Freelander 2 Cutting Out

Still getting to grips with the Icarsoft LR2 scanner.
One of the selectable modes/tabs, shows an arrow similar to a "play icon"...and when pressed revealed several files stored on the device....unfortunately these files aren't dated, but scrolling through to the last file, this has a U3000 current control module fault logged.
This fault would correlate with the battery light symptoms, but could of been created when I disconnected the BCM plug on the battery or possibly the PWM plug on the alternator....
I think the file may of appeared when in diagnostic mode and pressed record function before driving, but am unsure at this point...

(NB: most online sources suggest the U3000 code usually has more numbers, e.g. U3000 - 35, where the last 2 digits elaborate on the fault found.....but the LR2 scanner named the fault as Current control Module.)

Diagnostic live data shows Lambda / oxygen sensor voltage appears not present @ 0.00v, continuous flatline during a short test drive....no fault code is logged?

All LR codes have 2 suffix numbers, which relates to the actual issue detected. Not all code reader show these numbers, which makes issue identification difficult.

The O2 sensor is for emissions control I believe, and shouldn't upset the running of the engine.

Mine started running like a box of spanners this morning, but it's low on fuel which might be the issue.

Thanks Nodge, the icar diagnostic refers specifically to a current control module. I'm assuming that's the voltage control module somewhere near the glove box?...though I still think there is a component fault, specifically effected by temperature....
As for starting, I've noticed mine always starts on the button and then its a flip of a coin as to it running nicely or with a rough, varying idle for about 30 - 60 seconds...tank half full...on these occasions I hear a kind of intermittent sipping noise coming somewhere around the HP pump/vacuum pump area. The tone of the revs dip and rise in time with these sipping noises?..
I have doubts about the integrity of the fuel pipe o rings, (even used silicone grease) ...as I see air in the clear fuel feed pipe, when someone revs the engine.. but rarely see any air being returned back to the filter from the pump or pressure rail?
Has a new bosch filter, but I'm nearly convinced its a dodgy copy (when compared to the bosch filter i replaced)

Mine also has a stream of bubbles in the clear fuel delivery pipe.

I've thought about replacing this pipe, but as it has the fuel temperature sensor on it too, it's quite expensive, especially if it makes no difference. Mine has a random misfire at higher power levels, which I'm sure is an injector failing. However as I seldom drive it at the power levels that causes the misfire, it's of no real concern.

The best fuel filter to use is a genuine or OE, which have Perflux on the top.

I'm thinking my throttle body is sticking, which would explain the lack of power and spluttering it was doing earlier.

Nodge68 said:

Mine also has a stream of bubbles in the clear fuel delivery pipe.

I've thought about replacing this pipe, but as it has the fuel temperature sensor on it too, it's quite expensive, especially if it makes no difference. Mine has a random misfire at higher power levels, which I'm sure is an injector failing. However as I seldom drive it at the power levels that causes the misfire, it's of no real concern.

The best fuel filter to use is a genuine or OE, which have Perflux on the top.

I'm thinking my throttle body is sticking, which would explain the lack of power and spluttering it was doing earlier.

Click to expand...

I eventually replaced the fuel temp pipe between the filter and pump, (with another off an evoque engine). and it made no difference.
The silicone grease did make a slight difference, as currently their are no fuel bubbles on tick over, but the "bosch filter", seemed identical to a low cost version, but with a white sticker saying bosch on the top, oh and some etching marks on the side of the filter case...The original bosch had a metal clip on the return fuel recirc valve and feels quality, unlike its replacement..The Ebay suppliers assured me that they make them like that and are in their bosch catalogue, but when I asked for proof they stopped corresponding..I will keep purflex in mind...cheers

With regards the throttle body, I've read a few posts on this site regarding its function...I was under the impression that the butterfly would shut when decelerating to slow the engine down quickly, but seems more attributed to EGR operation.....so far mine hasn't moved that much at all, but i can only drive the car until somewhere near running temp before the electrical fault cripples the car. Its a steeper learning curve than i anticipated, but the challenge of fixing the fault keeps me occupied..and hopefully sharing this fault will culminate in a resolution....thanks again Nodge re o2 sensor, Some digging reveals the sensor is indeed emissions and accurate fuelling..
I wondered if the disconnected vacuum swirl flap module might be confusing the car,,(has the mondeo flapless manifold),,might put that back on to give the ecu nothing to report

coltron1 said:

I wondered if the disconnected vacuum swirl flap module might be confusing the car,,(has the mondeo flapless manifold),,might put that back on to give the ecu

Click to expand...

Maybe. I left the flap solenoid connected, even though I removed the flaps, as SDD was giving an open circuit fault for the flap control solenoid.

Thanks for comment Nodge, I will re-attach the solenoid tomorrow

(PS The battery has now been replaced with an AGM and unfortunately the cutting out continues, but at least can be ruled out).

Thanks for comment Nodge, I'm fitting the solenoid today

For those interested in live data, here's a table of various sensors I think relevant, (feel free to advise if you would like to see other sensors)
The first value is cold running at idle - Once I recorded the sensor reading, I switched the car off, then restarted the car for a minute (repeatedly) until the fault occurred (@54 degrees c) Then took scanner readings again, so second value is warm running at idle but without throttle response and battery light illuminated.

Strangely, if i start the car from cold and continued warming up the car (without switching off and restarting) it will get up to temperature, (@70 + degrees) but at this point, the battery light will illuminate and throttle response disappears.


(fault condition i.e. no throttle/no charging/ bat-light illuminated)
---------------------------------Cold-----------------------------------------Warm
Coolant temp --------------24deg----------------------------------------54deg
Manifold pressure ---------106kpa -------------------------------------117kpa
Speed -----------------------752rpm-------------------------------------732rpm
Intake air temp -------------7deg ----------------------------------------15deg
Mass Air Flow --------------13.5g/s--------------------------------------15.6g/s
Throttle abs------------------83%------------------------------------------83%
Relative throttle position---0%-------------------------------------------0%
Acc pedal D-----------------8.2%(varying +/-1%)--------------------8.2%
Acc pedal E------------------7.5% (stable)----------------------------7.5%
Command throttle ----------100%-------------------------------------100%
Rail Pressure----------------25000kpa-------------------------------27000kpa
Lambda equivalence-------- 0.03------------------------------------ 0.107
O2 sensor---------------------0.000v ---------------------------------0.000v
Command EGR-------------31.8% (varying)---------------------- 0%
EGR error---------------------3.1% (varying)------------------------29%
Control mod voltage--------14.83v----------------------------------12.7v (alternator stops charging?))

The differences between warm and cold are evident between EGR mostly, but Rail pressure is slightly elevated, revs slightly dropped but more air pressure?
The engine seems to shake too (when the fault occurs), perhaps dropping a cylinder? / fighting alternator back EMF?,

Lambda equiveillance ratio and no volt condition seem spurious........
When the accelerator is pressed, the accelerator position sensors D and E rise regardless of engine temp, but the relative throttle remains at 0% when the fault occurs

Ok, I've tried disconnecting the Lambda sensor and ....doing this resulted in very rough idle and ....the car eventually lost throttle control
I've refitted the swirl flap solenoid....which has cleared the swirl runner fault code, but the car eventually lost throttle control..

Turning my attention to the injectors, using a mechanics stethoscope during "the fault", I've listened to each one in turn but they all appear to be ticking away nicely.

Throttle control and charging appear to re-instate themselves once the engine coolant temperature has dropped to 45 degrees......

coltron1 said:

Strangely, if i start the car from cold and continued warming up the car (without switching off and restarting) it will get up to temperature, (@70 + degrees) but at this point, the battery light will illuminate and throttle response disappears

Click to expand...

Have you checked under the air filter housing for chaffed wires where the harness goes over a side member seem?
Your issue is sounding very much like a wiring issue.

Thanks, I,ve seen the YouTube video.
My car has a clip attached to the inner wing /seem weld to hold the harness off that chafe area.
Todays job..is a revisit to the CPS /turbo area with a view to checking the harness / plugs...and an induction leak noise.…will post findings

(Can a wire short appear and disappear between temperature ranges??)

coltron1 said:

(Can a wire short appear and disappear between temperature ranges??)

Click to expand...

A break in the cable can change with temperature, as copper wire and PVC insulation have different expansion rates.

Nodge68 said:

A break in the cable can change with temperature, as copper wire and PVC insulation have different expansion rates.

Click to expand...

Thanks for comment Nodge.

Today I'm wondering if temperature is purely coincidental and the fault takes time to develop, but then the car won't start and run correctly until coolant temp is below 46 degrees

46degrees appears to be the transitional value between fault and no fault condition. Does the ECU switch modes or wants to stop the engine because its been ideling for a while...???

Today, I've been walking round the car, watching the scanner temperature...and trying to identify differences in engine noises when the fault kicks at around 46 degrees...at this point several things happen simultaneously:-

a) The engine shudders as though working against something, ( like an auto box being put into drive, though my car is manual and prop shaft disconnected)
b).The engine immediately sounds laboured and the revs drop to 710rpm for 4-5 seconds then the car compensates and returns revs up to 750rpm
c) A whirring noise begins ramping up (not the radiator fan but almost identical in sound)...possibly the turbo as i can hear the whirring at the tailpipe end too, but why would it spin at all without throttle command??
d) Air sipping noises (similar to drinking a very hot cup of tea) at 4-6 second intervals near the injector pump, (I mentioned in earlier posts) - instantly disappear..

At around the same point, today a gush of air momentarily rushed through the clear pipe, (at idle) followed by the sound of pressure being released...somewhere..(similar to the sound of a truck between gears).....just coincidental?, ?...I,m leaving the filler cap off on the next test.....just in case.

Decided to unplug the turbo actuator this morning. Jacked the car up, (axle stand under the control arm bush) removed the front left wheel, unplugged the turbo actuator (thumb and finger clips either side of the plug)

I have a spare turbo actuator so I ( carefully) jammed it between the strut and brake pipe and plugged that in (to observe the actuator at different temperatures)
Plugged in the scanner, started the car (at idle) and watched the temp sensor rise....while keeping an eye on the turbo actuator hanging off the strut....at 47 degrees the actuator hadn't budged so switched off the car and then re-started expecting the fault to appear.........no fault appeared,
Re started with no problems so waited till 50 degrees and switched off the car, restarted with no problems,,,no erroneous noises either...
At 65 degrees.....exactly the same thing..........

I think I can safely assume the fault lays with the actuator fitted to the turbo or possibly the wiring to it..

..I call this a result.

Unplugging components can be a good way of fault finding

I will need to replace the actuator fitted to the turbo to confirm, (actuator or wiring), fingers crossed

Turbo actuator now replaced bout 30 minutes work

(managed from underneath the car, held on with 3 hex bolts (10mm socket) and a small link circlip. I also removed visible heat shield bolt for access to some of the bolts)

Went on a hilly test drive of around 3 miles up hill/down dale..slight boost leak identified, but otherwise fine..(the engine didn't miss a beat or lack power)

1 or both front wheel bearings (possible pto?) need replacing as the din was pretty bad, but I suppose that's what you get when buying a none-runner haha

The cutting out appears totally sorted . all down to a slack pinned CPS plug and a dodgy turbo actuator and taking 2 months on and off to sort.....Main dealer would of had a field day

...thanks to the forum (Nodge & Grumpygel) for comments received...

coltron1 said:

The cutting out appears totally sorted . all down to a slack pinned CPS plug and a dodgy turbo actuator
...thanks to the forum (Nodge & Grumpygel) for comments received...

Click to expand...

Glad it seems sorted.
From memory, you need to have the turbo actuator limit positions programmed into the ECM, or it can cause early failure of the actuator.