Hi everyone can anyone help I have an 05 freelander td4 all was fine when I drove the car in the morning then on the way back the car lost power and idles really rough and now having trouble starting it the Emil is on but there are no stored codes so a bit puzzled to what is wrong any help would be greatly appreciated
Freelander running rough
- Thread starter Jud1
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
If no codes are stored, then you'll need to look at the live data, to give an idea as to what is wrong. Look at the low pressure fuel supply for pressure, and report back.
Thankyou nodge68 for your reply I only have a cheap code reader and have no live data I think I may have to call the aa so they can put there machine on it I looked on here and tried a few things that I found ie the fuel pressure sensor and also the harness tried unplugging that but no change it’s so bazar rad was running really well before all this
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
Are you sure there's no live data available on the reader you have? Generally even cheap ones do that. Alternatively if you use an Android phone, then get a Bluetooth ELM327 BT OBD2 dongle (under £10) and download the Torque App, which will allow you to read all sorts of data straight from the EDC.
Basic checks are.
Can you hear the low pressure pump in front of RH rear wheel running?
If it's running quietly, then when was the filter last changed?
Has the sedimenter been drained in the last 12 months?
Basic checks are.
Can you hear the low pressure pump in front of RH rear wheel running?
If it's running quietly, then when was the filter last changed?
Has the sedimenter been drained in the last 12 months?
Thankyou nodge68 to here the pump running does the car need to be running or will you here it just by switching the ignition on as the car won’t start also what is the procedure of draining the sedementer I’m no mechanic I’m trying to help out my brother in law
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
If the low pressure pump is working correctly, you should hear it start running the moment the ignition is turned on. It'll run for approximately 30 - 60 seconds, before stopping. Cycling the ignition should allow it to run for another 30 - 60 seconds.
If you can't hear the pump running, then the engine won't start, as the EDC/ ECM won't trigger the injectors, unless the low pressure is measured above 250 kPa.
it does depend on your reader - before i picked up the foxwell for land rover i had 2 general engine only ones - an RAC one which read nothing and the elm327 with torque app which did the trick.
I ended up with foxwell NT530 which i can add more vehicles to, a lot on here seem to go icarsoft. You can get a Chinese copy of SDD but thats another story.
I ended up with foxwell NT530 which i can add more vehicles to, a lot on here seem to go icarsoft. You can get a Chinese copy of SDD but thats another story.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
Unfortunately a failing or failed low pressure pump shows no codes, as the EDC can't monitor it. The pump is powered via a relay, which itself is activated by the EDC.
You can check the relay is working for good measure, but they don't fail. Check the fuel pump fuse while you're in the fuse box.
The sedimenter is easy to drain, as there's a small tap visible through the plastic pump guard, just forwards of the RH rear wheel. You simply turn the tap a couple of turns anticlockwise to allow any water and sediment to drain, then turn it clockwise again to stop the flow, once fresh fuel starts to come out.
But if you can't hear the pump, then it's likely that is the issue.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
I can't remember which fuse is for the fuel pump off hand, but it could be No1 or No10 I think.
The fuel relay is marked with a red dot in this diagram.
The fuel relay is marked with a red dot in this diagram.
Thank you nodge68 for all your info you are very knowledgeable I have seen another post relating to the o rings on the hp fuel regulator splitting could this be another possibility also how do I do a leak back test on the injectors to see if he might a a leaky injector or two
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
HP regulator O rings can fail, which prevents the pressure building sufficiently high to allow the injectors to spray correctly. However if the low pressure pump isn't running, then there won't be any fuel to inject in the first place.
So you have to check the whole fuel system, starting at the tank, and working forward from there.
- Posts
- 1,807
- Location
- Hertfordshire
F10 for the fuel pump 30A. Fuse1 also 30A is for the ECM (on diesel models).
Thankyou for your reply Andy it’s much appreciated
Hi Andy which fuel pump would f10 be for low or high pressure one or does it supply both thanks for your reply
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
The low pressure pump is electric, powered by F10, via R1.
The HP pump is driven off the timing chain, and so pumps whenever the engine is turning.
The HP pump is pretty reliable, although it can leak fuel on occasion.
If you can't hear the LP pump running, then you need to investigate that issue first.
- Posts
- 1,807
- Location
- Hertfordshire
Hi, as Nodge says if you can't hear the pump priming when you switch the ignition on then it needs investigating as to why. The pump is arrowed red in the pics, if you have 12v at the pump connector but can't hear it priming with the ign. on then the pump has probably failed (that's what happened
to mine). I personally would replace it with the Pierburg pump as that's what is fitted by LR. If it's embossed with the BMW logo it's the original, mine was. Yellow arrow is the fuel filter which has an earth tab shoved down the side of it, these corrode & break or the spade connector rots away, you'll see a black earth wire dangling (the yellow arrow pointing to the bit covered in copper ease). The green arrow is the dosing pump for the fuel burning heater (FBH) if fitted, which has nothing to do with the engine running. Just be careful with all the pipe fittings as they break easily. Good luck.
Hi everyone thanks for all the help I have just turned ignition on and lp pump seems to be running as it should and cuts out after a short while which I think it is supposed to do tried starting it again and the car seems like it was going to fire up but dosnt when it did eventually fire up about three days ago it was as if it was running on 3 cylinders this has just come out of the blue as the morning before it went wrong it was running with no issues which leads me to believe that this could possibly something silly I’ve not got a clue what could be causing this issue
