Freelander Brake light problem.

Hi guys and galls, new to this forum so hello!

I have a head ache with my 2004 TD4. The two cluster brake lights at the back wont work. Now I know its not the brake switch as the top brake light above the spare wheel works. I know its not the bulbs as I have replaced them, and the rear fogs light them up anyway. Its a total mistery to me. Obviously I have checked the fuses etc. all fine ??

Such a strange one.

Any help appreciated, cheers.

Wiring ?

Have you checked for a feed with a meter?

(Please go to 'Introduce yourself' section and get that out the way - and more answers will be forthcoming...

At a rough guess I'd say there's a lack of voltage to said bulbs

Thanks i'll take the volt meter to it. I'm not very good with electrics. I guess that when the brake pedal is pressed the voltmeter should show 12v when its tested between the cable and earth?

I'm beginning to think it may be a solenoid, my Heater blower has packed in too. Oh the joys of electrical problems lol.

Davidmarshall83 said:

Thanks i'll take the volt meter to it. I'm not very good with electrics. I guess that when the brake pedal is pressed the voltmeter should show 12v when its tested between the cable and earth?

I'm beginning to think it may be a solenoid, my Heater blower has packed in too. Oh the joys of electrical problems lol.

Click to expand...

Download free rave manual

I doubt very much there is anything wrong with the brake pedal switch or else the high level brake light wouldn't work either

And yes when the brake pedal is pressed the voltmeter should show 12v but you know it wont if the bulbs have been changed and still don't work.

Has the blower packed in or is that short on volts too??

Davidmarshall83 said:

Thanks i'll take the volt meter to it. I'm not very good with electrics. I guess that when the brake pedal is pressed the voltmeter should show 12v when its tested between the cable and earth?

I'm beginning to think it may be a solenoid, my Heater blower has packed in too. Oh the joys of electrical problems lol.

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If you don't know or are not comfortable with doing it - take it to an auto electrician or a mate who does know ... tis easy to fry things in a Landy

Have you a workshop manual or the Rave on your pooter?

The blower has packed in too. I used to be an electronics technician in a MUCH previous life so hopefully I wont blow anything. I've got the original Landrover wiring diagrams and workshop tech descriptions.

Looking at the brake lights problem.. I think it really has to be a bad earth as the wiring for the High brake lamp and bumper brake lamps are the same until they split at junction SJ24.

As for the Blower I think That could be fusible link 1 in the eng compartment as blower speed 4 is an independent feed from fuse 8 in series with link 2, so if it all speeds aren't working then its either a loose cable or perhaps a bad earth again??

Davidmarshall83 said:

The blower has packed in too. I used to be an electronics technician in a MUCH previous life so hopefully I wont blow anything. I've got the original Landrover wiring diagrams and workshop tech descriptions.

Looking at the brake lights problem.. I think it really has to be a bad earth as the wiring for the High brake lamp and bumper brake lamps are the same until they split at junction SJ24.

As for the Blower I think That could be fusible link 1 in the eng compartment as blower speed 4 is an independent feed from fuse 8 in series with link 2, so if it all speeds aren't working then its either a loose cable or perhaps a bad earth again??

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Land Rover standard operating procedure No.435 check all earths in the vicinity whilst doing other routine maintenance

Bromsgrove Defender said:

Land Rover standard operating procedure No.435 check all earths in the vicinity whilst doing other routine maintenance

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You may or may not ignore any ferrous oxide found during this according to the state of your wallet ...

Guys it's been such a long time, I feel so stupid asking this. But how do you test for an earth, say round at the brake lights. do u just measure resistance between the negative cable (black) and the chassis?

sorry for the suck eggs question Its been such a long time.

Dippypud said:

You may or may not ignore any ferrous oxide found during this according to the state of your wallet ...

Click to expand...

Bugger did I quote the wrong procedure number again

Davidmarshall83 said:

Guys it's been such a long time, I feel so stupid asking this. But how do you test for an earth, say round at the brake lights. do u just measure resistance between the negative cable (black) and the chassis?

sorry for the suck eggs question Its been such a long time.

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Multi-meter at light socket positive and vehicle chassis for 12V

Multi-meter at light socket earth and chassis for 0 ohms

Work from there......

Davidmarshall83 said:

Guys it's been such a long time, I feel so stupid asking this. But how do you test for an earth, say round at the brake lights. do u just measure resistance between the negative cable (black) and the chassis?

sorry for the suck eggs question Its been such a long time.

Click to expand...

Rear lighting runs along the right hand (UK drivers side) sill, and comes out behind the right rear quarter panel.
If it has non-standard towing fitted, the wiring could be scotch-locked and corroded away at the join?

Whichever, if you remove the rear quarter panel, you will find the wires you need to check.

If I remember rightly, there is a green/purple wire leaving the stop light switch and appears down the back in the wiring loom.

Check that for 12volts on it.

Follow it you should discover it is feeding the top centre-stop light on the door and also has two other tails off disappearing "into the woodwork" of the boot.
The other two stop lights have a Red/Yellow wire joined together and heading back up the loom to the front of the car.
This does not appear on the stop light switch. (I think they're rear fogs)

So as a test, join the red/yellows to the green/purple coming from the stop light switch and see if the bulbs light...

I know someone mentioned it already, but should'nt you check the earthing points first, clean em? if he's taking off the rear panels its a handy job and seems to go wrong a lot.

Going at wiring is a pain, Ive no taillights but my brakelights work fine, though mine, I suspect is related to trailer hitch that was wired in!

Earth points:



Fixx

Did you say your bumper brake liights work!!??

Thanks for all the feedback guys I really appreciate it.

First with the blower problem. I checked for voltage across fuse 4 point and surprise , surprise no voltage, I've checked the engine side and everything is fine. So the only problem it can be is the ignition switch.

As for the Brake lights, this is the strangest fault I've ever come across. Earths are good. Fuses are good, bulbs are good, Brake switch is good, top brake light works fine. When I put on the rear Fog lights the brake/fog lights come on. So I'm completely lost.

Oh forgot to say the only cables running into the brake/fog light are Black (-) and a red and yellow cable, is his correct?

Umm think that's you're problem - the rear fog lamps are not the same as the brake lamps!

Brake lights are in the same light cluster as the indicators and use a twin filament 5/21w bulb.

If your HIGH LEVEL brake light is working the problem could be due to corrosion caused by water ingress at the connectors behind lamps.

Use a test lamp with someone pressing pedal if all else fails...

All brake lights come from a yellow header joint C291,( Illustrated in Electrical Library Manual ) located behind right/hand rear trim panel close to seat belt reel above R/H rear shock absorber mounting.

If 1 light is working ( obviously fuse is ok, ) you should be able to trace circuit between this connector and the connectors to lamps, ( hope you have checked for corrosion at lamp connectors, as they are exposed to salt etc...