Freelander 2 buying advice

Not if your careful. Take trim off from around sunroof if you have one, rear interior light retaining screw and you should be able to get in there. Two plastic scrivets holding it in.
Unplug take out and dry out. Overnight in bowl of rice sorted mine. Seal it before putting back.
Really upto you, the more trim you take out the easier it is to access, and of course less chance of damage.

Great thanks. I thought it couldn’t be receiver if the locks sounded like they wanted to move but didn’t when I pressed the fob. It has been raining a lot so could be issue.

I had same issue, initially thought it was battery in fob. But once dried out all was fine.

Shedload said:

I had same issue, initially thought it was battery in fob. But once dried out all was fine.

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Just had a quick look. I can just about get a hand in the but not sure I will be able to get anything on the screw head but I will try.

Seems all dry on and around the box though

U could try a hair dryer in there without taking it out, but the screws are plastic so you could use a pick to prise them out.

Just to update you. I had a test drive. I was very impressed overall with the drive and pull of the engine (I have been in a d2 for a year so perhaps that accounts for it). The ride is a little pitchy through the corners but I put that down to the steering which compared to the d2 is very sensitive.

Very quiet inside. No knocks or whines.

Service history is being pieced together as I have some receipts but as things are in storage I am speaking to the garage direct.

The haldex was serviced last June with an oil change but no evidence of ptu, gearbox or diff oil changes so just waiting to check with garage on that.

I will keep you posted.

new to all this said:

Just to update you. I had a test drive. I was very impressed overall with the drive and pull of the engine (I have been in a d2 for a year so perhaps that accounts for it). The ride is a little pitchy through the corners but I put that down to the steering which compared to the d2 is very sensitive.

Very quiet inside. No knocks or whines.

Service history is being pieced together as I have some receipts but as things are in storage I am speaking to the garage direct.

The haldex was serviced last June with an oil change but no evidence of ptu, gearbox or diff oil changes so just waiting to check with garage on that.

I will keep you posted.

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The steering is beautiful on the FL2, it's precise quick and reasonably well waited. Once you've driven an FL2 for a while, other cars steering feels sluggish and underwhelming. I get this whenever I drive the wife's Audi A5, where the steering is slow and generally unresponsive.

Make sure all the driveline components are quiet, then get the fluids replaced if not done already.

Shedload said:

Ask a question about almost any car and you will be met with a range of answers, suggestions and anecdotes.
Give it a good look over and make your own mind up. You know a lot of it's history so that is a good start.
Buy because you want, not because it is available.
And if you haven't already, buy yourself a decent code reader.

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Just a quick update.

I’m still thinking about it. Test drive went well. No apparent issues. The Haldex unit was serviced last December so that is something. Aside from that and the annual engine oil service, it doesn’t look as though the other fluids have been looked at.

The timing belt is due to be changed next week and then I need to make a decision.

I have been relatively lucky I think with my D2 (aside from the rear chassis being replaced) but it is a bit hard to live with at times around town and long journeys. Going for a F2 still feels a bit of a leap as although it is more modern, it is still 14 years old and not one I suspect I will be able to do much maintenance on myself.

new to all this said:

Just a quick update.

I’m still thinking about it. Test drive went well. No apparent issues. The Haldex unit was serviced last December so that is something. Aside from that and the annual engine oil service, it doesn’t look as though the other fluids have been looked at.

The timing belt is due to be changed next week and then I need to make a decision.

I have been relatively lucky I think with my D2 (aside from the rear chassis being replaced) but it is a bit hard to live with at times around town and long journeys. Going for a F2 still feels a bit of a leap as although it is more modern, it is still 14 years old and not one I suspect I will be able to do much maintenance on myself.

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There's plenty of DIY maintenance options for the FL2. They need oil changes like any car, and the AWD parts aren't anything special to maintain. Once done the timing belt is good for 150k or 10 years. Brakes aren't anything more complicated than a D2, the suspension is maintenance free.
The 2 vehicles are chalk and cheese, but the FL2 is the better vehicle for modern traffic.

Thanks that is really helpful. I think I have just got comfortable/resigned at times with the D2 so I forget or ignore the fact that issues will always be round the corner. All we can do is keep on top of maintenance.

new to all this said:

Thanks that is really helpful. I think I have just got comfortable/resigned at times with the D2 so I forget or ignore the fact that issues will always be round the corner. All we can do is keep on top of maintenance.

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I have also been reading that ptu and diff oil changes are more labour intensive as there are no drain plugs. Is that true? How would you go about doing an oil change at home? Thanks

new to all this said:

I have also been reading that ptu and diff oil changes are more labour intensive as there are no drain plugs. Is that true? How would you go about doing an oil change at home? Thanks

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That's true there are no drain plugs. Most DIY owners use a simple 12V suction pump to remove the old oil, and pump in the fresh oil. It's only a job that needs doing every 3 years or so. The Haldex is best serviced by removing it, as all the passageways need cleaning out. It takes less than 2 hours to remove, clean, refit and refill the Haldex.

… if you’re not having the FL2, let me know!!!

Freddie17 said:

… if you’re not having the FL2, let me know!!!

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Are you after one Freddie?
I've seen a couple with engine failures recently (both skipped 10 year timing belt changes), which would be perfect for an EV conversion, if an EV conversion on one wasn't so hard.
Keep an eye out for something similar, and replace or repair the engine.

I’m not desperate - Freddie has had a lot of work done on him over the last 12 months - far more than I will ever get back, but he is at a level I now trust as fully working, capable and how it ‘should’ be.
That said - I’ve always got one eye open for another (relatively) cheap weekender.
I just think that a known FL2, with the sort of reliable history suggested available, needs a close look and deserves to be cherished.

I’d love to have the time, money (and much more know-how) to do an EV conversion on an FL1 as a project, but that’s way beyond me. General diy - yes. What Ali has done… nope!

Never thought about the replacement engine route on an FL2 - nice one, cheers.

Freddie17 said:

I’m not desperate - Freddie has had a lot of work done on him over the last 12 months - far more than I will ever get back, but he is at a level I now trust as fully working, capable and how it ‘should’ be.
That said - I’ve always got one eye open for another (relatively) cheap weekender.
I just think that a known FL2, with the sort of reliable history suggested available, needs a close look and deserves to be cherished.

I’d love to have the time, money (and much more know-how) to do an EV conversion on an FL1 as a project, but that’s way beyond me. General diy - yes. What Ali has done… nope!

Never thought about the replacement engine route on an FL2 - nice one, cheers.

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I agree. I have know the fl2 for the last 4 years and it hasn’t really ever missed a beat and hardly been off road. All the positive messages are making me consider it. I was thinking of a new defender as my 200tdi isn’t a daily driver but driving in the cold this morning made me think what it would be like in a new td5 defender (not to mention the fact I would have to spend close to three times the price of a fl2 for a decent one). My 200tdi is also a cosmetic project so will eventually end up in good shape like any td5 you see for sale - no rush.

A defender is much more likely to be stolen compared to a Freelander, so insurance is generally less expensive, as well as the RFL.

Nodge68 said:

A defender is much more likely to be stolen compared to a Freelander, so insurance is generally less expensive, as well as the RFL.

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Yes a constant worry. Not sure you are right on RFL. The fl2 is £395 which is same as td5 2005 90.

new to all this said:

Yes a constant worry. Not sure you are right on RFL. The fl2 is £395 which is same as td5 2005 90.

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That's quite reasonable compared to some quotes I've see on other LR models recently.
My insurance is a bit less, but that's more down to location than the vehicle. I was surprised that the RFL was £80 less than my previous FL1, but it seems that RFL cost does vary a bit from vehicle to vehicle, which is odd.

Nodge68 said:

A defender is much more likely to be stolen compared to a Freelander, so insurance is generally less expensive, as well as the RFL.

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+1
I fancy a defender often - until I remember all the horror stories of rust and leaks. And rust. And I don’t have the time to do a full resto. Nor the money. Nor the skill set! My wife would fancy one too - because ‘Vera’ has one (on the tv show) and they ‘look fun’. Then I show her the interior of one!
With my sensible head on, there are much better options for my money… they are ridiculously over-priced. The defender market is just crazy… which sadly makes them targets for thieves.

If I had to choose another LR, and couldn’t have an FL/2, for my money in my circumstances, I think I would currently choose a well-looked after disco 4. That said, a FL or FL2 wins for me hands down at present.