Freelander 1 Freelander EV

It was very informative Ali. I can't wait till the next instalment.

Nodge68 said:

I can't wait till the next instalment.

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This lock down is really getting to us!!!!
EV....... The sequel!!!

Alibro said:

So I ordered both sizes and we'll see which is the best fit for my shaft. .

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I have a confession to make.
I've been so obsessing with the Leaf motor splines for so long I forgot I was ordering collars for the Freelander gearbox.
I even took time to measure the Leaf splines with a caliper so as to get the size right.
The two collars arrived yesterday and you guessed it. Both are too small.
Hopefully the next delivery will have one the right size.

Alibro said:

I even took time to measure the Leaf splines with a caliper so as to get the size right.
The two collars arrived yesterday and you guessed it. Both are too small.

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Ali, that's not like you. Fancy ordering the wrong size.

I'm looking forward to the next installment.

I watched the latest video again yesterday.
It appears the motor has a couple of holes quite close to the IRD end support holes. These are ideally placed to allow you to join the motor to the IRD, with an extended bracket, possibly extending it round the back, giving a mounting point for the lower tie bar too.
It'll need to be pretty sturdy, as it takes most of the drive torque, but I'm sure it's possible with some stiff 3mm plate, bent and welded at key points to tie the whole assembly together.

Nodge68 said:

Ali, that's not like you. Fancy ordering the wrong size.

I'm looking forward to the next installment.

I watched the latest video again yesterday.
It appears the motor has a couple of holes quite close to the IRD end support holes. These are ideally placed to allow you to join the motor to the IRD, with an extended bracket, possibly extending it round the back, giving a mounting point for the lower tie bar too.
It'll need to be pretty sturdy, as it takes most of the drive torque, but I'm sure it's possible with some stiff 3mm plate, bent and welded at key points to tie the whole assembly together.

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@Alibro - Mate, I don't mean to be cheeky, but your welding leaves a lot to be desired, so I was thinking that if you make a mock up of this tiebar that Nodge is suggesting using easy to work with materials such as wood / plastic / cardboard / gaffer taped together, and send it to me, I'll fab it up for you, just cover the postage.

Jayridium said:

@Alibro - Mate, I don't mean to be cheeky, but your welding leaves a lot to be desired, so I was thinking that if you make a mock up of this tiebar that Nodge is suggesting using easy to work with materials such as wood / plastic / cardboard / gaffer taped together, and send it to me, I'll fab it up for you, just cover the postage.

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How very dare you! My welding is wonderful!!!
NOT!
That's very kind of you mate. I was thinking of tacking the steel together and take it to a local welder but it will be some time before I get it ready.
When it is I'll look into the price of postage each way and decide if that's the best way to go.

Alibro said:

How very dare you! My welding is wonderful!!!
NOT!
That's very kind of you mate. I was thinking of tacking the steel together and take it to a local welder but it will be some time before I get it ready.
When it is I'll look into the price of postage each way and decide if that's the best way to go.

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Let us know one way or other, in the interim, here's a couple of the most recent things I've made, bigger skids for a remote controlled helicopter to allow it to have instrumentation underneath it's fuselage:










And a flutterby for my wife:




Although these welds arent the best as I had galvy and chrome and all kinds of jazz to burn through. The antennae on the flutterby are freelander brake shoe springs.

Jayridium said:

Let us know one way or other, in the interim, here's a couple of the most recent things I've made, bigger skids for a remote controlled helicopter to allow it to have instrumentation underneath it's fuselage:
View attachment 230734

View attachment 230735

View attachment 230736

View attachment 230737

View attachment 230738

And a flutterby for my wife:
View attachment 230739

View attachment 230740

Although these welds arent the best as I had galvy and chrome and all kinds of jazz to burn through. The antennae on the flutterby are freelander brake shoe springs.

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Very creative.

Jayridium said:

View attachment 230740

Although these welds arent the best as I had galvy and chrome and all kinds of jazz to burn through. The antennae on the flutterby are freelander brake shoe springs.

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Almost warrants a new thread, "Interesting, unusual or useful items made from LR parts"

I've got a lamp stand in the lounge which was top heavy and unstable. It's now got a 200tdi clutch cover plate welded to the bottom which fitted nice under the original cover so you can't see it.

Flossie said:

I've got a lamp stand in the lounge which was top heavy and unstable. It's now got a 200tdi clutch cover plate welded to the bottom which fitted nice under the original cover so you can't see it.

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For the last decade, my Christmas tree stand has been an old steering wheel with about 4" of inch diameter bar welded to the back of the boss. I drill a 1" hole up the middle of the trunk base, and plant the tree on the inch bar...

Alibro said:

LOL, I wondered if anyone would ask about the red paint.
I sprayed it through a small hole in the gearbox to mark the position of the coupler after moving it as close to the motor as it would go.
I also used it to mark one of the bolt holes where I couldn't get my bolt hole centre marker in because of the shape of the casing.

unfortunately the 9/16 spacer will have to stay. It's there because the bolt is right up against one of the motor mounts so there is no room for the bolt head. It's so tight to the motor I had to grind one side of the spacer to make it fit but there are plenty of other bolts securing the adapter plate to the gearbox so I'm not overly concerned about it.

They look like they were made to fit together because they were. I had to grind back a fair bit of the casings from the motor and the IRD to achieve the fit.

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I have a lathe. If you do me a sketch I can turn you up a spacer and post it to you. Then you can have your socket back! Alternatively, that adapter plate is pretty thick. Can you counterbore that hole and use a button head Torx (or Allen head) screw instead?

Avocet1 said:

I have a lathe. If you do me a sketch I can turn you up a spacer and post it to you. Then you can have your socket back! Alternatively, that adapter plate is pretty thick. Can you counterbore that hole and use a button head Torx (or Allen head) screw instead?

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Sorry I should have replied sooner.
Here is a couple of photo's showing the situation. As you can see there is another bolt beside it so I'm not concerned there is any problem with strength. The socket had to be cut back and ground down on one side so will never be used as a socket again anyway. I'm happy it will be OK and if I have second thoughts I'll follow your advice and use an Allen head bolt.
.

On the subject of a bracket to hold the IRD and Motor here is a CAD templet of the bracket (Binky style) I'm planning to make. BTW thank you to whoever it was that first mentioned this as to be honest it hadn't occurred to me it was required. On reflection the IRD would have been very badly supported without something.


It will be made in two pieces from 4mm or 5mm steel plate and welded together so should beplenty strong enough. I probably don't need the side piece but thought it would give the bracket some stiffness.

It was Nodge who suggested the bracket, and I've offered to fab it up for you. And now you have the CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) model made, do you want to send me the pattern to make it for you? My other thought is could you use a cap screw for the bolt with the spacer?

Jayridium said:

It was Nodge who suggested the bracket, and I've offered to fab it up for you. And now you have the CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) model made, do you want to send me the pattern to make it for you? My other thought is could you use a cap screw for the bolt with the spacer?

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Thank you very much for the kind offer but I've already made a start on it using 5mm steel.
To be honest the CAD pattern is not perfect and the lower part of the bracket requires a significant twist and some bends to make it fit so it really needs to be made here and test fitted as I go.
I have this part most of the way there. it just needs some fettling and trimming but I'll get the main part cut out and fitted before going any further with it.

Nae bother Ali, I was thinking you weren't hanging about when I see the reply. Before you strike an arc on that bracket, can you get your hands on a stick (MMA) welder? Or do you know anyone who has one? Reason I ask is your mig is most likely going to be about as much use for welding that as a soldering iron. As a rough guestimate you're going to need to use thicker wire, 1.1/1.2mm and be looking for ~170-180 amps from the mig to melt that thickness to give the weld proper penetration. I reckon a stick would do it in about 80-90amps, absolute tops 110 amps, with a 3.2mm or 4.0mm rod but playing with quite a long arc length to put more heat into the workpieces.

Alibro said:

I have this part most of the way there. it just needs some fettling and trimming but I'll get the main part cut out and fitted before going any further with it.

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Looking good Ali. Don't forget you'll need to find a place to anchor the lower tie bar too, which might well be able to come off that twisted cross support.

Jayridium said:

Nae bother Ali, I was thinking you weren't hanging about when I see the reply. Before you strike an arc on that bracket, can you get your hands on a stick (MMA) welder? Or do you know anyone who has one? Reason I ask is your mig is most likely going to be about as much use for welding that as a soldering iron. As a rough guestimate you're going to need to use thicker wire, 1.1/1.2mm and be looking for ~170-180 amps from the mig to melt that thickness to give the weld proper penetration. I reckon a stick would do it in about 80-90amps, absolute tops 110 amps, with a 3.2mm or 4.0mm rod but playing with quite a long arc length to put more heat into the workpieces.

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Yes mate I have an inverter stick welder so will use that. My mig is a Clarke 160 so not hopeless but may struggle with 5mm.

Nodge68 said:

Looking good Ali. Don't forget you'll need to find a place to anchor the lower tie bar too, which might well be able to come off that twisted cross support.

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Good point John. I'll probably just tack the bracket together until I've confirmed the position of the lower tie bar.

5mm might be a bit thicker than you really need ? Not sure how thick the standard IRD to Engine bracket is, but I'm sure it was thinner & perfectly ok.

pwood999 said:

5mm might be a bit thicker than you really need ? Not sure how thick the standard IRD to Engine bracket is, but I'm sure it was thinner & perfectly ok.

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True but it was better designed so probably stronger if anything.
Unfortunately I can't find my original bracket.
I spent over an hour yesterday looking for it before giving up to make my own but it probably wouldn't have helped much anyway.