Freelander brakes

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Posts
17
Location
Newcastle
Hi again guys and girls hope your all well. I mentioned in a previous post that i was going to take my landy off the road for a brake service and finally got round to it but have run into a bizarre situation.
i went for a full service which included new discs drums pads and shoes all round as well as changing a corroded brake line (Front left) flexi pipes and even a new cylinder for the front left.
when i did the rears i adjusted the shoes up and and did the handbrake adjustment and then moved on to do the front brakes . after i fitted brake pipe i needed to move the landy for reasons i cant say .
without bleeding the brakes first which went well as can be until next day.
for some reason the back wheels have locked up .....have i made i stupid error . Other than that life is well :) but i need advice please
 
Impossible to say as you have had rear brakes apart. Probs best to pop the drums off and see if everything is fitted correctly and springs in right place etc.
 
The usual advice is to take a pic when you take the drums off - so you can check it all went back the same.

Bit late now, but there are pics on here of the correct setup - a search for brake threads might help.
 
Whatever you do if you do this job, do not pry the drum off like in the video, all you have to do is take out the rubber grommet at the rear and turn the knurled nut, so it adjusts the shoes inwards, and the drum will slide off, this guy is a butcher, even if your shoes were good, they would not be after his effort, not a place or person to do your brakes that's for sure.
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Push the clip in and it will slide down.
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Pull the cable and it will also slide out.
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As above you need to take off the drum and check it all again.
 
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I undersand why changing the drum brake shoes, but the drums are pretty solid, and stay round, the black paint need to be redone, but not an issue.
Think its to do with the (insides) of the drums wearing, meaning they are a bigger 'circle' and the shoes are not designed to operate like that - ie shoes will need to bed into the drum circumference, and then you'll get spots on the shoes where they wear to fast and won't work at their optimum.
 
but the drums are pretty solid, and stay round, the black paint need to be redone, but not an issue.

The drums wear at a rate of about 0.15mm per 10,000 miles covered.
This means that by the time the drums have covered 100k miles, they are outside the wear specification of 1.49mm over the 254mm new dimension.
In reality, by the time the drums have worn to 0.75mm over the 254mm new dimension, the brake efficiency has dropped markedly.
 
The usual advice is to take a pic when you take the drums off - so you can check it all went back the same.

Bit late now, but there are pics on here of the correct setup - a search for brake threads might help.
I did take pics and I am very positive they went back together I did check. My thoughts are can the pistons spread out too far or handbrake cable seized
 
I did take pics and I am very positive they went back together I did check. My thoughts are can the pistons spread out too far or handbrake cable seized

If you got the right brake cylinder, pistons can't spread too far. I actually managed to order wrong drums from autodoc.

Check the lever where the cable is attached inside the drums. It's prone to seize, mine was absolutely solid when I bought the car.
 
I actually managed to order wrong drums from autodoc

The early drums are narrow compared to the later drums, as the later shoes use a different handbrake assembly.
If the early drums are fitted to the later brake assembly, the handbrake assembly will hit the drums, causing the issue you had.
 
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