Freelander Diesel sport 2006 various issues

Hi, just acquired the above vehicle and have the following issues I would like to try and fix. Both rear doors will not open from interior or exterior. Electric remote fob will not lock doors on central locking. Central locking will not work manually from key. Drivers door mirror will not fold electrically. Rear passenger window the same side will not operate. SRS light illuminated. That’s it currently but may update if I find more problems. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Doors that don't open need new locks assemblies. The mirror fold motors can fail, but could also suffer from a faulty fold ECU, or corrosion on the contacts.

Windows just need new cables or regulator assembly.

SRS will need a diagnostic read to find the fault.

The remote fob could have a faulty micro-switch. The car came with 2 for a reason.

Nodge68 said:

Doors that don't open need new locks assemblies. The mirror fold motors can fail, but could also suffer from a faulty fold ECU, or corrosion on the contacts.

Windows just need new cables or regulator assembly.

SRS will need a diagnostic read to find the fault.

The remote fob could have a faulty micro-switch. The car came with 2 for a reason.

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Thanks for reply. Can the interior door panels be removed with the doors closed then to gain access to the lock assemblies? Yeah only one remote. Can’t be certain but seem to remember hearing lock operations when I tried it earlier today. Will take better look at this lotnin the morning.
Will a standard diagnostic tool read the SRS faukt it has it got to be Hawkeye etc?

currycowboy said:

Can the interior door panels be removed with the doors closed then to gain access to the lock assemblies?

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It's possible but not easy. You could try pulling up the button with a sharp pointer, to see if that allows the door to release.

currycowboy said:

Will a standard diagnostic tool read the SRS faukt it has it got to be Hawkeye etc?

Click to expand...

It needs to be an LR specific, multi module code reader. So a Hawkeye, or Icarsoft I930 or some other device that reads the SRS module.

Nodge68 said:

It's possible but not easy. You could try pulling up the button with a sharp pointer, to see if that allows the door to release.

It needs to be an LR specific, multi module code reader. So a Hawkeye, or Icarsoft I930 or some other device that reads the SRS module.

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Ok I spoke with the previous owner and he said all the electrical issues rear doors not working and windows happened at the same time.
I have spent a bit of time trying remote fob and pulling up internal button and the door will still not open. I can feel all 4 actuators have power to them when I press the remote due to vibration through the door panel on operation. If the internal door release handle is pulled the button moves up fractionally by about 4-5 mm if I press the open button on key fob it moves no further, if I press the lock button it recedes back to normal locked position. If I hold down the unlock button on the fob long enough the rear tailgate glass retracts but no other windows operate in that manner some do however work on the window buttons upon depressing. I have a hunch that it is something more than door locks on rear doors causing them to stay locked. Anyone have any other suggestions I can try . My next step is to try and remove the interior door panels but suspect this is going to be difficult due to the fact the doors are shut and this leaves little room.... I have had numerous landy’s All have been aggro about time I buy an unlocked Hawkeye or stop buying them

The tail door window will go down, if the unlock button on the fob is held down. This is so you can put things in the boot, without opening the actual door, which seems odd, but that's how it was designed.

It sounds like the door lock actuators have failed. There are 2 electric motors in the door looks. 1 for standard locking, and the other for super-locking. All doors super-lock with the fob, but only the drivers door opens with a single press on the unlock button. A second press on the unlock, or pressing the lock/unlock button on the dash/door arm rest (year depending) will, or should release the other door locks. If the other doors don't release after a second button press or internal button, then the door lock actuators are suspect.

The rear side windows are completely independent of the locking, so those will be just the cables, which is extremely common on these cars.

Nodge68 said:

The tail door window will go down, if the unlock button on the fob is held down. This is so you can put things in the boot, without opening the actual door, which seems odd, but that's how it was designed.

It sounds like the door lock actuators have failed. There are 2 electric motors in the door looks. 1 for standard locking, and the other for super-locking. All doors super-lock with the fob, but only the drivers door opens with a single press on the unlock button. A second press on the unlock, or pressing the lock/unlock button on the dash/door arm rest (year depending) will, or should release the other door locks. If the other doors don't release after a second button press or internal button, then the door lock actuators are suspect.

The rear side windows are completely independent of the locking, so those will be just the cables, which is extremely common on these cars.

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Thanks for the reply. Not sure how I’m going to get the rear doors open. As the mechanism is bolted to the metal of the door which can only be accessed when the door is open. So not sure taking off the interior panel will be of any use bearing in mind I have already pulled up the button manually as far as it will go at the same time as having an ”assistant” try the exterior door handle and interior to no avail. Not sure there is any other latch levers on the lock itself which I can move inside the door which will free the door open if I take the panel off to get to it?

Still no luck. Tried unbolting door hinge but doesn’t help as check strap stops door from coming off. Took drivers door lock out as central looking not working, stripped it down found burnt out motor, took a motor from a Merc lock I had which shares the same motor. Got lock working and can now hear the rear door locking mechanism working 3 times stronger but door still won’t open. I am really stuck on this one guys. The only other option I think I. Am left with is to angle grind the interior metal on the door surrounding the lock to then cut the lock out along with the rear catch plate that the lock hooks onto. Will then have to get door welded up and buy lock and catch plate.... will leave it a week to see if anyone can chuck some other options at it.

It's better to destroy the lock assembly, rather than cut the door or frame about.

The lock is mostly plastic, and so can be disassembled from inside the door. I've done it one on a Rover 75, which uses the same actuators. I can't remember quite how I did it now, but once the plastic locking mechanism was removed, I worked out what lever was moved by the motors, so the door could be released with the handle. It's not easy to do, but there is a way, although somewhat destructive to the door lock.

Thanks for all replies so far. Locks have been ordered and have arrived so going to get stared tomorrow and see what demolishing can be done!!