Freelander Faults poll

I've just parted with my September 1997 XEDi, had for 7 years and couldn't fault it, it must have been one of the first hippos' to role off the line.
It only needed what you would expect for a car of that age, ball joint, sunroof mechanism, battery and wiper motor.
It still looked the bollocks when I traded it for an 04, not a spec of rust.

2manytoys said:

Don't usually raise my head above parapet, so I'm prepared to get it bitten off, but is the poll not meaningless without model ownership info (if only 25% have a TD4, then they have all had engine problems!).

Our TD4 ES 2003 (Jan) MOT yesterday ... no problems ... again. But as she is getting on a bit now was thinking of a change so wondered how much running cost had been (seemed to be lots of paperwork). So I checked...
Owned since Dec 2004, and doing 10k year. Replaced injectors (75% paid by LR), viscous coupling, clutch master, air intake pipes, brake pads all round, annual services (first 2 by main dealer), MOTs, and all labour = £2000. In 5 years that's not bad going!

She's a keeper!

2manytoys

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This is a public poll, anyone who voted has their username, if you want to follow up, be my guest!

I did ask in the first post to explain their votes, obviously not the case.

Spammers aside (10-15%), the actual figures may change but the proportions will not. It's as good a survey as you'll get.

new injectors and viscous coupling shouldn't need to be changed on a 6 year old vehicle.

I voted for TD4 engine problems. I had HGF and now oil on the injectors, most likely due to poor maintenance from previous owner and/or sheer incompentence from the garage I bought it from.

I figure that if the coolant bottle says MAX it's there for some reason! Same goes for the oil level.

Anyway, I was too eager to get the car in my hands

1999 Freelander XDI mileage 75k
All the problems listed below happened in one year

Both front window mechanisms knackered (x2 new mechanisms fitted)
Heater fan did not work on 1 setting (new resistor pack fitted)
Air con not working (new hose fitted & recharged)
Diff Bushes worn (replaced with new)
Diff disintegrated (new diff fitted)
Tyres wore out very quickly due to knackered Diff (x4 new tyres purchased)
Rear boot well soaking (water was getting in from grill above rear wheel arch now blocked off)
Windows steam up often (no fix)
Screeching noise when pulling away (new belt fitted but did not fix)
Knocking noise underneath (subframe welded now fixed)
Whirling noise underneath (under investigation)


Please all the problems listed above are nothing to do with the 2.0ltr XDI
L series Diesel engine which runs fine even on Bio Fuel.

1998 XEDi 177,000 on it so far (had it from new)

Previous Faults

Subframe cracked
Timing belt tensioner dropped off, bent some valves.
Radio display ribbon cable failed.

Current Faults

Heater matrix leaking.
Radiator leaking.
Head gasket failed.
Smashed drivers side mirror.
Drivers window regulator snapped.
Passenger window regulator snapped.
Tailgate window regulator snapped.
Tailgate handle falling off.
Sunroof fubar'ed.
Viscous coupling is in a skip somewhere.
Anti roll bar bushes are worn.
Radio display ribbon cable failed.

No doubt I'll remember a few more.

2002 TD4 owned nearly 5 years, doing an average of 15k a year.

Diff had to be replaced
Tank mounted diesel pump had to be replaced (under warranty)
3x window regulators had to be replaced
Water ingress in boot
Speedometer noisy

Other than the window regulators and the diff (since mine is not used for towing I would expect a diff to last pretty much the lifetime of the vehicle) I have found it to be reasonably reliable - though, since I am into classic cars, maybe my idea of reliable is not as strict as some peoples! I had a Peugeot 407 HDI company car last year, and the Freelander is certainly more reliable than that! I find the handling fairly poor, even allowing for the fact that it's a small 4x4. I can't for the life of me understand why they couldn't make the drivers seat height adjustable. Depreciation is eye watering. During recent snow the Freelander came into it's own - it could climb the steep hills around where I live when other, larger 4x4's couldn't.

1999 XEdi
Mileage: 200k

Spend so far:
- Timingbelt (no problems, just timely replaced)
- Front right brake got stuck on holiday. Destroyed caliper and disk -> replaced.
- Front right brake stuck again. Only 10 months later. LaRo garage replaced disk, brake lines, master cilinder. Problem seems fixed.
- Left door window mechanism broke
- Front right brake again! Another 8 months spent destroying brake pads. Suspect LaRo garage to be staffed with morons. (Jacop Schaap, Lelystad) Later confirmed by other LaRo owners. Never go there again. Took it apart myself. Sliding bolts were not properly greased causing the caliper to stick. Greased them myself. Problem gone...
- Front head light unit destroyed. My own dumb fault. Replaced both units because I liked the one with clear indicators better.

It's done about 80k now whiles I owned it. Never had the VCU replaced and after reading about here, it's going to get a new one this summer. Just to be sure, I don't want to wait until this one is knackered...

1.8 Serengeti 2002 at 37,000 (ish) miles. Obtained Sep '09

Had HGF in January this year and also the HDC light constantly on although i have checked everything in relation to the light and it's still on (might just need resetting at a garage).

Also the rotary coupler needs replacing as i got no horns, better get it fixed before the MOT in April .

Picked up my Td4 ES but a mere week ago and had to take it straight back due to the rear diff being completely ban-jacksed so thats one...

AND my previous Hippo was a 1.8 XEi - lovely car apart from the headgasket going bang and eating TWO starter motors...which simply exploded showering the gearbox in shrapnel.

You have to love them though

Update: rear brakes got stuck. Hmmm, too familiar. Took them apart myself. No grease to be found anywhere. Did find enough brake dust to build a very nice and big sandcastle. Again LaRo dealer in Lelystad (Jacop Schaap) proves to be staffed with morons. No cleaning or greasing after pad replacement...

I had a 1999 T plate petrol 3 door hardback, with roof bars, soft nudge bar with spots and lamp guards. Cost me 3 grand when i bought it in 2007, with 64k and full service history. Looked fantastic. I did 26k miles (mostly hard miles) in it in one year and it never, ever let me down. I miss it. Only real fault was that the rear window motor needed some persuasion to lift the window.
Now we're saving up for another for my missus!

Broke down twice and needed AA with failure to start, and stalling at idle when engine is warmed up. (Had to replace the High Pressure Fuel Sensor on the fuel rail, wiring loom, and O-ring). £200 'special offer'

Rear door seal gone, £90 'special offer' should be £123 from dealer. This has caused tailgate door latch, lock mechanism and Torx bolts to significantly rust. Also noted wheel bolts are rusted, starter motor has surface corrosion, and rear lamp screws all corroded. Am slightly suspicious my car used to go through 3 feet of water on a daily basis, or LR produce crap fixing that rust.

Intercooler pipe has cracked causing oil to splatter onto bottom of engine block and plastic cabling. Will need new pipe and a clean up.

HDC error light on and off, appears to have magically fixed itself.

Rear drum brake paint has come off in large sections now with unsightly surface rust. Wheel need removing, drums rubbing down, re-painting.

FBH randomly activating itself despite no longer cold weather (under 5c) other times, fine.

Lacquer is coming off on the 18'' wheels, and also fallen off on the centre caps.

Car is 6yrs old. Will fix all niggling faults, replace other potential problem parts and persevere into getting a mint Freelander as it's practically the smallest 4x4 out there with good styling and decent equipment levels yet still parkable in small places. (Unlike a huge Disco/Range Rover). Still loyal to the cause of the Religion of Hippos. (Won't get a Suzuki Vitara/Toyota Rav 4 out of principle, even if they are superior to a freelander off-road).

Newbie to the forum.....Got a 1.8 petrol freelander which I have had since new. It had the HG done at 65k now at 75k it is using 1 bulb off coolant a week. I like the car and use it to carry my two dogs about and would rather replace the engine, but what with?
I have done a few searches, would appreciate if any longstanding guys could point me in the right direction...

Edit.. Should have added can't find leak and it pressure tests ok!!!

jim-m said:

Newbie to the forum.....Got a 1.8 petrol freelander which I have had since new. It had the HG done at 65k now at 75k it is using 1 bulb off coolant a week. I like the car and use it to carry my two dogs about and would rather replace the engine, but what with?
I have done a few searches, would appreciate if any longstanding guys could point me in the right direction...

Edit.. Should have added can't find leak and it pressure tests ok!!!

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Try a little plastic-compatible grease (basic lithium should be fine) on the reservoir bottle threads and round the top of the neck (to help you get it all the way on before it gets stiff - the seal is the top of the bottle to the flange in the cap). Tiny seeming steam leaks there add up to pints quickly.

the expansion bottle could have cracks in it, usually around the top.

Thanks guys I had a look and it is cracked. It was cracked all round the top underneath the paper label. There are quite few cracks, so they will add up...

Ok where do i start.......
All for my 1.8 petrol x.

1) Sun roof rail snapped where cord goes into it, bad design ( plastic too thin)
2) drivers window motor packed in.
3) abs lights on and off like a yoyo,
4) Engine fell out, ! both bolts on the drivers side snapped engin was resting on the sump and edge of engine mount.
5) heating up, and fans dont come on
6) Kept stopping, tried and changed all sorts, in end was the metal can in the petrol pump ass, clogged up,
7) clutch master cyl push rod fell out, the one thats att to the pedel, so the pedel then comes up to the dash with the aid of the spring !!!
8) rear window leaks
9) crap MPG
10) cent locking on drivers door packed in,
11) tape radio, kept needing code to use it.
12) aircon does not work even tho was filled up.
13) goes through tyres fast even tho iv had tracking and wheel set up twice.
14) both door mirror backs fell off.
ETC ETC ETC

and as much care and cash i give it it still carys on taking the pi@@ out of me,,,,,,,
Well no more you hear, NO MORE...
for sale freelander, compleate with wife, and empty cheque book!!!
you know you want it,

I have just bought an immaculate TD4 which although 9 years old has done only 43,000 (apparently genuine miles). On the test drive and the 160 mile drive home all was fine. When however I came to reverse the vehicle on full lock, it jumped out of gear and doesn't like to be put back into either reverse or 1st whilst on full lock. No-one has given me yet any ideas as to what this could be except the viscous coupling whatever that is (I am a bit numb on these matters). In all other aspects the gearbox is fine, no rattles, whines, crunches or jumping out of gear on the over run. Anyone any ideas? It's going to a Landrover dealer next week - do I need to start saving?

XRXM said:

I have just bought an immaculate TD4 which although 9 years old has done only 43,000 (apparently genuine miles). On the test drive and the 160 mile drive home all was fine. When however I came to reverse the vehicle on full lock, it jumped out of gear and doesn't like to be put back into either reverse or 1st whilst on full lock. No-one has given me yet any ideas as to what this could be except the viscous coupling whatever that is (I am a bit numb on these matters). In all other aspects the gearbox is fine, no rattles, whines, crunches or jumping out of gear on the over run. Anyone any ideas? It's going to a Landrover dealer next week - do I need to start saving?

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Search for 'Tippex test' there are lots of threads and pics on this forum.

jim-m said:

Thanks guys I had a look and it is cracked. It was cracked all round the top underneath the paper label. There are quite few cracks, so they will add up...

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Ok ....changed the bottle and it has helped. The car did a 300 mile trip and never missed a beat and never used a drop of water, but on short runs it does. I think something must be leaking as it cools and this will be causing the loss on short runs.....Any ideas where to start looking. I can't find anything obvious...