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Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 diesel engine misfire. Cause identified and repaired.

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by Nodge68, Jul 15, 2020.

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  1. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    So it's home, and the 103 mile drive @50 gave me lots of time to test the interior equipment.

    I'm happy that everything works as it should, including the sat nav, although the disc is years out of date, as it showed me in a field on the new section of the A30, which was new about 10 years ago.:eek:
    So a more up to date nav disc is needed.

    Other thing I found is there's a whine from the rear, which is worse after climbing a hill, but quietens down again once it's been driving on the flat for a mile or so, so I'm thinking that could be diff oil past it's best.

    There's also a knock from the engine bay somewhere under vibrating acceleration, but that's probably because the engine is shaking about due to the misfire. The low coolant alert kept flashing up on the dash, but there's plenty of coolant, so I'm thinking sensor. Actually I seem to remember the D3 randomly did that sometimes too.:confused:

    On the road it tracks straight and true, and the steering wheel is a °or 2 off straight, so that's a good sign that all is well with the suspension.
    It has 2 new budget tyres on the front, a matching almost new tyre on the NS rear, and an odd budget tyre on the OS rear, which is on the wear indicators.
    So I need to find one matching tyre for a set, but will probably replace them with more premium tyres when these are worn out.

    Other than a bit of dirt on the driver side carpet and on the roof lining and some damage to the boot carpet, it's in amazing condition for its age. The 3 previous owners must have looked after it it think.

    It even managed 40Mpg on the drive home while misfiring, so it looks like it'll economical too.:)
     
  2. Hippo

    Hippo Lord Hippo

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    So that's worked out quite well then. It sounds like it's driving reasonably well. Lucky on the price. I always tend to fear the worst on the unknown when it comes to car sellers. They know the trade well and know the price for the condition. So it's rare they loose out.

    I found similar when comparing D4 to the FL2. Reduced weight and running costs... The ride difference v the additional running costs and complexity isn't worth it. Freelander's rule. ;)
     
  3. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    It has indeed. I'm looking at the engine now. I noticed that there's something been going on around the injectors, as there are spanner marks on the high pressure pipe union nuts. I notice that the injector harness is clipped in, so the wires for injectors 3 and 4 can't be reversed, but the wires for injectors 1 and 2 emerge from the end of the harness, and so could be fitted reversed.

    Any idea of the harness colour codes, so I make sure the plugs are on the correct injectors?
    They know there trade, so no they never loose out, except he did this time.:p
    He told me straight that I have a bargain. He said he was expecting it to go for about £2700 on ebay, which would have been good for him as he'd have made a few quid. However it fell well short of that, so it's cost him on this occasion. :p

    I'm happy with it, and that wife seems happy too, which is more important. :confused:
     
  4. Hippo

    Hippo Lord Hippo

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    This is from a MY15 SD4 engine. Same engine as the TD4, with a different turbo and a few other bits like injectors.
    Stand at the front of the FL2 and look towards the engine. Cylinder 4 is to the left, furthest away from the battery.
    Pic's as the colours are difficult to judge.

    4
    [​IMG]
    DSCN1516 M2pluRm

    3
    [​IMG]
    DSCN1517 hEbryQf

    2
    [​IMG]
    DSCN1518 TcEGhh5

    1
    [​IMG]
    DSCN1519 JAKK0al
     
    raywin and Nodge68 like this.
  5. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi Raywin.
    What bolt & washer was used please where from, what tool did you use to produce the thread, what drill size, any danger of drilling into anything during the process, and best way to go about it please.
     
  6. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi John.
    First sorry for that little highjack question :eek: nice to hear you got it home ok without any major problems, i can take a few photos of the engine bay latter for you and post up if you like cheers Arctic.
     
  7. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    That would be fantastic Arctic.

    I've not done anything to it today, as I've not finished an ongoing project, but I'm looking for a set of second hand injectors at the moment, which seem to be a good price (£100), which have the same numbers as mine.

    But yes some pics of yours would be cool, could you take a picture of your injector numbers and wiring colours too, as mine has been played with, so you never know what's gone on in the past.

    My plan is to replace the fuel filter, the crank position sensor and put a second hand set on injectors in it, in that order.

    Hopefully this will solve its issue. Cheers for any help on this.
     
  8. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    Hi John.
    I took these photo earlier today of the engine and the injectors before reading this post, so we may not make out the numbers but the wiring colours are there clearly.
    [​IMG]1

    Yellow & blue.
    [​IMG]2

    Green-g & Grey-g
    [​IMG]3

    Blue-y & Grey-y
    [​IMG]4

    Yellow-b & Green-b
    [​IMG]5

    Maybe worth checking out the two connections on the fuel rail as well see if the wire are ok no cracks and maybe remove connector and clean with switch cleaner.
    [​IMG]6

    [​IMG]7

    I will try blow up the photos and read numbers on injectors .
     
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  9. dfossil

    dfossil Active Member

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    Here's a picture of my 2010 HSE TD4 injectors - looks a bit different just to confuse - the common numbers on the injectors is 100204 9659229180 - one of mine looks to have been replaced. vehicle had done circa 85K when I got it. 2018-11-05 024.JPG 2018-11-05 010.JPG
     
  10. dfossil

    dfossil Active Member

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    Oh - and mines an auto
     
  11. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your input guy's.
    My injectors all look to be the same age, and the numbers match the above pictures. 20200718_173619.jpg

    I've got a set of second hand injectors coming, which cost me just £25 ea including the shipping. These apparently work fine, so I'll see if those improve things. I'm sure I've got one which isn't doing anything, one cuts in and out, the remaining two seem to be running the show. :eek:

    I'm still stunned that it did 40Mpg on the way home, spluttering and running like a dog.

    I've decided to change the fuel filter too, so as to eliminate that, and might even replace the crank position sensor, as they're cheap.
     
  12. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Your pictures are good enough thanks Arctic2. ;)

    I noticed that your fuel filter is nice and dry. Mine is all damp on the top. I'm wondering if it has a small fuel leak, which I believe could draw in air to the system?
    There's actually a small bubble visible in one of the clear fuel pipes too (ringed red). 20200718_173626.jpg 20200719_081242.jpg
     
  13. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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    HI John.
    It does look like that injector as been removed or at least undone for a reason? maybe copper washer replacement, or even the tip cleaned ?
     
  14. Arctic2

    Arctic2 Well-Known Member

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  15. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    All the injectors look like they've been tampered with.

    I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this cheap replacement set gets it running again.

    Is there a guide for the fuel filter change?

    Is there a way to change the filter without the priming pump?

    I have some hand pumps I think which might work, rather than buying another one.
     
  16. SWalker

    SWalker Active Member

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    I am confused, is the rule of thumb not #1 not beside the pullies? or has LR broke with tradition here?
    Mine has a slight misfire as you explain - i can still tow a caravan with it and the good wife does not notice.
    I have had some of my injectors changed but the codes were not updated - i still need to find out about the security thing. I am going to log a ticket with the scanner company as they do provide support, i just need to get better detail first. time is tight at the minute.
    Here is a pic of my stored codes and fitted codes - #2 matching #2 being second from the pullies?!?!


    Health to enjoy by the way

    Edit:
    I have pictures of the actual injectors ig=f yo uthink that would help you?
     
  17. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    I download Rave for Freelander 2 some while ago. Not sure where I got it from!! When I see sommat that might be useful in the future I bag it in!!

    Will have a look, could cd it to you if you can't find it on t'internet.
     
  18. Hippo

    Hippo Lord Hippo

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  19. parxuk

    parxuk Member

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    Nodge68
    Good luck with repairing the car. I hope it's a quick and cheap fix.
    With regards to swirl flaps (and you have kindly contributed to my thread) how/which method are you going to use to get rid of them?
    Thanks
     
  20. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I've got it thanks Andy. ;)
    Thanks to Hippo.;)
    Thanks. I'm hoping that a new filter and some replacement injectors will do the trick.

    Now the swirl flaps are an interesting one.

    I'm going to take the inlet manifold off, so I can assess the swirl flap situation. However I've seen another manifold and it looks easier to remove these flaps compared to the BMW ones. The DW12 flaps are simply plastic flaps that pass through a slotted shaft, much like a throttle plate on a carburettor. So it's just a case of removing the plastic flaps from the shaft, leaving the shaft in place and still able to rotate.

    This is the route I'll take, as I can't see any reason to remove the shaft.

    If my manifold is damaged, then I'd prefer to replace it with a later one without the flaps installed.
     
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