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Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 diesel engine problem. Cause identified, repaired, and running, with a misfire.

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Nodge68, Jul 15, 2020.

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  1. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    So what is this thing which caused all this damage?
    I believe that what is in the cylinder, is the mangled remains of one of these, two of which were missing. 20200802_175759.jpg It's either one of the missing nuts from the fuel filter crash guard, or one just like it.
    The mangled remains are definitely a nut, most likely an M6 flange nut. I suspect it was dropped in to the boost pipe, which was probably removed from the manifold, so access to the oil filter was better.
    There's a trap for young players, if a nut or bolt goes missing, make sure it's found, before starting the engine.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2020
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  2. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    yep think the crack on the left is the lack of compression.

    they have things like JB weld these days:p.

    J
     
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  3. Dippypud

    Dippypud Never Knowingly Understood

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    Beats superglue ...
     
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  4. paul99

    paul99 Active Member

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    Yep, it looks a lot more like the remains of a nut from seeing it in that second picture. How will you be proceeding, New engine, repair that one or another path?
     
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  5. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    I believe inspector Nodge may have got it.

    Looks like a mangled 1 I have to say:(.

    That’s another reason I use magnetic trays:) good when working upside down too:D.

    J
     
  6. Dippypud

    Dippypud Never Knowingly Understood

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    No good for the old brass manifold nuts on a Series tho ... ;)
     
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  7. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    The piston is fubar, and will need replacing.
    I'm coming to that.
    Exhaust on the left, inlet on the right, all are bent to a greater or lesser extent.
    20200802_163017.jpg
    Here it is. I reckon it's salvageable, as the valves took most of the battering.
    This was before I cleaned it up.
    20200802_163353.jpg
    This was after the valves were removed. Along with the nut remains that did all the damage. 20200802_163911.jpg

    There are some pits and dinks, but I reckon it'll probably be ok, once I've cleaned up the impact points.

    Two of the valve guides are cracked, which I'll need to replace, so more bits of metal don't find there way in to the compression chamber.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2020
  8. Dippypud

    Dippypud Never Knowingly Understood

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    Might have to 'tidy' the valve recess' too ... a few nicks here and there ... some 00 steel wool and she'll be sweet ...
     
  9. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    It's an easy and completely avoidable situation.

    Of course I'm now going to need to fix the engine, and remove the intercooler pipe, just to make sure there's no more missing nuts hiding inside.
     
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  10. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    There's a few places where the aluminium has peened over the valve seat, which actually appears to have saved the seats from too much impact damage.
    20200802_152555.jpg
    I can grind this peening away, and hopefully restore the valve seat enough for it to seal.

    The piston definitely took the brunt of the damage, which is annoying as it's a bugger to get them out on these, as the balancer shafts need removing first. 20200802_163637.jpg :(
     
  11. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    Not sure a brass nut would have done so much damage, but point taken:)

    Last time I saw a valve that wobbly was when I was a bad boy on my Zed.

    Is it worth the money or would a £200 breaker engine not be a better option?

    J
     
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  12. marjon

    marjon Well-Known Member

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    Sorry that seat looks fubar too.
    Or is it the pic.

    J
     
  13. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    The seats look fine, but it's not coming out on the pictures.
    I'll post more pictures of the head, once I've cleaned it up.
     
  14. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    You can't get a FL2 engine for £200. Working engines change hands for over £1200+ shipping, so that's not an option here.

    It'll be repaired, on a sensible budget.
     
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  15. Dippypud

    Dippypud Never Knowingly Understood

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    Best of luck with tickling it ...
     
  16. SWalker

    SWalker Active Member

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    ouch... I take it you are planning an in frame rebuild, that one piston only?
    God luck with the rest of the work..
     
  17. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    That's what I thought when I saw it.
    Yes. The engine will be remaining in the vehicle, and I'll be accessing the rod from below, and only on that one piston. It looks easy to get the sump off, it's only the balancer shafts that are my main concern, as I don't want to buy locking tools for them, if I can avoid it. I'm hoping I can get to the rod cap, without removing the balancer shaft assembly, but I'll not know until I get the sump off.
     
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  18. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi John.
    All i can say is WOW how did the car run with that damage? now you know why it as decent injectors, someone must have thought that was the trouble, good luck with the repair and big thank you for the ongoing photo pictorial ;) cardinal sin dropping a nut bolt & then think i will leave it, or find another to replace it without finding where the nut/bolt as dropped into / or its whereabouts, lots of garage mechanics do it :mad: bone idleness, but lets remember 99% time its not there car so why worry. Take a good look at the sump as well why you are there as they can rust from the outside, bad ones will have pinholes.
     
  19. potus

    potus Well-Known Member

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  20. raywin

    raywin Well-Known Member

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