range rover 225000
defender POA
rengie had 5 liter petrol na in it and 19 inch rimes wi 17,82 break discs
sp reckon armoured freelander 175

point being if yer flash enough ter own an armoured landy as yer mechanic or yer chauffer to look at it
 
Well, armored cars are not that uncommon down here in Brazil!

Yes, it is fairly expensive to get a new one armored (Freelander US$ 30-40,000), the good think is that you can buy one 4-5 years old without paying any premium for the armored (i.e. an armored or a "normal" 2004 Freelander just cost the same).

It gives you some annoyances (like this on the tail glass, door windows that don't go all the way down, a little more l/km since you are carrying about 200kg of armor and a few others) but it can be very good peace of mind in other occasions.

It is my first armored car, decide to experiment it and bought from a friend (director of a company like yours!).
 
bmoraes said:
Well, armored cars are not that uncommon down here in Brazil!

Yes, it is fairly expensive to get a new one armored (Freelander US$ 30-40,000), the good think is that you can buy one 4-5 years old without paying any premium for the armored (i.e. an armored or a "normal" 2004 Freelander just cost the same).

It gives you some annoyances (like this on the tail glass, door windows that don't go all the way down, a little more l/km since you are carrying about 200kg of armor and a few others) but it can be very good peace of mind in other occasions.

It is my first armored car, decide to experiment it and bought from a friend (director of a company like yours!).
Click to expand...

fair nuff seems a bit light fer to be much use though
200kg aint armour its heavy cheuqer plate decent armoured rangie carries an extran tonne and god nows what a vixen carrys even a snatch has got more and you kin kill them with a tomato and a pea shooter
 
It became quite light with the use of kevlar fabric (one can still use stainless steel, it will be quite cheaper but much heavier). Actually the heavy parts are the windows with 21mm glass.

This is what they call type III-A armor, good enough for 45mm bullets and it is he heavier they allow for normal civilian use in Brazil. The next level of protection would require a 39mm glass, and in this case it is a waaaaay more expensive project and hard to get a nice looking and functional car.
 
bmoraes said:
It became quite light with the use of kevlar fabric (one can still use stainless steel, it will be quite cheaper but much heavier). Actually the heavy parts are the windows with 21mm glass.

This is what they call type III-A armor, good enough for 45mm bullets and it is he heavier they allow for normal civilian use in Brazil. The next level of protection would require a 39mm glass, and in this case it is a waaaaay more expensive project and hard to get a nice looking and functional car.
Click to expand...
so why the **** you got one then...
 
Consider the simpler option of a fixed glass an modify the trim above the door aperture. :)
 
Chaser,

I do like the idea of a fixed glass. The issue is to make sure there is no space between the glass and the rubber strip, so no water gets in when it is raining.

By adjusting the trim do you mean trying to have a wider rubber strip?
 
Well I'm assuming the plastic trim has already been altered in some way as there isn't room for 21mm glass in original form so I don't know exactly what your starting with. Perhaps the inner cushioning has been removed or it has been spaced out slightly.
I would think that with such sturdy glass you can exert enough pressure on the aperture seal to prevent leaks and the seal is shaped to channel water away to the sides. If you could cut the trim to allow the glass to pass and if necessary maybe you could add a strip of plastic to create a small overhang.
That's my initial thought anyway. :scratching_chin:If you have any doubts you could try it on a spare trim from a breakers...
 
Thank you Chaser,

I liked your ideas, I'll see what I can do there! Actually the plastic trim has not been altered. the top of o glass keeps its original thickness to fit the trim. The thicker glass starts a few centimeters below that.

Thanks a lot, Bruno
 
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