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Freelander Faults poll

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Northern Irelander, Mar 14, 2008.

?

What faults have you encountered on your FL1

This poll will close on Jul 31, 2035 at 9:57 AM.
  1. Petrol engine problems

    18.4%
  2. 2L L-series engine problems

    4.4%
  3. Td4 engine problems

    24.5%
  4. Transmission, VCU, IRD, Diff problems

    34.7%
  5. Electrical problems

    30.8%
  6. Body fittings, Window mechanism problems etc

    39.6%
  7. Suspension problems

    7.7%
  8. Steering problems

    5.9%
  9. Brake problems

    17.3%
  10. Misc/Other problems

    23.0%
Multiple votes are allowed.
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  1. bluegrass

    bluegrass Member

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    The only problem with these motors is the people who own them i.e. lack of maintenance and changing parts when they should be changed.
    After all, if you had a car that said the belt should be changed at x amount of miles you wouldn't be daft enough to ignore it, would you?!
     
    DCUNNINGHAM likes this.
  2. DCUNNINGHAM

    DCUNNINGHAM Active Member

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    You have hit the nail on the head there:)
     
    Rank Amatuer likes this.
  3. bluegrass

    bluegrass Member

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    Hi DUNNINGHAM. Woman who had this Freelander before me just about ran it into the ground. already spent over £2000 putting right and i'm nearly there. Still got a strong smell of fumes at times but at least it's not burning oil now.Changed everything major (turbo/injectors etc)so i can only put it down to a fueling problem problem. Any ideas.
     
  4. DCUNNINGHAM

    DCUNNINGHAM Active Member

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    You got to keep on top of things
    I've just fitted 2 new rear hub bearings
    2 outer cv boots
    2 rear brake hubs
    Only done as I had vibration on back end
    And after all that it was the radial tyres
    So changed wheels with a good set of tyres and it's fine
    I don't mind spending the money the car is mint and at the end of the day it provides a service to my family no good driving them into the ground :)
     
  5. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    London
    Bought my 1.8 K-series Hippo as Spares and Repairs with 82k miles on the clock.
    1. Top end of the engine rebuilt with replacement second hand cylinder head (previous failed HGF and inadequate repair)
    2. Both lower ball joints (replaced complete with lower wishbones)
    3. Replaced steering arms (old ones seized, and the upper ball joints on their way out)
    4. Replaced both front brake calipers (could have been rebuilt - one side seizing, the other had damaged dust shield on the piston, but new parts were so cheap!)
    5. Rebuilt/cleaned sticking rear drum
    6. Replaced OSF ABS sensor and Yaw/G - sensor to solve the "Three Amigos" problem
    7. Persisting bearing noise - almost certainly front VCU carrier bearing - on list to sort out
    8. Rust hole under the rear door handle

    Not too bad I don't think for a neglected Freebie. There are a few items of broken trim (replaced the rear ashtray, the passenger side air vent is broken - needs replacement, the gear lever gaiter has a small split in it) but currently nothing that reduces the enjoyment of what otherwise seems to be a remarkably solid little car :)
     
  6. Stuart hall

    Stuart hall Active Member

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    You'd need more pages than the bible !
     
  7. DevonGuy

    DevonGuy Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    North Devon
    2006 td4 Adventurer
    Tailgate handle springs
    Front wishbone
    VCU support brgs
    Injectors
    But it's never let me down, has travelled from Northumberland to Brittany, is comfortable, a good distance car (and I'm no spring chicken), and p!ssed past everything else in last week's snowfall. Possibly (with the exception of the Fiat Panda) the most under-rated car I've owned.
     
    Nodge68 and Alibro like this.
  8. Stuart hall

    Stuart hall Active Member

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    Rather wasted here as it never snows and on the whole main roads are better than uk.
    But I guess at some time the usual trouble with four wheel drive as now two.
    Very vague steering, very underpowered,
    95 hp from new ?
    Brakes only just up to the job,
    British Leyland quality wiring
    Dealers who don't care
    Constantly in JD powers etc as one of the most unreliable vehicles on the road
    Nearly bankrupted warranty claims firms
    Need anymore ?
    Yes we just love em !
     
  9. Bowyer

    Bowyer Member

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    Perthshire, Scotland
    Undiagnosed ABS and three amigos with lots of rust!
     
  10. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! :D
     
  11. SwedishPete

    SwedishPete Member

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    Location:
    Bromölla, Sweden
    2001 1.8 ES Manual
    Bought off Ebay for £250 with 4 new Grabbers fitted and 9 months MOT so no brainer to me.
    New bolts for starter motor
    New coil pack
    That sorted problems I bought it with. Since then outside of normal servicing
    Driver's window regulator. Broken cable knackered the mechanism
    O/s anti-roll bar link
    VCU bearings
    Front wiper motor
    N/s anti-roll bar link
    Exhaust gasket

    2006 TD4 HSE Auto
    Also bought of Ebay but without faults and 7 months MOT
    Crankshaft pulley - packing collapsed
    That's all but only had it 7 months so far

    Lot less problems than I had with the wife's VW, which eventually got sent to the knackers yard last autumn. I'll stick with LRs thanks
     
  12. jake61

    jake61 Member

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    Location:
    Dingwall Highlands
    Needed a 4x4 in a hurry for a job on a wind farm at 2500', in winter. Bought it for £900.
    So far it has had;
    Centre diff mount.
    Diff seals.
    Battery
    Passenger front window regulator.
    Was going to fit a rear door regulator, but on stripdown, found a bit of 2x2 propping up the glass. Removed this, reset it, fine ever since.
    Back box.
    4 x Event All Terrain tyres.
    Rear wheel bearing today.
    It is solid, reasonably comfy, reliable and hasn't let me down in the 9 months I've had it.
    Bought at 178,000, flew through the MOT and is now at 198,000 miles.

    All in, it's been a good work horse and I will buy another, newer one.
    The above cost around £330.00, including £200.00 for the tyres. My Son is the Manager in a local garage and owes me far too much to charge me labour, so I'm not complaining.
    My local Audi garage would charge me that for a diagnostic on my A3, so the cost for 20,000 miles is pretty good.
     
    kernowsvenski, DCUNNINGHAM and Alibro like this.
  13. dampsox

    dampsox Active Member

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    2001 TD4 152,000 miles

    3/4 electric windows now dead, waiting money to get the generic bits to fix. replaced the tailgate window mechanism recently. Biggest costs have been occasional front steering & suspension parts, the ABS sensors. Only breakdowns were fuel-pump failure, Ancil' Belt Tensioner failure and a recent total coolant leak (as described elsewhere by me today). Full Service history and it pays.
    Aircon works a charm, fixed the nice Webasto engine & Parking pre-heater myself. With Hankook tyres, a truly great Winter snow drive.

    As for the leaky tailgate...just silicone the entire top of the plastic trim at the back, right at the top at the join with the roof. It nails it completely. Now bone dry.

    Mine is in Chawton White. Not many left now.
     
  14. DCUNNINGHAM

    DCUNNINGHAM Active Member

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    window motors changed x 4
    New header tank fitted
    Also rear exhaust box
    Now I just need a new oil level dip stick as i can't see oil on it properly
     
  15. hd3

    hd3 Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    bought with 37k miles on clock
    current mileage .. 163k
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    at purchase ..
    vcu bearings replaced
    rear diff. f.mount replaced

    75k miles
    rear-arch l.p.fuel pump

    june 2014 .. ( 79k miles )
    changed tailgate lock mechanism

    july 2014 ..
    replaced exhaust back-box with stainless steel straight through unit
    ( old one rusted through )

    91,308 miles
    new clutch and pressure plate
    changed gearbox and ird oils
    new clutch master and slave cylinders
    new front nearside brake caliper
    new nearside tracking rod end
    replaced front and rear brake pipes
    fitted new coolant expansion tank ( old one had cracked around the top )

    6th august 2016 ..
    changed worn wiper linkage

    5th December 2016 .. 131k miles
    New ..
    f.brake calipers and brackets
    f. brake flexi hoses
    f.discs and guards
    suspension front lower arms and bushes
    anti-roll-bar clamps and bushes
    fuel tank cradle
    vcu bearings replaced due to perished rubber surround

    5 dec 2017 .. 152,467 miles
    offside frnt cv inner boot replaced
    handbrake cable replaced

    13th june 2018
    replaced fog light fastners
    ( captive nuts and screws )

    19th june 2018
    replaced coolant expansion tank
    ( again as it started to split at seam )

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2018
  16. DextheMax

    DextheMax Member

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    2003 Freely
    HGF twice.. fixed + head skim.. failed 3rd time now and need either new head or sold as scrap.

    Only problems i had with it though.. fair enough.
    Second time HGF was due to a leaking pipe begind the engine into the heater and it emptied it self on the highway..
    Oh well
     
  17. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member

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    You need to get the hardness of the head checked. If the car overheated badly the head has probably softened.
    What type of head gasket did you go for?
     
  18. DextheMax

    DextheMax Member

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    i was told to go for an uprated multi layered one so i did and had the timing belt done at same time .
     
  19. Alibro

    Alibro Well-Known Member

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    The MLS is only suitable in certain circumstances. I can't remember the exact details off hand but the liners must be level and proud by a precise amount.
    More often than not your better going for the Payne Elastomer gasket as it is more forgiving of imperfections.
     
  20. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Correct.
    The MLS is only suitable if all liners are within 1thou of each other and protrude from the block more than 2thou. The head also needs to be perfectly flat and the special bolts and stronger oil rail are also needed.
    That's the safest gasket to use unless the tolerances are as stated above.
     
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