freelander rear thud

hi
i've bought a 1999 2.0 td freelander and it's began to make a loud knock / thud as i pull off, from the drivers side rear wheel and if diving in too high a gear a loud virbration noise from the same area.
i've changed the rear strut but it's still there?
any ideas?

regards phil

rear diff mount or rear subframe mount?

thanks how do i tell?

have a search and read?

If the Diff. mounts are gone you can tell by shaking the prop shaft up and down whilst looking at them.

Sound to me like what I had on my old DI freeby

the bolt that secures the crossmember to the two chasie bars is fastend with an encased nut

this nut can rust and become loose in the casing and then the two bars rattle around.

noticeable in high gear and low revs

It took me an age to find it

lets see If i can remember how I fixed it.. you need a welder and dont be scared to cut a hole in the boot floor.


take off the rear wheel, you will see a stableiser bar that goes from the hub to the cross member near to the diff mounts. remove this bar and you will see where the crossmember bolts up at the end ... check to se if this is tight .. and I mean realy tight.. if not undo the bolt and poke a long pointy drill bit up and through the rubber gromet inthe boot floor.. there are loads of them I cant remeber which one it is.

under that gromet is the nut inside the subframe.. tack weld it back and rebuild

that should fix the problem

ed

Hi Phil
Listen to what the DJ says,but first put a large screwdriver between the subframe and chasis and look for any movement,then you know if the bolt,weld has failed

Hi Phil.

Mine did the same thing but it was the exhause rubbers that was worn thus the exhause made that loud knock/thud noise when i pulled of when it knock's against a small drop plate like pice of metal (I suppose it's there to protect the exhause from behind) and made the vibrating noise with high revs when driving.

All I did was replace the rubbers, a good way to check if it is that is to shake the exhause backward and forwards at the back and just listen for the knock/thud.

Good luck

cheers i'm a welder/fabricator so i've no problem with the repair, just have get under at the weekend and check which one it is and i've already checked the exaust it's not that i'd say it's the captive nut that's the problem as the thump is somthing moving as i pull off.

thanks everyone will let you know how i get on!

If think I am having the same problem. Did you fix it?

yes the weld fixed the problem on mine. it just seccures the nut so that you can get it really tight and so no movenment, also it stops any sidewase movement

ed

I found the nut in which the bolt goes to be lose, I opened up the floor and found the encasing to look OK. The nut inside the encasing is loose, but just a bit. Is that normal? Or should the nut AND the casing be 100% fixed and non-movable?

50cc said:

I found the nut in which the bolt goes to be lose, I opened up the floor and found the encasing to look OK. The nut inside the encasing is loose, but just a bit. Is that normal? Or should the nut AND the casing be 100% fixed and non-movable?

Click to expand...

That's the beginning of it, then that encasing bit goes.

This weekend I welded that whole lot firmly to the chassis on mine, no more clunks or creaking

That's the beginning of it, then that encasing bit goes.

This weekend I welded that whole lot firmly to the chassis on mine, no more clunks or creaking

Click to expand...

So I need to remove the encasing, weld the nut, and then weld the casing?

theres a complete write-up in the Q's and A's bit - if anyone bothers to look.

Hi
I had exactly the same as this and it was the front diff bush that had gone jack a rear wheel up and move it and you will see the diff move if this is the case

hope you get it sorted

Gordon