Freelander 2 Jolting

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SouthDevonFL2

New Member
Posts
7
Location
Devon
Evening all,

Really glad to have joined this community, it looks great.

I have a 2012 Freelander 2 and today it started to jolt quite regularly which seemed to be coming from the middle - rear of the vehicle. It didnt appear to be doing it at any specific time but it did it 3-4 times in quick succession, quite hard, when I slowed down and drove up a slope to then turn right into my driveway.

Any advice would be appreciated. I am taking it to my local garage tomorrow pm but thought I would see if anyone online recognises this issue. Its done just over 120k miles.

cheers,

Joseph
 
By jolting, do you mean it's from the drive line or from the engine?
A failing injector can feel like a jolt, which is normally felt through the body. Injectors failing normally start to show under power.

It could also be AWD related, which often shows up when cornering while applying power.

When was the rear diff and Haldex serviced?
 
Cheers. It feel like the drive line, not the engine.

I’ve not had the diff and haldex serviced since I got it (100k) so its now done just over 20k whilst in my ownership.

Is this typically a pricey job?

Nodge68 said:
By jolting, do you mean it's from the drive line or from the engine?
A failing injector can feel like a jolt, which is normally felt through the body. Injectors failing normally start to show under power.

It could also be AWD related, which often shows up when cornering while applying power.

When was the rear diff and Haldex serviced?
Click to expand...
 
SouthDevonFL2 said:
Cheers. It feel like the drive line, not the engine.

I’ve not had the diff and haldex serviced since I got it (100k) so its now done just over 20k whilst in my ownership.

Is this typically a pricey job?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately the Freelander 2 drive line isn't particularly durable, especially so as LR in their wisdom decided that these hard working components didn't need servicing for 10 years or 150k miles.
Other manufacturers using the same AWD system have service intervals of 30k or 4 years or there abouts.
Because of the stupidly long LR servicing intervals, many of the components fail long before the service is due.
It's not uncommon for rear diffs to start to whine at about 60k miles, requiring replacement. This often saves the Haldex as it would get a fluid change as part of the diff replacement process. However not all diffs fail early, and in these vehicles the Haldex often fails instead.
The other component which is basically ignored is the PTU. This is an important box of gears which takes power from the gearbox and sends it to the propshaft so the rear can be driven. The PTU is another item that fails, often about 60k miles, but some soldier on for longer before failing.
When the PTU fails (it's often the splined tube link to the gearbox), the drive can jolt and bang as the splines slip and strip. Some attribute PTU spline failure to Haldex grabbing, simply because there's no timely fluid changes specified.

It definitely needs to be inspected by someone who knows how the AWD system works, and what to look for when it begins to give issues.
 
Nodge68 said:
Unfortunately the Freelander 2 drive line isn't particularly durable, especially so as LR in their wisdom decided that these hard working components didn't need servicing for 10 years or 150k miles.
Other manufacturers using the same AWD system have service intervals of 30k or 4 years or there abouts.
Because of the stupidly long LR servicing intervals, many of the components fail long before the service is due.
It's not uncommon for rear diffs to start to whine at about 60k miles, requiring replacement. This often saves the Haldex as it would get a fluid change as part of the diff replacement process. However not all diffs fail early, and in these vehicles the Haldex often fails instead.
The other component which is basically ignored is the PTU. This is an important box of gears which takes power from the gearbox and sends it to the propshaft so the rear can be driven. The PTU is another item that fails, often about 60k miles, but some soldier on for longer before failing.
When the PTU fails (it's often the splined tube link to the gearbox), the drive can jolt and bang as the splines slip and strip. Some attribute PTU spline failure to Haldex grabbing, simply because there's no timely fluid changes specified.

It definitely needs to be inspected by someone who knows how the AWD system works, and what to look for when it begins to give issues.
Click to expand...
Thanks again, good knowledge!

I’ve just driven it again and it happens a lot when turning left or right, rather than driving straight. Not sure if that helps with your diagnosis. Dont suppose you’re based in South Devon by any chance?! ️
 
SouthDevonFL2 said:
Thanks again, good knowledge!

I’ve just driven it again and it happens a lot when turning left or right, rather than driving straight. Not sure if that helps with your diagnosis. Dont suppose you’re based in South Devon by any chance?! ️
Click to expand...
Sounds like it could be the PTU splines slipping.

Get whoever is checking it to see if the propshaft can be turned while the front wheels are stationary. It might take some considerable force to move, but the propshaft shouldn't be able to be rotated separately from the front wheels.

No, Cornwall.
Andyfreelandy is in North Devon, and has a 2 post lift, so might be able to help with a diagnosis.
 
There's a test you can do to prove it's AWD system related.
Pull the electronic diff fuse in the boot fuse box. It's fuse FB5 on mine if I remember correctly, and I think it's the same on the later version too.
It's in the handbook under electronic diff or something of that nature.
Pulling the fuse will give an error on the dash, but it'll prove the issue and prevent it doing more damage.
 
So my local garage have said the rear diff needs replacing.

I have seen some reconditioned ones with stronger ball bearings fitted sold by Bell Engineering. Anyone know if these are a good company?

Thanks again for all of your help.
 
SouthDevonFL2 said:
So my local garage have said the rear diff needs replacing
Click to expand...

The rear diff doesn't normally jolt, they go noisy until they seize up (don't ask how I know).

Jolting sounds like the PTU splines, but it's very possible that both PTU and diff have failed.

Bell Engineering are about the best place to get a replacement diffs and PTUs from. Yours will already have the large tail bearing fitted. It's a bad design of the lubrication causing bearing failure, not the bearings themselves.
 
OK thanks.Im concerned this garage is just guessing what the issue is. Bell Engineering are 3.5hours drive. Do you think our FL2 could cope with this journey given the issue?
 
SouthDevonFL2 said:
Bell Engineering are 3.5hours drive. Do you think our FL2 could cope with this journey given the issue?
Click to expand...

Many people drive to Bell from all over the country, and they have a good reputation for providing information on places to stay and offering a curtesy car.

Phone Bell for advice, they'll tell you what to do before driving up.
 
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