Freelander leaking oil?!

Hey Guys, Sorry but this is a long one...

Just got an 03 TD4 but not being a car man and apart from the obvious checks regarding VCU etc. I purchased it...to later establish the following;

1. If the key is placed in position2 for about 5 seconds and then starting the car, the Hill descent and TC symbol stay on the dash however if starting the car full turn of the key then the lights go out with the rest strait away?

2. A thud is heard as if something is under the car if you start stop quickly, the local garage who were was only able to give a quick inspection as I just poped in believes it to be the rear diff mount, is that common on these?

3. The car speedo reads faster than it actually feels and is confirmed via satnav which states actual speed as 6 mph less approx, tyres are near new with all the same size, being 215/65/16.

4. There is what looks like black oil leak under the car, haging off the edge of the engine bay cover drivers side (the end facing the rear of the car) however I was told during the initial inspection it was the cause of the front prop shaft boot being split and thus causing the grease leak, but when taking of a few bolts of the bay cover they now believe to see leaks from the side of the engine, which can not be seen from the top. They think it may be the sump gasket??

5. In a proper digging of the cars paperwork I established the engine recently had a piston ring replaced and at the same time the heads done and pressure tested! However I managed to speak to the garage that seem to remember that when it came in, the engine was pushing oil out of the filler cap and dipstick, they claim to have initially checked the breather filter which looked as though it was recently replaced thus did not change again and hence started to strip the engine down to discover I think either piston ring 1 or 4 being stuck or something.

Anyway once they changed that including new sump gasket and pressure tested it all seemed fine and no more oil being pusshed up...however he did say that he was not happy with discovering oil was passing through the turbo and did mention that it would damage the engine unless resolved...surprisingly the previous owner did not want to add to the bill and investigate/resolve further?!!

I have managed to book it in at the loacl for a full inspection next week as they will steam clean and try to pin point the leaks. I'm but obviously feeling a bit of a tit for not inspecting it more.

Lastly, is it okay to drive the car with those symptoms (oil passing through turbo etc.) until I get it in to the garage, what sort of bill would I be looking at to rectify the above?

Are there any specific issues I can test/be aware of? the engine leak is worrying me big time but not as much as finding out that the turbo may be faulty and passing oil back in to the engine?!! Help...

2. normally the front bush on the rear diff.
4. possibly driveshaft seal ?
5. normally caused by the crank case breather becoming blocked.

Thanks for the quick response buddy, do you think it is wise to drive the car in this condition as I dont want the engine to suffer if the turbo is pushing in oil and equally with the the obvious leake from prop shaft gaiter?? I take it you assume the sump gasket is okay becuase from the basic inspection they could without taking the engine bay cover they could see signs of oil sprayed on the lower left hand side of the engine
I guess they wont obviously know for sure until they get it in and take the cover off and steam clean, but you obviously cant help wondering...

What makes them think it's passing oil through the turbo?
Is it bellowing out white smoke all the time?
If they came to this conclusion by looking at the intercooler pipes, then these are always coated with oil unless an egr bypass kit is fitted.
If your prop shaft gaitor is split there is now a kit available for repairing this ( approx £20-£30 ).

The garage that changed the pistion rings said that they noticed oil in the intercooler that they thought was going back in to the engine or may being used by the engine or a discription if that sort (sorry but not a car man at all). However I have not noticed any odd smoke therefore I need to also ask, when would such coloured smoke be emitted, at start up, whilst driving or stationary after a run??

The Missus needs to use it for an appointment this morning (5 mile round trip) although it seems to run fine I'm just worried about doing any damage to the engine, going by the fear from the garage that worked on it. They even stated on the receipt, oil passing through the turbo, drive a 100 miles and come back to check? I don't think they are Landi spacialist just a normal garage that also done the last two MOTs on it. Whilst talking to him over the phone he basically said that he has seen many turbo's fail because of oil getting through the system and even the engine go if got to a point where it sucked in a load of oil instead of air?? All this obviously made no sense but jsut dont want her driving it if there is a risk of such oil getting drawn in to the engine etc...

I would think a 5 mile round trip would be fine if you haven't got smoke bellowing out.
I'm sure some of the more senior members on here would be able to advise you better at some point over the weekend.
I would though change the crancase breather to be on the safe side....or upgrade it to the new BMW version (just do a search BMW crankcase breather), and i would also make sure to change the turbo vent filter (basically an old in line fuel filter) located behind the back left of the air filter housing, this clips to the back and is left dangling and has a pipe attatched on only one end and the other end is left open.

Hi have you had to put oil in the engine ?

1. Problems with the brake light switch have caused problems with these lights, do a search.
2. Definitely the rear diff front mount. "Green Lanes" supply replacement for £9:95. Replaced one last week.
3. Tyres quoted are standard size so there are no gearing problems. All data transmission is digital so cannot be introducung errors. High friction in the clock could be a problem but dont trust satnav data, my GPS gives 10%+ errors on distances.
4. There is insufficient grease in prop and CV joints for it to drip off the undertray. This is engine oil being blown out by over pressurisation of the crankcase, caused by a blocked crankcase breather. The fact that there have been piston ring problems would support this. Damaged rings allow blow-by of hot gasses from the cylinder into the crankcase. Higher gase flow carries more oil into the poor breather which becomes blocked pressurising the crankcase. The turbo the sucks in these oil laden gasses and can then become blocked due to carbonisation, especially the variable inlet vanes. Change the "breather filter" for the newer BMW cyclone type (£18+ from BMW dealers, not L/R). Away from home at the mo and cant remember the part no. but it has been posted here many times, do a search.
Driving it a few miles with a light right foot should not causefurther damage.

Many thanks for the excellent response lads, much appreciated!! A couple of questions, if no oil is coming out of dipstick and filler cap am I to still assume that that crankcase filter needs changing and is the cause of leak from possible sump gasket? I ask because the first thing my local landis specialist done was lift the dipstick and filler cap whilst engine running but nothing came out so he assumed that was okay and probably supports what the garage that changed the pistons thought when they 'apparently' checked the filter and said that it had looked as though it was already changed and hence proceeded with the engine strip down??

If, and I hope it is just the filter, will changing that immediately stop the leaking from the engine sump, assuming it is the sump gasket, although the garage that did the work said a new gasket was fitted properly? If it is easy to change then I will just go and get the filter from my local stealer and replace it if it is just a matter of taking out and putting in? Hopefully that should be a cheap and quick test until the it goes in for a steam clean and test next week. Cheers again lads, really is reassuring to hear from those that know

As he says above, go for the bmw upgraded cyclonic filter.
BMW part numberB11.12.7.799.367 Approx £22 ( the normal one will set you back £12 each service)
I'ts a fit and forget upgrade and only needs a clean out every blue moon.
If the one in it looks ok, someone changed it after the fact to see if it cured the problem so it's best to start from fresh, i'd still do the turbo vent filter aswell.

How does the BMW part fit, does it come with a new housing or is it just a special filter that is placed in the existing housing? If so can both that and the turbo filter be replaced by myself or a complete novice or shall just wait till it's in at the garage and just give them the parts to replace? Lastly how can I find the replacement prop boot that needs changing as it seems to a discontinued part and I'd rather not add the expense or a used prop to all this...

Bizarre

I've just posted a similar thread on this issue.


Mine is a td4 with oil dripping from the sump bell housing area , right side as you look from the front.

It also has oil in the ic pipes, but I put that down to the 88000 miles of blowby it has.



I wonder if my leak is caused by the same blocked filter.

Lets hope it is just the filter on them...

Hi theres plenty of info on here with piccys of how to do it TD4 CRANKCASE BREATHER

Heres the link Freelander prop shaft gaitor, good news.
Bmw filter is simple swap.

Cheers buddy, any special tools required to take off engine covers and the unit itself? Thanks again pal!

If someone can paste a real good link that has pics explsinig the filter, will be much appreciated! Cheers

If remember correctly you need either torques or security torques bits for the injector harness and the housing cover, I can't remeber the size though but they aren't that big.

Click......Crankcase Breather Mod TD4

Cheers buddy, assuming it is leaking from the sump gasket, does that mean a new gasket needs to be fitted (if so whats the approx cost) or will changing the filter stop it leaking from the sump gasket all togeather and resolve the leak??