Freelander rear Subframe issue

I have had my landy for about a year and there has always been a noise coming from the rear when turning although it has got progressivly worse, until I put it in the garage last week.
After having 3 bushes replaced on the rear diff, the garage told me the problem was where one of the four subframe securing bolts was not pulling the subframe tight up to the chassis.
On getting under the car myself, if you look at the drivers side front fixing of the rear subframe, there appears to be a gap of about 5mm, between the subframe and chassis, I am told that the bolt has been done up very tight, but it will not pull the frame up in that corner?
Anyone had any experience of this?
It is possible that it has always been like this and age has made the squeal worse, and it is possible that the incorrect bolt length has been fitted - I will check this at the weekend
But I fear that the Subframe could be twisted, and from there I am not sure where to go next?
Any ideas?
Dave

I thought all freelanders was a monochoche ("ooops" cant spell it) chassis? I always thought these type of chassis dont have subframes as the chassis is the frame of the car? Im gonna go and read the haynes bible and satisfy my curiosity.

Hi All
Got my friend to look at it who is a wizz at these things, On the front mountings of the rear subframe, there is a tube that is welded to the chassis, the weld had broken and although the bolt was tight, it would not pull the unit up tight.
A small hole had to be cut under the passenger seat (there is a small knockout there) which allowed the tube to be welded and an extra plate fitted. this allowed the whole assy to be pulled up tight and now sounds like a different car!
Mind you he now suspects that the viscous coupling may be faulty

I have the same problem with my Freelander. I would be most gratful for any suggestions where I can have this work done in London. Preferebly somewhere near Greenwich.

Thank you in advance

langy said:

Hi All
Got my friend to look at it who is a wizz at these things, On the front mountings of the rear subframe, there is a tube that is welded to the chassis, the weld had broken and although the bolt was tight, it would not pull the unit up tight.
A small hole had to be cut under the passenger seat (there is a small knockout there) which allowed the tube to be welded and an extra plate fitted. this allowed the whole assy to be pulled up tight and now sounds like a different car!

Mind you he now suspects that the viscous coupling may be faulty

Click to expand...

I have just had the problem sorted out on my Freelander, It took some time to find the problem but from start to finish it took just ONE HOUR.

The securing nut inside the car was completely free the welding had come apart.
The Nut was removed from the sub frame Bolt and a piece of metal welded in-place with a new nut welded in place.

Replaced sub frame bolt and took the car out for test drive, no more funny noises from the rear and no more cracking when reversing down ramps when turning.

JOB DONE LESS THAN ONE HOUR AND ONLY £25 bill. !!!

Labiarat said:

I thought all freelanders was a monochoche ("ooops" cant spell it) chassis? I always thought these type of chassis dont have subframes as the chassis is the frame of the car? Im gonna go and read the haynes bible and satisfy my curiosity.

Click to expand...

They have a front and rear subframe. Coupled with independent suspension, gives it that car handling capabilities

Pat1 said:

I have just had the problem sorted out on my Freelander, It took some time to find the problem but from start to finish it took just ONE HOUR.

The securing nut inside the car was completely free the welding had come apart.
The Nut was removed from the sub frame Bolt and a piece of metal welded in-place with a new nut welded in place.

Replaced sub frame bolt and took the car out for test drive, no more funny noises from the rear and no more cracking when reversing down ramps when turning.

JOB DONE LESS THAN ONE HOUR AND ONLY £25 bill. !!!

Click to expand...

Pat1 - can you confirm if your hippo is 3dr or 5dr.

It was known back in the earlier years that the 5dr flexes off road. One of the Rover technicians went public on this.

It could be just a bad batch of dodgey welding that slipped through quality control. Freelanders were riddled with teething problems. They couldnt keep up the supply on demand, so QC suffered.

It may be possible to fabricate some torsional strengthening struts. Sports cars such as the MGF and Mazda have struts that mount underneath the car to give better rigidity. These are an aftermarket item. Although in the Mazda, there are drilled holes for that very purpose (Forward planning by mazda engineers)

Northern Irelander said:

They have a front and rear subframe. Coupled with independent suspension, gives it that car handling capabilities



Pat1 - can you confirm if your hippo is 3dr or 5dr.

It was known back in the earlier years that the 5dr flexes off road. One of the Rover technicians went public on this.

It could be just a bad batch of dodgey welding that slipped through quality control. Freelanders were riddled with teething problems. They couldnt keep up the supply on demand, so QC suffered.

It may be possible to fabricate some torsional strengthening struts. Sports cars such as the MGF and Mazda have struts that mount underneath the car to give better rigidity. These are an aftermarket item. Although in the Mazda, there are drilled holes for that very purpose (Forward planning by mazda engineers)

Click to expand...

Hi,

Mine is the 5 Door!

Had it from new and never had a problem of this sort before.

Pat1 said:

I have just had the problem sorted out on my Freelander, It took some time to find the problem but from start to finish it took just ONE HOUR.

The securing nut inside the car was completely free the welding had come apart.
The Nut was removed from the sub frame Bolt and a piece of metal welded in-place with a new nut welded in place.

Replaced sub frame bolt and took the car out for test drive, no more funny noises from the rear and no more cracking when reversing down ramps when turning.

JOB DONE LESS THAN ONE HOUR AND ONLY £25 bill. !!!

Click to expand...

can i ask where you had the job done for only £25 or did you do it yourself

chiefamos said:

can i ask where you had the job done for only £25 or did you do it yourself

Click to expand...

that was over TWO YEARS ago !

I had the job done at my local independent garage down in Devon!

The guy I use is a diamond ! The last job he did for me was to remove my defective Diff and replace it wit a recon unit that job cost me FIFTY POUNDS LABOR ONLY and in and out within 12o minutes

It's a common problem that has been covered many times under "Chassis cracked"

The nut is not meant to be welded down, but the carrier around it is

Mark2 said:

It's a common problem that has been covered many times under "Chassis cracked"

The nut is not meant to be welded down, but the carrier around it is

Click to expand...

A plate was welded to the rear of the body work to that plate was welded two nuts. the bolt was screwed to the nuts securing the parts together. the bolt can still be removed if I required it to be parted...

Well all I can say is this ....... I have no more problems when reversing my motor up a small right hand incline.

No more banging, no more worrying about what is about to happen to the motor or whats about to fall off.

The welding done on the motor cost very little and worked first time this I have never been able to say after its been in to a Major Land Rover Dealership. In fact I will never use Rodger Young again!!

Happy Days...