Freelander auto 2004 v6 F4 dash flash

Thanks for your advice, yeh I removed battery and charged it to just over 13v and still no joy,as soon as I try turn it over it simply clicks for a few seconds and then silence. I do have a new battery ordered to try. I also charged it via another car for 15 mins and it still didn’t do anything , it’s either complete a defect battery or there’s an issue aswell.In the car the lights , radio and other electrical items all work as if the batteries fine , headlights were full brightness for 10mins before I stopped. It’s really frustrating me this as it’s been a random intermittent fault for last 4 months, what makes it worse was randomly was when I tried usually the spare key and it actually did try turn over then straight away when back to F4

I think it's a good idea to get yourself a code reader. It'll pay for its self quickly. That way you can check live operation of things like the brake pedal switch.
There's loads out there depending on needs.
I'd take recommendation from one of the fl2 owners as to which one.

Thanks for your reply, I’ve already had a landrover reader on and only previously fault was break pedal switch which I have replaced and since cleared the reader, this is why is causing so many issues on exactly what is wrong or causing it , most F4 codes are immediately present on turning the ignition on , mines not but gets randomly triggered on trying to turn over . I was hoping the reader would flag up many other sensor issues which would stop a start up but none .

Reading through your issues, is the starter motor clicking? If so does the lights dim? Dimming lights would indicate it's trying to turn over but can't. Otherwise could be starter solenoid.
You mentioned a can bus error. I don't know but have you a bad earth any where? Could be related to the starter not operating fully.
Bleeding things motors!!!!

Yep tried that and still no joy. I’ve spent today removing the starter , which still looks new and contacts excellent, I have cleaned all the earth points and any corrosion on all cabling, I have stripped back to new cable and re tighten all battery connectors, I have also done this to the start motors , but I didn’t have a spare spade connectors so once I’ve ordered it il get that sorted . Every sensor in sight/ gbox connectors all cleaned with contact cleaner and wiring checked.
I friend did suggest has the anti lock system got an issue and that’s why it’s just not starting, and when it did try cranking it was with a spare key , although I would expect this to show up on the code reader.
Any how il give an update once I’ve sorted the starter connector out and put everything back together , fingers crossed

It won't be the ABS module, as that is completely independent from the engine ECU and gearbox TCM. Does it crank over?

Ok thanks , nope it hasn’t cranked over , only briefly when I tried spare key and cleaned all the barrel contacts and ignition switch , now it’s back
To just clicking , hence why I’ve removed started and now checking every cable I can see/ replacing and checking all earths areas for corrosion, I did find starter spade connector has just 1 split wire but can’t see that making a different . Hopefully be ready for fire up later

Adam131 said:

To just clicking , hence why I’ve removed started and now checking every cable I can see/ replacing and checking all earths areas for corrosio

Click to expand...

Have you tried applying battery voltage to the starter No 15 (small spade) terminal, to see if the starter turns independent of the ignition switch?

When my original starter packed up I had a brand new one fitted, it lasted about 3 weeks so I had to fit another. These starters are terrible so rule out a dodgy starter first.

Col

No I havnt , is it as simply as just holding the starter while I put the positive spade connector onto the male end and see if it works ? Does the main cable need to be added aswell to the starter aswell . Sorry this is something I’ve not done before

So after checking everything for the hundredth time some progress. After testing starter it seems ok , I’ve replaced spade connector and tidied wiring up. The F4 code has now vanished and it attempted to turn over 6 times ,Im low on fuel but still didn’t fire but it is now cranking , bad news was that after these attempt it then went dead and rapid clicking of started again. I even tried charging from another car battery from another car and a jump start but still didn’t fire but some cranking but the clicking starter again, starter relay replaced , my new battery hasn’t turned up yet so hopefully that resolves it . Still all a bit strange, Fuel pump working fine and spark plug all clean, could be that it’s been stood still for 3 weeks

Rapid clicking is due to the battery voltage at the starter isn't high enough to hold the solenoid across, so it clicks back and forth.

It sounds like a dead battery, or a bad connection somewhere.

Thanks for everyone’s help, new battery and replacement cable ran to stater and she’s working fine now, clear of codes and sliding great. Bit of a headache but with new battery and cabling defo resolved a simple fault but I think the corrosion of the earths was throwing the limp mode F4.
Next job , fine some new road/off-road R15 tyres , not full 4x4 muds but something for road and off-road marsh tracks etc , any suggestion on forums

Adam131 said:

Thanks for everyone’s help, new battery and replacement cable ran to stater and she’s working fine now, clear of codes and sliding great. Bit of a headache but with new battery and cabling defo resolved a simple fault but I think the corrosion of the earths was throwing the limp mode F4.
Next job , fine some new road/off-road R15 tyres , not full 4x4 muds but something for road and off-road marsh tracks etc , any suggestion on forums

Click to expand...

Glad it's sorted.

Tyres are a personal choice, but I and many others swear by Yokohama Geolander A/T 015. Although I'm not sure they come in 15", as the most common wheel size is 16".

Good afternoon, more help required please chaps ,


Freelander v6 failed mot on SRS warning light on, mechanic has tried everything but he can’t seem to find any fault , recently put the land rover reader on it and although it’s showing no faults it’s not letting us connect to OBD11/EoBD. This seem the case with the last 4 readers we have tried , snap on, laptop and Bosch and a icarsoft 3. What next ?
The light randomly come on 2 months ago and different any driving etc. I don’t want to spend huge amounts of money on it as it only does 2000 miles a year during the shooting season.
With all the expertise on this site does any one have any solutions before I scrap/sell it

As above test

The connections under the seats are common points for bad joints, and clock spring is a common too.