Freelander Stuck HELP

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Jamie22Landy

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Scarborough
Hello, new to this forum, i'v come for sum addvice, it could be simple but i think iv got a problem.
When I jack 1 rear wheel up, take the wheel off, then take the drum off, should the hub be able to spin freely, with the hand break off and out of gear.
 
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I recently changed both front anti roll bars, both front drive shafts, when I took the car off the ramps, I realised my rear hand break wad locked on, which I thought after tighting more tan normal been on ramp, I took the wheel of and the hub of, then realised the stuck hand break, put the wheel back on, the next job I changed the exhaust finally all the work done, I drove it round for the day, (all fine) the next day I went to drive the car again, now this time I move about a meter before I realised I was stuck again, but this time when I have gone to realise the stuck break, I think I have a different problem,
As previous post, wheel off, hub off, out of gear, I think hand break off, but the hub wont spin. Any advice
 
I see the answer No, is that because it's 4 wheel drive and I should neef both wheels off the floor for it to spin freely.
Basicly how do I check whats stopping me driving, I dont think it's the hand break this time.
 
Jack both rear wheels up and see if turning one, turns the other in the opposite direction.

Search on here fir VCU test and carry it out. The VCU is like a big donut thing half way down the props shafts.
DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE LIKE THIS! You could be looking at a £2K bill
 
It will feel like the transmission is seized solid, which is effectively what has happened, if you are lucky, if not so lucky it might have destroyed the IRD (search what it is) and the rear diff.
 
cheers, can it be freed off. yer it cant drive.
so sudgestion, jack both wheels up, see if both wheels are free, if its free then its the VCU not hand break issue
 
well i jacked the rear end up, and the wheel that i had hand break issues with turned freely. so i though lets go for it, so i dissconected my read prop from the diff. i was then thinkng i can then push it off the road where it has been looking like it abandoned two mins away from my home, well that was th plan, i now wish now i had payed more attention to the other wheel that i hadnt had issues with. because the break was actually jamed on that whel, so now i have a dicconect working drive, of which when i had pushed i have managed to un aline the propshaft, and then a stuck hand break. of which at closer look, the pad has pulled off the wheel, and jamed in the wheel. 4 hours later i manage to wedge it off, now i need new pads n clips. n to re aline the prop
 
Jamie, assuming you're talking a Mk1 Freelander, thus the same as mine - best source of info. is Haynes Manual. Your local library may have one, but it's well worth buying. It's a very odd transmission system, possibly unique. MkII is a different setup. On Mk1, each axle has a "free" differential, thus jack up one end of the car and the wheels will spin freely in opposite directions. The front axle is then driven by the gearbox, like any FWD car. There is then a "sticky" drive from front axle to back axle, via the VCU (Viscous Coupling) (the lump in the middle of the prop shaft). If you jack up any wheel (out of gear) and try to turn it, it will rotate VERY slowly, under a bit of pressure. This is what the VCU does and it lets you go round corners without wrecking the transmission. There's always a bit of free play, so if any wheel won't turn at all, think seized brake (quite likely) or bearing. I've let LR do any work on this system as you need special tools and a big torque wrench. Haynes manual has two versions that I know of, one for the "brown bumper" version and one for the facelifted "painted bumper") version. The engine, gearbox and electrics differ.
 
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