James Hardy
New Member
- Posts
- 1
- Location
- Sheffield
So, this is my first post on here, so not sure if this is common knowledge. Just wanted to share my experience, and hopefully help people out with the solution.
My 2007 Freelander 2 developed what I would describe as a misfire. It would happen probably once a week, where the engine seemed to shut down for maybe half a second, before jumping back into life and carrying on as if nothing had happened. It would happen completely at random.
It went on for a period of maybe nine months, until last month, it got really bad. It'd misfire through the rev range quite badly, and repeatedly.
Spoke to a guy that works at the dealers and he came out to take a look.
Prior to him coming, he said to remove the inlet manifold and make sure the swirl flaps aren't falling to pieces and jamming valves etc. Did this, and found the flaps to have been removed by a previous owner - happy days.
He connected the computer and it hadn't recorded a fault code. So we went for a drive with the live data connected, and conveniently, it misfired. Unfortunately, nothing was obvious on the live data to pinpoint the issue. One thing we did find was that when I had the battery replaced months earlier, they had left both terminals loose. He tightened them and left me to see if it made a difference. Sure enough, the misfire continued.
A week later I went to see him, and he talked to me about the trigger ring. He said it felt like the engine was shutting down. He said it cant be injectors or fuel pump because it wouldn't run as good as it does. It cant be a sensor because it would log a code and be detected on the computer.
So the Crank position sensor detects its signal from the trigger ting. The trigger ring is a circular ring on the end of the crank (behind the crank aux pulley). It provides a magnetic signal to the CPS when the engine is at TDC, so the injectors know when to inject.
There are two types of trigger ring. there is my type, which is an interference fit on the end of the crank, or there is a free sliding type. Both are keyed to the crank shaft with a woodruff key.
The plan was to nick a trigger ring off another car and try it on mine, but because mine is the interference fit type, removing it would destroy it. So we resorted to simply cleaning the surface. Using a solvent aerosol cleaner, we gave it a thorough clean - I was amazed how much crap came off it! Because the ring is next to the timing belt, and is fairly open to the elements, it gets covered in crap, and can pic up metallic particles due to its magnetism, screwing with the CPS signal.
So this was last Friday. Its now Thursday and it has run faultlessly since. I hope I'm not speaking too soon, but I'm confident its sorted.
I have read numerous posts regarding a similar issue. Some saying its a known fault that LR are aware of and there is no fix. Some talking about replacing injectors and other very expensive jobs. I urge you to try this first before spending any money.
The job is straight forward: Remove OSF wheel. Remove sh!t shield at front of wheel arch. Remove crank aux pulley (Impact gun required, or preferred). Remove lower timing belt cover. Remove CPS. The trigger wheel will now be visible. If you have the sliding type, simply slide the wheel off and give it a good clean (don't loose your woodruff key). If its the interference fit like mine, simply clean in position while you get somebody to rotate the engine for you (replace crank pulley bolt and turn with a large breaker bar).
I hope this helps somebody. I was feeling pretty gutted when it got bad, especially when there were no codes logged. I haven't seen any mention of the trigger ring online, so hopefully there are a few people looking for a fix to this issue. If I haven't spoken too soon, this is a seriously simple fix for an issue that seems very big at first glance.
Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures, so cant share anything to show you, but its simple and obvious enough.
Cheers.
My 2007 Freelander 2 developed what I would describe as a misfire. It would happen probably once a week, where the engine seemed to shut down for maybe half a second, before jumping back into life and carrying on as if nothing had happened. It would happen completely at random.
It went on for a period of maybe nine months, until last month, it got really bad. It'd misfire through the rev range quite badly, and repeatedly.
Spoke to a guy that works at the dealers and he came out to take a look.
Prior to him coming, he said to remove the inlet manifold and make sure the swirl flaps aren't falling to pieces and jamming valves etc. Did this, and found the flaps to have been removed by a previous owner - happy days.
He connected the computer and it hadn't recorded a fault code. So we went for a drive with the live data connected, and conveniently, it misfired. Unfortunately, nothing was obvious on the live data to pinpoint the issue. One thing we did find was that when I had the battery replaced months earlier, they had left both terminals loose. He tightened them and left me to see if it made a difference. Sure enough, the misfire continued.
A week later I went to see him, and he talked to me about the trigger ring. He said it felt like the engine was shutting down. He said it cant be injectors or fuel pump because it wouldn't run as good as it does. It cant be a sensor because it would log a code and be detected on the computer.
So the Crank position sensor detects its signal from the trigger ting. The trigger ring is a circular ring on the end of the crank (behind the crank aux pulley). It provides a magnetic signal to the CPS when the engine is at TDC, so the injectors know when to inject.
There are two types of trigger ring. there is my type, which is an interference fit on the end of the crank, or there is a free sliding type. Both are keyed to the crank shaft with a woodruff key.
The plan was to nick a trigger ring off another car and try it on mine, but because mine is the interference fit type, removing it would destroy it. So we resorted to simply cleaning the surface. Using a solvent aerosol cleaner, we gave it a thorough clean - I was amazed how much crap came off it! Because the ring is next to the timing belt, and is fairly open to the elements, it gets covered in crap, and can pic up metallic particles due to its magnetism, screwing with the CPS signal.
So this was last Friday. Its now Thursday and it has run faultlessly since. I hope I'm not speaking too soon, but I'm confident its sorted.
I have read numerous posts regarding a similar issue. Some saying its a known fault that LR are aware of and there is no fix. Some talking about replacing injectors and other very expensive jobs. I urge you to try this first before spending any money.
The job is straight forward: Remove OSF wheel. Remove sh!t shield at front of wheel arch. Remove crank aux pulley (Impact gun required, or preferred). Remove lower timing belt cover. Remove CPS. The trigger wheel will now be visible. If you have the sliding type, simply slide the wheel off and give it a good clean (don't loose your woodruff key). If its the interference fit like mine, simply clean in position while you get somebody to rotate the engine for you (replace crank pulley bolt and turn with a large breaker bar).
I hope this helps somebody. I was feeling pretty gutted when it got bad, especially when there were no codes logged. I haven't seen any mention of the trigger ring online, so hopefully there are a few people looking for a fix to this issue. If I haven't spoken too soon, this is a seriously simple fix for an issue that seems very big at first glance.
Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures, so cant share anything to show you, but its simple and obvious enough.
Cheers.
