Freelander 1 Freelander EV
- Thread starter Alibro
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Thanks mate, I just had a look through the thread and found the bit you're talking about.
He had made major alterations to the chassis and bodyshell so had to go through an IVA test which is a big deal.
My conversion has minimal changes so doesn't need such a detailed test.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
I'm still having issues with the car cutting out randomly so spent a bit more time trying to sort it.
Initially I had thought all the issues were related to the brake boost vac pump but several times it happened were on straight bits of road where I hadn't touched the brakes, also on one occasion it cut out when I flashed the headlights.
That made me think something else was going on then the other day while working on one of the leccy windows I heard the contactors in the boot trigger off and on. It made me think maybe there is an issue with the ground which connects directly to the chassis or the live which is fed through the inertia safety switch. I decided to run cables directly from the LV connection box to the boot and bypass the inertia switch.
This all happened on Christmas Day while the wimmin were watching Strictly so I still have to try it and see if it makes any difference.
Initially I had thought all the issues were related to the brake boost vac pump but several times it happened were on straight bits of road where I hadn't touched the brakes, also on one occasion it cut out when I flashed the headlights.
That made me think something else was going on then the other day while working on one of the leccy windows I heard the contactors in the boot trigger off and on. It made me think maybe there is an issue with the ground which connects directly to the chassis or the live which is fed through the inertia safety switch. I decided to run cables directly from the LV connection box to the boot and bypass the inertia switch.
This all happened on Christmas Day while the wimmin were watching Strictly so I still have to try it and see if it makes any difference.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of it Ali. It's likely a bad connection somewhere, since it appears random in nature.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Big change happening.
The power steering solution I had come up with is not cutting the mustard so is currently being removed. It's a pity after all the work I put into it but when parking it wasn't giving enough assistance and lacked the torque needed when the end stop was reached so sometimes just cut out.
It was OK when first installed but a couple of months ago after completing the build I was charging the main battery and stupidly left the power steering turned on, low so it wasn't spinning but still on. I never figured out why but for some reason the DC motor controller that should have been feeding 7V to the rotor decided instead to pass through the full 40ish Volts. I had no idea this had happened until I noticed a funny smell and after several minutes trying to figure out where the smell was coming from saw smoke coming from under the bonnet.
As you can imagine there was some degree of panic before I figured out what the issue was but by then I think the alty motor had been irreparably damaged and hasn't been quite 100% since and might even be getting worse so now is being replaced.
It's a Volvo electric hydraulic power steering pump that can be controlled by CAN but works fine with only 12V.
I've tested it and it seems to be great so I'm going ahead and doing the swap.
The power steering solution I had come up with is not cutting the mustard so is currently being removed. It's a pity after all the work I put into it but when parking it wasn't giving enough assistance and lacked the torque needed when the end stop was reached so sometimes just cut out.
It was OK when first installed but a couple of months ago after completing the build I was charging the main battery and stupidly left the power steering turned on, low so it wasn't spinning but still on. I never figured out why but for some reason the DC motor controller that should have been feeding 7V to the rotor decided instead to pass through the full 40ish Volts. I had no idea this had happened until I noticed a funny smell and after several minutes trying to figure out where the smell was coming from saw smoke coming from under the bonnet.
As you can imagine there was some degree of panic before I figured out what the issue was but by then I think the alty motor had been irreparably damaged and hasn't been quite 100% since and might even be getting worse so now is being replaced.
It's a Volvo electric hydraulic power steering pump that can be controlled by CAN but works fine with only 12V.
I've tested it and it seems to be great so I'm going ahead and doing the swap.
Last edited:
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 32,504
- Location
- Near Newquay
That is a big change Ali, but it does do away with a separate battery for the PS.
Is it possible to co control it via PWM? It would be so useful to use the PWM speed signal from the ABS module to alter PS assistance.
Is it possible to co control it via PWM? It would be so useful to use the PWM speed signal from the ABS module to alter PS assistance.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Yes mate, the extra battery will go but I don't think it will effect the range as much as I feared. When I tested the Zafira PS pump it was drawing minimum 25A and over 40A at 12V which was crazy. This one spooled down quickly to around 5A and didn't go much above 10A yet still gave great assistance. It also seems to be a LOT quieter than the Zafira pump was but I still think the Zafira pump was faulty so it's hard to be sure. It is certainly no louder than the Alty Motor solution and may even be quieter.
I've read the Volvo pump runs at around 75% with only 12V applied but can be controlled with CAN.There are Arduino sketches online that I might try but it may not be necessary I'll know better after more testing,
For now the big issue is removing the alternator as the method I used to bolt it to the cradle requires removing the bumper and disassembling half the kit under the bonnet to get it out using conventional methods.
I've tried breaking the mounts with a hammer and chisel but my welding was better than I thought so will try plan B today.
Last edited:
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
After a ball ache of a job involving spanner, grinder, dremel, crow bar, cold chisel, 4 pounder and engine hoist the altymotor is finally out and the old mount is cut down enough to get the Volvo pump in.
This is it as I almost finished winding out one side half way. Doing this released one corner but I basically smashed it out of the other three.
This is the Volvo pump in situ, it fits well so shouldn't be too hard to secure and after a brief test drive is quiet enough it can only be heard when stationary but gives enough assistance for parking etc.
This is it as I almost finished winding out one side half way. Doing this released one corner but I basically smashed it out of the other three.
This is the Volvo pump in situ, it fits well so shouldn't be too hard to secure and after a brief test drive is quiet enough it can only be heard when stationary but gives enough assistance for parking etc.
Last edited:
- Posts
- 3,356
- Location
- Near Heathrow.
Much better solution. Are you using something on the steering shaft or rack to trigger the pump rate ?
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
No mate. Simply hooked up two high current wires to the battery and the low current signal wire to the ignition
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 5,177
- Location
- Devon
Had to post this simple EV conversion. Got the gold paint on order.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 25,264
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
lol, a lot simpler than Ali's conversion - but not quite the same effect.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
I've driven a few more miles now with the Volvo power steering pump and it is great. It's so nice being able to just climb into the car, turn the key and drive without fussing about the power steering pump.
I used the car for it's primary purpose yesterday, i.e. as a workhorse. It performed perfectly which was really nice.
I'm still getting intermittent cutout but slowly trying to track the issue down.
I used the car for it's primary purpose yesterday, i.e. as a workhorse. It performed perfectly which was really nice.
I'm still getting intermittent cutout but slowly trying to track the issue down.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
New video.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
I managed to sort the tow bar electrics today with a new socket that came complete with bracket and cable fitted, then painted the rusty hitch and bumper protector.
I was able to connect into the original tow bar wiring colour for colour so it was really easy to connect and tested perfectly with even the buzzer for indicators working. Very very loudly but working. After wrapping half a roll of insulating tape around it I jammed the buzzer into a corner and put the boot liner back on.
I was able to connect into the original tow bar wiring colour for colour so it was really easy to connect and tested perfectly with even the buzzer for indicators working. Very very loudly but working. After wrapping half a roll of insulating tape around it I jammed the buzzer into a corner and put the boot liner back on.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
I managed a few more small jobs today and sorted out a couple of issues.
The brake light came on a week or so ago and wouldn't go out so after spending ages looking for the fault at the hand brake it finally dawned on me to check the brake fluid reservoir and sure enough I'd managed to damage the connector so a bit of pushing and all is well. It might come back but for now is fixed.
I also had an issue with the brake boost recently where it died on me a mile or so from home. I drove home slowly but the weird thing is when I turned the car off and on it worked again. I think the issue was a poor connection at the power plug going into the Arduino that controls it so I soldered wires directly to the Arduino so it can't be an issue again.
I also had a go at securing the power steering pump but rather than fabricating a fancy metal bracket I went with this.
This is foam packaging from a big heavy file server box so is pretty high quality. I don't think the pump will get hot enough to melt it and it's pretty well jammed in so shouldn't move. Some day I might replace the foam with a bracket but for now it will do.
Next I pulled back the 4mm sq 3 core flex I'd been using for the altymotor and connected up a 12V heater to try and give a little heat.
This is the one I bought.
s.click.aliexpress.com
I only have one side connected so far to see how well it works so will report back after testing.
The brake light came on a week or so ago and wouldn't go out so after spending ages looking for the fault at the hand brake it finally dawned on me to check the brake fluid reservoir and sure enough I'd managed to damage the connector so a bit of pushing and all is well. It might come back but for now is fixed.
I also had an issue with the brake boost recently where it died on me a mile or so from home. I drove home slowly but the weird thing is when I turned the car off and on it worked again. I think the issue was a poor connection at the power plug going into the Arduino that controls it so I soldered wires directly to the Arduino so it can't be an issue again.
I also had a go at securing the power steering pump but rather than fabricating a fancy metal bracket I went with this.
This is foam packaging from a big heavy file server box so is pretty high quality. I don't think the pump will get hot enough to melt it and it's pretty well jammed in so shouldn't move. Some day I might replace the foam with a bracket but for now it will do.
Next I pulled back the 4mm sq 3 core flex I'd been using for the altymotor and connected up a 12V heater to try and give a little heat.
This is the one I bought.
32.2ï¿¡ 8% OFF|12V/24V Car Vehicle Heater Portable 4 Outlet Heating Windscreen Demister Winter Warmer Defroster 500W For Vehicle RV SUV Truck| | - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
s.click.aliexpress.com
I only have one side connected so far to see how well it works so will report back after testing.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 25,264
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
The foam will probably stay like that till the next MOT is loomingI managed a few more small jobs today and sorted out a couple of issues.
The brake light came on a week or so ago and wouldn't go out so after spending ages looking for the fault at the hand brake it finally dawned on me to check the brake fluid reservoir and sure enough I'd managed to damage the connector so a bit of pushing and all is well. It might come back but for now is fixed.
I also had an issue with the brake boost recently where it died on me a mile or so from home. I drove home slowly but the weird thing is when I turned the car off and on it worked again. I think the issue was a poor connection at the power plug going into the Arduino that controls it so I soldered wires directly to the Arduino so it can't be an issue again.
I also had a go at securing the power steering pump but rather than fabricating a fancy metal bracket I went with this.
View attachment 306895
This is foam packaging from a big heavy file server box so is pretty high quality. I don't think the pump will get hot enough to melt it and it's pretty well jammed in so shouldn't move. Some day I might replace the foam with a bracket but for now it will do.
Next I pulled back the 4mm sq 3 core flex I'd been using for the altymotor and connected up a 12V heater to try and give a little heat.
This is the one I bought.
32.2ï¿¡ 8% OFF|12V/24V Car Vehicle Heater Portable 4 Outlet Heating Windscreen Demister Winter Warmer Defroster 500W For Vehicle RV SUV Truck| | - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
I only have one side connected so far to see how well it works so will report back after testing.
Huge congrats on the MOT pass … managed to get the same result for ours just before Xmas, now waiting on the change in registration. Great to see you up and running!
Alibro
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 7,036
- Location
- Northern Ireland
Thanks mate, I just had a look at your thread and it sounds very exciting.
Good luck with the DVLA.
Are you driving the car yet? If it is taxed insured and MOT'd then I can't see any reason why not.
Similar threads
- Mustypwnzj00
- alt.fan.landrover